Proper use of RENAISSANCE Wax

I like the cleaner and wax a lot. I'm a little afraid to use the cleaner on something like this, as I don't really know what kind of level of abrasives it has.


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I have a black Marauder with 92,000 miles on it. I had it out the other day and saw that little irritating whitish spot on the trunk where a bird must have crapped on it a few years ago and it was always a little oxidized-looking. So I rubbed a little Ren Wax on it, buffed it out, and it was like new again!

Then I ran around the car, buffing out the little white spots here & there. It's a little expensive to wax your car with, but for touching ups, it's great.
 
I started using Ren. Wax after reading much about it here a number of months back. Like many others I've used it on blued guns like my model 10 - it vastly improved the appearance of the bluing. It also worked well on my nickeled 22-4 since it imparts a fingerprint and fouling resistant quality to it. It especially works well on the Ahrends grips - it brings out the wood grain and gives them a slightly "grippier" feel.

Once you've used it on firearms, give it a try on other things like the silverware, antique clocks or as Barb said the car - it gives a subtle yet impressive sheen to all sorts of other things.
 
10 years later….

Does it keep polished stainless from finger printing?

Now that this thread is 10 years old…how has it held up?
 
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Do you think you could use it on sterling or silverplate?

Yes. my wife makes jewelry as a hobby and uses it there - it's where I first heard about it. Works great on many things. With most of the best museums using it to protect the items in their displays, it has a good track record
 
Not ren wax but the Johnson’s paste wax in the yellow can. About $3 per can at the grocery store and one can has lasted me about 15 years. The really great advantage of waxing guns is how very easily they can be cleaned after shooting. And yes I wax it all: wood, stainless, plastic, alloy, blued, whatever.
 
I've used Ren-Wax on the oak table that we play cards on. I ran out of Johnson Wax so I used what I had. Works great
 
I use it on any of my blued handguns; 27-2, Colt Python and a blued WC CQB. A little goes a long way.

I also use it on my guitars, including a 55 year old Epiphone.

My guns are in the safe in the basement where it’s cooler. I’ll warm the surface up a bit with a hair dryer before application. Goes on more even.
 




Here's my 1966 19-2, before and after.

I "polished" it first with Flitz and one of their microfiber polishing cloths and repeated the procedure with Renaissance Wax.

The two together impress me every time I use them.
 
I can't remember reading a post from a member who has had a bad or unsatisfactory experience with Renaissance Wax.

During my twenty years of service in the United States Marine Corps we were always taught to finish our weapons cleaning with a light coat of oil. Now, I remove any oil from the cleaning stage using isopropyl alcohol, then I apply Renaissance Wax and lightly polish with a soft cotton cloth. I also apply a small amount of wax on the underside of the grips (stocks) where the stocks contact the metal.

The results for the past eight years has been outstanding. No rust anywhere, and I continuously check closely, just as my drill instructors taught us.

"Renaissance Wax is a brand of microcrystalline wax polish used in antique restoration and museum conservation. Most safely used to polish and conserve metal objects, it is also used on gemstones and such organic materials wood, ivory, and tortoiseshell." Johnson's paste wax has a petroleum base. Both are great products for all of your firearms and accessories.

Bill
 
Carried a 4 inch model 19 for the DPS. Used Birchwood Casey gun stock was on the metal. Same shine as ren wax. Try it.
 
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