Retired LTC USAR
US Veteran
So from what I have seen, if you use a progressive re-loader, when do you clean your brass, or do you, since you de-prime and prime it in the loader?
Progressive reloading set-ups.
- Thread starter Retired LTC USAR
- Start date
Tumble your brass before you begin the reloading process. Clean brass is less wear and tear on Tungsten Carbine sizer dies. I don't use a progressive for any rifle caliber. Only for calibers that use tungsten carbide sizers that don't require any lubrication. Dillon does make TC sizer dies for 308 and 223 but these still require some lubrication or at least it is recommended. I have one for .223 but don't load that on a progressive anyway. But pistol calibers do not need lube. One exception might be when using new 30 Carbine military brass which although it is not a pistol caliber is straight wall and does use a TC sizer. With that while the sizer is a TC, the first time it is cycled the primer pocket crimp needs to be removed so I would do that first in a single stage press and then I would tumble it.
AveragEd
Member
I clean my brass before doing anything to it. The only thing that doesn't get polished is the primer pockets and tests have proven that dirty pockets don't compromise handgun accuracy.
I suppose that if you aren't using carbide dies, you might want to remove the cases for lube removal before continuing after resizing.
Ed
I suppose that if you aren't using carbide dies, you might want to remove the cases for lube removal before continuing after resizing.
Ed
Owly
Member
No big deal if you use a vibratory media tumbler. All brass goes in the tumbler with the spent primer in place.
The real question is, when do you clean primer pockets?
The real question is, when do you clean primer pockets?
zonker5
Member
First I tumble, then resize and de-prime.
Next I clean the primer pockets, I like 'em clean and it is a good time to look the cases over for cracks or dents.
Then I prime then and load 'em up.
Next I clean the primer pockets, I like 'em clean and it is a good time to look the cases over for cracks or dents.
Then I prime then and load 'em up.
OKFC05
Member
Are we talking mission essential case cleaning for handguns or making the brass look like new?
I'm a mission essential loader, so the sorted brass goes into walnut hulls with a spoon of polish, and the vibratory cleaner runs about an hour. Then into the Dillon, and ready for the range.
This assumes normal brass without mud or severe tarnish.
The brass will be clean but not particularly shiny.
Now if you want the brass to be parade ground "pass in review condition", decap after cleaning, then go back into corn cob with a good dose of polish, and run it until you smile. The disadvantage is you now have too get al the corncob bits out of the primer pocket.
OR you can really get radical with steel pins and wet clean the decapped brass until it is surgically clean inside and out.
At any rate, you do need to clean it to get the carbide bits and any dirt off it before you put it in a loader. And get all the cleaning done before you put it in the progressive press, because you want to go straight through the loading, which speed and efficiency is the whole point of the progressive.
How OCD do you want to be? ENJOY!
I'm a mission essential loader, so the sorted brass goes into walnut hulls with a spoon of polish, and the vibratory cleaner runs about an hour. Then into the Dillon, and ready for the range.
This assumes normal brass without mud or severe tarnish.
The brass will be clean but not particularly shiny.
Now if you want the brass to be parade ground "pass in review condition", decap after cleaning, then go back into corn cob with a good dose of polish, and run it until you smile. The disadvantage is you now have too get al the corncob bits out of the primer pocket.
OR you can really get radical with steel pins and wet clean the decapped brass until it is surgically clean inside and out.
At any rate, you do need to clean it to get the carbide bits and any dirt off it before you put it in a loader. And get all the cleaning done before you put it in the progressive press, because you want to go straight through the loading, which speed and efficiency is the whole point of the progressive.
How OCD do you want to be? ENJOY!
I tumble my brass (with spent primers) in corncob media, a little splash (at most a cap full) of mineral spirits speeds up the process and helps keep the dust down. I've never cleaned a primer pocket.
Cleaned brass with spent primer goes in station 1, a loaded cartridge pops out station 5.
The corncob dust makes a decent lube when the case goes through the resizer.
Cleaned brass with spent primer goes in station 1, a loaded cartridge pops out station 5.
The corncob dust makes a decent lube when the case goes through the resizer.
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Shoot "em".......Dump "em" the tumbler......Run "em" through the Dillon.....Go back shooting!....
Some times I even run the loaded product back through the tumbler for a final polish/clean.........
Some times I even run the loaded product back through the tumbler for a final polish/clean.........
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fredj338
Member
Always clean your brass before sizing for best results. Either dry tumble or even just rolling them in a damp towel, but dont put dirty brass in your expensive dies. I don't clean primer pockets, even on my precision rifle stuff, just doesnt make a diff.
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MyDads38
Member
I use a rotary/ss pin wet tumbler. Brass is deprimed first before tumbling. Brass comes out better than new, including clean primer pockets. Cleaned brass is stored by caliber and headstamp in plastic containers until needed for reloading. I'm pretty anal about my process, but that's just me 
epj
Absent Comrade
Been reloading for more than 40 years. I've never cleaned a primer pocket.
Amp
Member
I tumble clean my empty brass as part of inspection before reloading.
Sometimes you find bad cases or wrong size to separate out.
I have cleaned primer pockets but not on a regular schedule. That is more for 7 TCU loads and not on a progressive loader.
Sometimes you find bad cases or wrong size to separate out.
I have cleaned primer pockets but not on a regular schedule. That is more for 7 TCU loads and not on a progressive loader.
I tumble with corn cob and lizard bedding, spray a little lube inside a gallon zip lock bag, dump in the brass and tumble it by hand a little and then into the Dillon. the little bit of lube that gets on the brass makes sizing quite a bit easier, especially with larger cases.
ArchAngelCD
Moderator, SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
I always clean my brass before loading on any style press.
Boogsawaste
Member
If you want to de prime before you tumble, simply use a universal de capping die. This way you don't run dirty brass through your sizing dies.
I used to do this when I first started and then run the brass through my wet tumbler with stainless pins. I have since removed the pins and have just water in there. Doesn't get the insides squeaky but they are clean enough. Saves me time and shoulder pain of de priming first.
I used to do this when I first started and then run the brass through my wet tumbler with stainless pins. I have since removed the pins and have just water in there. Doesn't get the insides squeaky but they are clean enough. Saves me time and shoulder pain of de priming first.
fredj338
Member
If you add some NuFinish to the dry media, you can probably stop using case lube with carbides dies. Makes them just a tiny bit slicker.
joeintexas
US Veteran
Tumble in walnut media with a used dryer sheet. Deprime, resize, flare,reprime, load and shoot. Never have cleaned a handgun primer pocket.
Just doesn't seem necessary.
Just doesn't seem necessary.
STORMINORMAN
Member
Reloading time is the perfect opportunity to let your inner OCD shine, I would opine...
Like a really good paint job, the proof is in the prep, IMHO. I deprime all calibers with a LEE depriming die set up on an old RCBS Jr. press I picked up for a song at a garage sale: I wash the brass in a little Dawn 1st, deprime, run any range brass through the SS pins in the tumbler, then an hour or so in a vibratory tumbler with the treated walnut media (which basically will now virtually last forever), inspect and hand prime with the RCBS Universal tool. Flare (just enough!) and ready to go for powder and bullet seating. 90% of the time with straight wall calibers the need a serious crimp is only needed for hotter magnum loads in 357 & 44 magnums.
The LEE FCD's with the carbide ring are certainly worth their inclusion ( 3 vs. 4 die sets ) IMHO , but only a slight taper crimp will usually suffice for 380, 9mm, 38's and 40 S&W in my humble experience. The Hornady Custom dies are great for this as far as I'm concerned.
It may be OCD but... All my reloads chamber and fire in all calibers I reload and in all my guns and in every other gun my friends happen to bring along when we hit the range: I'm not in it for production but for FUN!
CHEERS!
Like a really good paint job, the proof is in the prep, IMHO. I deprime all calibers with a LEE depriming die set up on an old RCBS Jr. press I picked up for a song at a garage sale: I wash the brass in a little Dawn 1st, deprime, run any range brass through the SS pins in the tumbler, then an hour or so in a vibratory tumbler with the treated walnut media (which basically will now virtually last forever), inspect and hand prime with the RCBS Universal tool. Flare (just enough!) and ready to go for powder and bullet seating. 90% of the time with straight wall calibers the need a serious crimp is only needed for hotter magnum loads in 357 & 44 magnums.
The LEE FCD's with the carbide ring are certainly worth their inclusion ( 3 vs. 4 die sets ) IMHO , but only a slight taper crimp will usually suffice for 380, 9mm, 38's and 40 S&W in my humble experience. The Hornady Custom dies are great for this as far as I'm concerned.
It may be OCD but... All my reloads chamber and fire in all calibers I reload and in all my guns and in every other gun my friends happen to bring along when we hit the range: I'm not in it for production but for FUN!
CHEERS!
daniel lawecki
Member
I tumble all my brass with primers in the case. To keep dust down while tumbling use a dryer sheet anti static. The wife never knows where they go so fast. I load rifle brass on my progressive press. I use Hornady case prep spray works for me.
