PU Truck motor oil??

Harrison

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2013 Ford F150 small V-8, with aproximately 30K miles. Should I change to a fully synthetic motor oil. Are the synthetics enough better to make up for the difference in price. I change oil and filter ever 5K miles. The truck has always had conventional oil, Pennzoil yellow bottle in it.
 
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Regular oil is fine. Especially if you change it often (properly). I have 260,000 miles on my 2006 F-150 and it has had ZERO engine work including stuff that bolts to the engine and is run by the belt. It uses about a quart every 4000 miles. So, when it gets low, its time to change the oil anyways. I have "added" probably less than 10 quarts in 260,000 miles. Usually 1/3 to 1/2 quart at a time.

Just make sure to use 5-20. Fords love their thin oil. At most quickie lube places, you will need to ask and insist on it. Otherwise, you will get thicker oil.
 
Ford uses a synthetic in the trucks. The 99 Ford 150 I had did not like synthetic. My 2007 I used blend. The 2013 I have now will get blend.
 
I use Amsoil in my 2012 Ford. I've used Amsoil for 28 years in everything I service. I think the synthetic oil is the way to go. Works for me.
 
Synthetic oils are just a pricey way to fool people into thinking they don't need to change it as often. Any good brand of regular oil changed at the proper intervals will make your truck last a very long time.
 
Synthetic oils are just a pricey way to fool people into thinking they don't need to change it as often. Any good brand of regular oil changed at the proper intervals will make your truck last a very long time.
Of course it is!

First off, synthetic oil is better than conventional oil when it comes to its form and function. Conventional oil could never stand up to synthetic when it comes to longevity and ability to handle extreme high temperatures without breaking down.
It has been proven to have a lower volatility and therefore not vaporize out the exhaust as quickly.

Synthetics have been shown to produce less resistance in the engine and therefore offer more horsepower and overall efficiency for the engine. 

It doesn't cost more in the long run because you end up buying conventional oil more often.
 
Arik, I have no idea what your qualifications may be. But I spent 42 years as a mechanic working mostly in fleets. So I stand behind my comments.
If you disagree, then so be it. You're entitled to your opinion, so I'll not argue the point.
Have a good day. :D
 
Oh good, an oil thread.

Maybe we should merge it with an Open Carry or 9mm vs 45 thread? :D
 
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Oh good, an oil thread.

Maybe we should merge it with an Open Carry or 9mm vs 45 thread? :D

or a "Ford vs Chevy" or my all time favorite, "Do you carry with one in the chamber"?

I think I've become experienced enough in this (and other) forums that I don't even see these regurgitated topics anymore. :cool:
 
Arik, I have no idea what your qualifications may be. But I spent 42 years as a mechanic working mostly in fleets. So I stand behind my comments.
If you disagree, then so be it. You're entitled to your opinion, so I'll not argue the point.
Have a good day. :D
I'm in the automotive business too. Synthetic today is not Synthetic 15 years ago
 
IMO, don't change what you've been doing. I've got a hard time letting my oil get over 4k miles, much less 5k.

After a period of time contaminants and mirco abrasives will get into the oils and cause wear, no matter what oil you run. IMO, its better to use a good oil and filter and change more often. The more the miles, the more often.

Again, just my opinion.
 
What's the Owner's Manual say? If it ain't broke, don't fix it. My '07 Tundra uses Mobil 1 synthetic 0-20W which has worked for 110k miles, even in the 110 degree AZ heat. Some AR guys use it on their bolts......

Might consider trading that Ford for a Tundra.........
 
Been a gear head since the 1960s and have done my share of car work. I run Mobil one in all my 4 stroke engines. That goes from my standby generator, ATV to my 505HP Vette. Benn doing that since about 1997. I do note that in sub zero tempts my outside parked Toyota Pickup starts easier than it did with the original dyno oil that it came with.

Basically it’s just the slipperiness of the oil as I use the same weight year around. (It seemed to have a slight increase in power and mileage also)


Back in the good old days we changed oil at 3,000 miles, well flash forward to today and you can easily got 7,000 to 10,000 miles between changes. Just to be more forthcoming my last 3 Vettes have an oil monitor that tell you when to change oil and you can go the distances stated above. I normally only put on about 8,000 miles a year on my Vette and I change once a year. I do an oil change in early November when I put the car away for the winter and this is OK by GM as these cars are under warranty. I doubt GM would want to replace $10,000 to $15,000+ dollar engines so I trust their advice.
 
While the "Old Style" 30 weight ($) will still work..............

The new oils used by the Honda dealer ship here in town is....
Sinclair or Mobil-1 in blended ($$) and full-Syn for their quality oil. ($$$)

It can all be mixed in the new 4 stroke outboards without any problems. The main this is "Having" some type of oil in the system.
 
My two newer Mercedes Benzs (they call them light trucks; no, I'm not kidding) only run on synthetic, and go 10,000 miles between oil changes. If the oil looked dirty I would change it sooner, but it never has. Since they are driven by my wife and daughter, and I'm not always home to change the oil, they just take them to our Benz mechanic. $100 out the door. If you are spending $35 at Jiffy Lube every 3,000 miles, I'm the one saving money. Wife's is closing in on 190K, and daughters is at 155K.
 
2013 Ford F150 small V-8, with aproximately 30K miles. Should I change to a fully synthetic motor oil. Are the synthetics enough better to make up for the difference in price. I change oil and filter ever 5K miles. The truck has always had conventional oil, Pennzoil yellow bottle in it.

Do not waste your money. Buy the cheap oil and change your fluids and filters regularly and the truck will last a long time. I never, ever had any issues running cheap oil in any of my vehicles. I do not change my oil every 3,000 miles, that is a gimmick. You need to look at the color of the oil on the dipstick as well as the smell. The thing about engine oils is that the lubricating properties last a long time, it is the detergents and other additives in the oil that stop doing their job is when you need to change it.

A good rule of thumb is that if you can see through the oil on your dipstick tube, you are still good to go. If is smells like raw gas then you have other issues but need to change the oil right away. Now with older cars that do not have roller camshafts or overhead cams, I would recommend an oil with a zinc additive like Rotella. Probably one of the best non-synthetic oils on the market. Yes they use it in diesels but it is perfectly safe for gas engines. You can find this additive in most if not all diesel engine oils. Oh and the correct weight does make a difference. Most vehicles today are 5W-30 or 5W-20.

James
 
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Not enough difference in the price of Ford's synthetic blend and most full synthetics.

I switched to full synthetic, ain't never looked back.
 
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