QD Scope Mount

Phil & rraisley, Good points. My set up is not optimal, but it is functional. I would like to lower it but I am not going to spend $90.00 for the P.E.P.R. mount. Even though the scope "should be" closer to the bore it is very natural to find the sweet spot when I shoulder the gun. I am 3 & 3/16" over my bore. There is about 1/2" of room for me to lower it and still clear the MBUS. I know I am high but how high (no pun intended)? I would like to see more comments on the effects and importance of keeping your scope close to the bore line as that is something I know little about? I see scopes mounted much higher than mine. When does it become problematic?
 
as long as you're sighting in for a specific distance and know how to adjust for other distances, it shouldnt really matter what height its at.
 
Not true. The higher you go the more radical those adjustments will be. I was asking "what is too high"? I know the closer to the bore line the better.
 
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For what it's worth, I purchased the NcStar QD mount from Amazon mentioned in Post #2 from this thread: http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-wesson-m-p-15-22/256398-scope-mounts.html (Thanks for the link rraisley)

I used it to mount a Leupold 1-4x 20mm scope on my AR15 (not my 15-22). I also have a QD Aimpoint CompL2 along with an always mounted Magpul BIUS.

After a few trips to the range, the NcStar has always held within about 1 MOA when I switch from the scope to the Red Dot. I'm pleased with the unit at the price I paid.
 
Not true. The higher you go the more radical those adjustments will be. I was asking "what is too high"? I know the closer to the bore line the better.
That depends, actually. For a "normal" sight height, a typical round sighted at 25 yards will also be pretty much right on at 75 or so yards, and several inches low at 100 yards. We shoot at 25 and 100 yards only, so actually a higher sight would make the two come out closer. While my scope is mounted about 2.8" above barrel centerline, raising it to 3.7" would make it dead-on at both 25 and 100 yards. That's too high for my comfort, though, so I live with making the change to 100 yards.

Now, if you're shooting at /closer/ distances, then yes, a higher sight will cause more correction when changing distances. But either way, a scope is going to be right on at only 2 distances, requiring correction for others.
 
That depends, actually. For a "normal" sight height, a typical round sighted at 25 yards will also be pretty much right on at 75 or so yards, and several inches low at 100 yards. We shoot at 25 and 100 yards only, so actually a higher sight would make the two come out closer. While my scope is mounted about 2.8" above barrel centerline, raising it to 3.7" would make it dead-on at both 25 and 100 yards. That's too high for my comfort, though, so I live with making the change to 100 yards.

Now, if you're shooting at /closer/ distances, then yes, a higher sight will cause more correction when changing distances. But either way, a scope is going to be right on at only 2 distances, requiring correction for others.

That is correct. the difference really depends on what distance you sight it in for. If the scope is mounted higher then the 2 points at which the round passes thru the zero points of the scope will be farther apart and outside of those 2 points it will require more Kentucky windage to keep the bullet on target. If the scope is mounted lower then the 2 points will be closer together plus the deviation when outside those points will require less estimation. Also if you set it up like hunting and sight it in at +1" at the maximum bullet height point the range coverage at which the bullet will strike plus or minus 1" will cover a greater distance than if the scope is placed higher. That way there is a larger distance where you can just shoot and not worry about how far the bullet will be off.
That is sort of how I setup the scopes I use on my 3-gun AR. I set it up so that from me to 150 yards I can shoot to the POA of the scope and know that the bullet will fall within +- 2"
and from that I know the ballistics of the round I use such that I know the amount of drop in addtion to the 2" from there to at least 400 yards. With the 15-22 I try to keep the +- such that I can shoot the scope out to say 75 yards without having to adjust my aim. Not as easy with the bullet drop of the .22LR. So I mount my scopes on low cantilever mounts that have the same height in general. I use the NcStar QD, Aim Sport cantilever (cheap PEPR w/o QR) and the AR-Stoner (stongest mount but the harder to get off as it slides off the rail). The only way to use a rear flipup sight and a short ER scope without having to remove the scope is to turn the flip backwards. If you are using it with a red dot that is no problem. On my 3-gun AR I find I can't use flipups with the 1-6x24 scope I use so I have a set of Barry Dueck's 45 degree offset sights. They work well but at $200 a set they are a little high priced for a 15-22. If you want to be cheaper you can take the original 15-22 iron sights and mount them on a pair of Daniel Defense 1 O'clock offset rail mounts. That will only set you back $38x2. Or just put a mini-red dot on one of them, I've done that also.
 
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Thanks for all the info guys. That why I have been a part of this forum for a long time.
 
After a lot of head scratching selecting what mount to get (budget consideration considered), I opted for this one :

Amazon.com: UTG Max Strength LE Grade Quick Detach Picatinny Scope Rings (2 Piece, 1-Inch Diam, 6-Screw Hi Profile): Sports & Outdoors

It came in today's mail. Nice construction and good QD lever. Mounted on the rifle without removing the Magpul MBUS. Had just a tad 1/16" clearance from the ocular bell but not a problem. Now I like it more coz its closer to the bore. This may not be a Burris but serves the purpose. Thanks for all the suggestions and discussion.
 
I have two sets of the 4-screw model, each set on a different scope. They switch with virtually no change of zero.

They are easily the equal of rings costing four and five times as much.
 
I also got the 4 screw one, 30mm for my red dot.
 
After a lot of head scratching selecting what mount to get (budget consideration considered), I opted for this one :

Amazon.com: UTG Max Strength LE Grade Quick Detach Picatinny Scope Rings (2 Piece, 1-Inch Diam, 6-Screw Hi Profile): Sports & Outdoors

It came in today's mail. Nice construction and good QD lever.
My concern with that one is that I doubt it will give a very repeatable zero when mounting, due to its extremely short length. Mounting /two/ of them on a scope would cure that, of course, but be twice as expensive. Anyhow, looks good, but so very short, I don't know.
 
My concern with that one is that I doubt it will give a very repeatable zero when mounting, due to its extremely short length. Mounting /two/ of them on a scope would cure that, of course, but be twice as expensive. Anyhow, looks good, but so very short, I don't know.

Are you assuming he used only one ring to mount the scope? They come in pairs. :)
 
That being the case, it would work out just fine. Guess I missed that. But yes, my concern would be just using one as pictured.

Now I am assuming he did use two. :)

FWIW, I have two sets of the four-screw version, one set on a 3-9x32 and the other on a 6x32. They interchange with no change in zero.
 
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Actually, it says it's 2 pieces, not a pair. I assumed that to mean top and bottom, but that may not be the case.

Never seen a one-piece ring (not sure how you would get it on the scope), so yes, there are two pieces. :)

Both of my sets came as a pair. Every set of rings I have ever purchased or even seen come two to a package.
 
Yes, the mount came in a pair so that answers the querry. Cheers!
 
Both of my sets came as a pair. Every set of rings I have ever purchased or even seen come two to a package.
I agree, but have seen stranger things. Usually Amazon shows everything you get; if there's 2, they show 2.

But glad it worked out well. Looks like a good option, as while you have the QR, you can adapt to any length of scope.
 
After a lot of head scratching selecting what mount to get (budget consideration considered), I opted for this one :

Amazon.com: UTG Max Strength LE Grade Quick Detach Picatinny Scope Rings (2 Piece, 1-Inch Diam, 6-Screw Hi Profile): Sports & Outdoors

It came in today's mail. Nice construction and good QD lever. Mounted on the rifle without removing the Magpul MBUS. Had just a tad 1/16" clearance from the ocular bell but not a problem. Now I like it more coz its closer to the bore. This may not be a Burris but serves the purpose. Thanks for all the suggestions and discussion.

Any chance you could post a pic of your setup? I would really like to use the UTG Hi Profile rings, but by my calculations they won't clear the rear MBUIS Gen2 (.51in) with my Nikon P-22, which has the same eyepiece outside diameter (44mm/1.73in) as your Nikon Prostaff 3-9x40.

My calculations:
MBUIS+(1/2)(EyepieceOD)-(1/2)(TubeWidth)=Minimum Saddle Height of rings
.51+(1/2)(1.73)-(1/2)(1)=.875in=22.225mm

The UTG Max Strength LE Grade Quick Detach Picatinny Scope Rings (2 Piece, 1-Inch Diam, 6-Screw Hi Profile) have a saddle height of only 20mm, which means they are 2.225mm short of being able to fit the P-22 over the top of the rear MBUIS Gen2.

What am I missing or doing wrong? Did you mount your scope where the eyepiece was in front of the rear MBUIS and not on top of the rear MBUIS?

Unless you can prove me wrong, I think I'm going to have to get a Burris PEPR mount or Burris XTR Extra High rings. Please prove me wrong!!!

Thanks a ton.
 

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