Protect Finish

[paddington]

I have a 1957 smith and wesson with near 95% bluing. (other then some slight wear marks on the end of the barrel from holster usage, and some wear on the crane)

I have had it in a drawer fitted with egg shell foam. I noticed some pitting (very slight and might have been there along time ago) while handling it today.

I have used Hoppes 9 lubricating oil on the finish of some poorly blued newer firearms, and have applied a light coat to the SW a few months back and tonight.

What other options to I have and what have you guys found to be the best to retain finish on older firearms.

Thanks,

Paddington

 

[paddington]

Wanted to state that I had read up on waxing in some other posts, but curious about rust protection and oiling.

If wax is just as good, what is the best way to go about it, do you use a solvent to remove oil and any particles before waxing?

 

[cjw3]

Remove oil with denatured alcohol. Wax is best applied with your finger, and if using Renaissance Wax a little goes a long way. Several thin coats is the way to go.

 

[Shooting Padre]

Renaissance Wax seems to be one of the waxes mentioned most here. I use it and I find it works very well. I makes the bluing really pop. It is a little spendy but a small container should last a long time. Well worth looking into.

 

[JSR III]

+1 on the Renaissance Wax. A 200 ml can will last a very long time. I apply it with a small piece of an old cotton T shirt and then let it dry. Buff it out with another clean piece of the T shirt and it will shine like new.

As stated, clean the gun first with Kroil and some 0000 brass wool rubbing gently to remove the rust flaking. (Remove the stocks before you begin.) Remember that you are just trying to knock off the rust, not remove the blue finish.

When that is done, clean with denatured alcohol and then apply the wax. Make sure to get it on the grip frame especially if you store the gun with the stocks on. Several light coats and buff like crazy. Reinstall the stocks and apply a light coat to them as well. Buff well and if any lint gets in the checking, remove it with a gentle brushing with a nylon tooth brush. (Don't tell the wife you used her toothbrush either, they get really funny about that)

That should keep your gun shinning and prevent any future flaking.

 

[H Richard]

If there is any active rusting I would use some Corrosion X first before waxing. Wipe down with Corrosion X and let sit at least 24 hours, then clean with Kroil or denatured alcohol then wax with Renaissance Wax.

 

[rboineau]

For forty years I have used "RIG" grease on blued guns for rust protection inside and out. Product dates from the 1930's but it is good stuff, available in one-ounce containers on up.

DON'T use on plated guns. It, like Hoppes and some other solvents, will lift the nickel under some circumstances It was originally developed to remove metal fouling in barrels (in addition to its rust-protection characteristics) so will tend to do the same to plating