Properly indexing cylinder?
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Mountainbear
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The only way to prevent a turn line is to have a gunsmith tune the gun to where the cylinder stop returns (pops up) in the lead in to the cylinder notch (that little indent leading into the notch). Its a long process, and unless you're very particular about your gun's aesthetics, don't worry. Every S&W I've ever seen that's been shot has a turn line...
Double-O-Dave
US Veteran
Every S&W I've ever seen that's been shot has a turn line...
It really isn't even necessary to fire a revolver to creat a turn line - just cycling the action can cause a turn line in very short order. Therefore, if you don't want a turn line on your revolver, don't cycle the action, and when you are closing the cylinder (carefully), you should push back on the cylinder release to help ease the cylinder back into the frame window. I've seen some stainless steel revolvers that gunsmiths (I believe it was Magnaport in Mt. Clemens, MI) that highly polished the rear 1/3rd of the cylinder and this helped reduce the turn, or drag, line on the cylinder. These revolvers also had custom trigger work as well.
Best of luck,
Dave
It really isn't even necessary to fire a revolver to creat a turn line - just cycling the action can cause a turn line in very short order. Therefore, if you don't want a turn line on your revolver, don't cycle the action, and when you are closing the cylinder (carefully), you should push back on the cylinder release to help ease the cylinder back into the frame window. I've seen some stainless steel revolvers that gunsmiths (I believe it was Magnaport in Mt. Clemens, MI) that highly polished the rear 1/3rd of the cylinder and this helped reduce the turn, or drag, line on the cylinder. These revolvers also had custom trigger work as well.
Best of luck,
Dave
A properly tuned revolver will have a turn line.
Modifying the cylinder lock to rise late at the indent will cause skipping when fired rapid double action, like in defensive shooting.
If you are going to shoot the gun, just close the cylinder, shoot, and forget about the turn line. It's normal.
Modifying the cylinder lock to rise late at the indent will cause skipping when fired rapid double action, like in defensive shooting.
If you are going to shoot the gun, just close the cylinder, shoot, and forget about the turn line. It's normal.
dfariswheel
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To be more clear: The S&W and most other modern revolvers are specifically designed to allow the cylinder locking bolt to ride on the cylinder for much of its travel.
Since the bolt is intended to ride the cylinder it WILL leave a wear mark on the cylinder.
The only modern revolver that doesn't allow the bolt to ride the cylinder is the old Colt actions like the Detective Special and Python.
Even though the bolt doesn't ride the cylinder in those models, the cylinder will still get the wear ring from closing the cylinder and turning it to lock it.
Bottom line, the S&W is supposed to have a wear line in the cylinder and if it doesn't get one as soon as you start to use it, the gun is actually defective.
Since the bolt is intended to ride the cylinder it WILL leave a wear mark on the cylinder.
The only modern revolver that doesn't allow the bolt to ride the cylinder is the old Colt actions like the Detective Special and Python.
Even though the bolt doesn't ride the cylinder in those models, the cylinder will still get the wear ring from closing the cylinder and turning it to lock it.
Bottom line, the S&W is supposed to have a wear line in the cylinder and if it doesn't get one as soon as you start to use it, the gun is actually defective.
I have serious doubts that a Smith could be tuned to avoid the turn ring. The trigger would have to hold the cylinder stop down way longer than normal, so much so that the cylinder stop would draw down below the frame. This is to be avoided, because it could catch on the frame, retarding or preventing the cylinder stop from engaging.
29aholic
Member
If you take the cylinder stop out and CAREFULLY polish it to a mirror shine with 1000 or finer crocus cloth it will help a lot, just dont round the edges
yessir, as said above, polish the bolt will"help"keep it to a minimum,but you will still get "the line"....it's when this "line" is NOT a straight line or skips, or wiggles, this tells you "something" is amiss......nature of the beast..........enjoy and do not fret. OR, NEVER open ,unlock or work the action, on a gun that has NO line, and it "won't...." 
The point that dfariswheel makes has much to do with makeing a mark on the cylinder of even a perfectly timed revolver action.
The fact that the bolt is in the up position anytime the cylinder is opened,, and then closed,, the bolt will be rubbing against the cylinder as it is then rotated in to the locked position.
Unless each and everytime the cylinder is closed on the revolver it is very carefully rolled into position to engage the bolt into one of the locking slots, it will need to be rotated at least a small amount. That constant rotation is done with the bolt bearing against the cylinder surface somewhere along it's circumference marking the 'line'.
That's why the drag line forms all the way from locking slot to locking slot even though the timing can be perfect.
The fact that the bolt is in the up position anytime the cylinder is opened,, and then closed,, the bolt will be rubbing against the cylinder as it is then rotated in to the locked position.
Unless each and everytime the cylinder is closed on the revolver it is very carefully rolled into position to engage the bolt into one of the locking slots, it will need to be rotated at least a small amount. That constant rotation is done with the bolt bearing against the cylinder surface somewhere along it's circumference marking the 'line'.
That's why the drag line forms all the way from locking slot to locking slot even though the timing can be perfect.
