Problem with 686

[jwolford]

What've I got going on? I have a brand new 686 6" I took out for the first time (after first getting a trigger job). Can pull the trigger back when cylinder is empty. However, when I was shooting it, it'd hang up and not go back all the way. Took it back to the gunsmith who'd done the trigger job for his opinion. The cylinder locked up so bad he had to tap it to get it loose. The gunshmith put it back to stock. I called S&W who tried to tell me it was probably grit. Really? Anyway, they sent a mailing label and it's on its way to the factory. I'm just curious what y'all think they'll find?

 

[Zipdog]

Who worked on it last?

 

[Waywatcher]

Ugh.

Does it work in its factory settings? If the answer is yes, the S&W is not the problem here.

 

[Helderberg]

I have owned three 686's and have had a great experience every time. My current one is a 4" and it runs like a top. The difference between my three and yours is the gunsmith you used. I would not be so fast to blame S&W and I hope they can sort out your gun and fix what ever is wrong.
Good luck, Frank.

 

[CatSnipah]

Were there any problems before the trigger job?

If not, you might start with the gunsmith or his work.

 

[Kernel Crittenden]

There are a number of mechanical irregularities that can cause the problems you describe. Some pertaining to a trigger job, some that don't. I had a similar problem in a M686-4 recently that was caused by some "gunk" (grit, maybe?) in the locking bolt recess (the place where the tip of the ejector rod rests at lock-up). Locked-up/froze-up my gun big time!

 

[jwolford]

It's a brand new gun. Fired for the first time today so I don't see grit being a problem, and I'd cleaned it before going out. Waywatcher, the problem remained after the gunsmith returned it to original. He only had put in a lighter spring and backed off the mainspring screw. He'd left in the original mainspring because the Wolff spring was too light, he said. One interesting thing I noticed on the face of the cylinder. Two cylinders didn't have residue--I think the same two that were hanging up when I was shooting it.

When I first picked it up, he expressed concern about the gun. He asked if it for sure was new. He said it was dry and wasn't working like a new gun. He oiled it up pretty good.

 

[Black Knight]

I have a 686-1 that was not sent back for the modification. I carried that revolver as my duty weapon (armed private security patrol) in the late 1980s and early 1990s. It performed flawlessly every time. It saved my bacon more than once. If I were allowed to carry any handgun of my choice on duty (Dept. of the Army Civilian Police Officer) it would be my 686-1.

 

[2hawk]

A loose ejector rod (partially unscrewed) can cause binding, and prevent the cylinder from swinging out. Did you check it? Did you check the action of the gun before the trigger job?

I can understand your disappointment, but it seems like you might have jumped the gun (sorry/pun) with the trigger work, and failed to adequately inspect your firearm, either before, during or after shooting. S&W will make it right, I'm sure, but I would be a little suspicious of a "gunsmith" that could not properly diagnose the issue that you're having. Add to that, you said he backed off the mainspring screw- that is just not right, it is supposed to be tight. It is not a trigger weight adjustment screw.

Good Luck, keep us posted.

 

[Waywatcher]

It's a brand new gun. Fired for the first time today so I don't see grit being a problem, and I'd cleaned it before going out. Waywatcher, the problem remained after the gunsmith returned it to original. He only had put in a lighter spring and backed off the mainspring screw. He'd left in the original mainspring because the Wolff spring was too light, he said. One interesting thing I noticed on the face of the cylinder. Two cylinders didn't have residue--I think the same two that were hanging up when I was shooting it.

When I first picked it up, he expressed concern about the gun. He asked if it for sure was new. He said it was dry and wasn't working like a new gun. He oiled it up pretty good.

Did it work before he got his hands on it? Backing off the mainspring strain screw is not part of a legitimate trigger job.

 

[jwolford]

Did it work before he got his hands on it? Backing off the mainspring strain screw is not part of a legitimate trigger job.

I'm suddenly losing confidence in an otherwise highly respected gunsmith. He comes highly recommended.

 

[686-380]

Was the problem like Mine?: http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-re...dy-357-158-gr-xtp-ammo-jams-my-new-686-a.html

 

[jwolford]

... it seems like you might have jumped the gun (sorry/pun) with the trigger work.... Add to that, you said he backed off the mainspring screw- that is just not right, it is supposed to be tight. It is not a trigger weight adjustment screw.

Good Luck, keep us posted.

You rite. I did jump the gun. He did my 4" 686 and it's working great. Since the problem still exists, I feel comfortable sending it to S&W. Just concerned that he didn't follow standard protocol re the mainspring screw.

 

[jwolford]

Was the problem like Mine?: http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-re...dy-357-158-gr-xtp-ammo-jams-my-new-686-a.html

Wow! That's quite a thread. I wonder if there's a way to "favorite"
threads like that.

 

[Kernel Crittenden]

Is it possible the gunsmith took the side plate off, put the wrong plate screw back where the yoke retention screw should go? It's a common mistake.

Regarding my M686 that had the locking bolt cease up. It was working fine until I lubricated it. Shot a little CLP into the weep hole, then problems. Probably some little bur that broke loose, left over from when it was new.

 

[derek45auto]

Sounds like you need to replace the gunsmith.

I always test fire new guns before changing anything.

 

[jimsguns]

Sound like S&W was pretty generous to send you a free mailing label and warranty a new gun botched up by a gunsmith.

 

[mauiblue]

Definitely shoot a new firearm prior to changing the original factory setup. BTW I've been learning how to work on my own firearms for a while now. I don't have any gunsmiths I know of locally and understanding how to detail strip, troubleshoot, and replace parts on my firearms is satisfying and rewarding.

 

[rwsmith]

Double +1

I would be a little suspicious of a "gunsmith" that could not properly diagnose the issue that you're having. Add to that, you said he backed off the mainspring screw- that is just not right, it is supposed to be tight. It is not a trigger weight adjustment screw.

He can't be a real gunsmith. He must be a modern day gunsmith, otherwise known as a 'bubbasmith'. Both of 2Hawks comments are excellent. Any gunsmith should know that the strain screw is supposed to be tight and a lighter trigger is achieved in other ways. That plus the fact that he couldn't figure out himself what the problem was even when it was returned to factory spec. It might be grit. Ok, so clean the grit.

 

[rwsmith]

Yes, the OP needs to tell us....

Wow! That's quite a thread. I wonder if there's a way to "favorite"
threads like that.

Please tell us what the 'dash' number is after the model number.