Quality of Modern 686 vs Pre-Lock 686

[SLT223]

FWIW, I paid $315 + $18.90tx of ($333.90) for my 4in 686nodash back in August of 1986. I just ran an online inflation calculator and in 2016 dollars it comes out as $736.44 tax included.

So YES, new 686 4in guns are cheaper today than they were in 1986. That premium for "no-dash" really is not a premium IMO, just inflation kicking in.

And yes, I still have my original receipt...

I don't know. You have to bear in mind that the $7xx handle on the pre-lock today is a used gun. NIB would pull $900+ no problem. Used they are worth more than a new one.

I think apples to apples would be comparing that used pre-lock value to the used value of a 686-6.

 

[SS57]

I was in yours shoes a couple of years ago, but I wanted a 3 inch. I have several pre-lock L's in other barrel lengths but wanted the three inch. I decided I didn't want to pay the premium for the pre-lock 3's so I bought a new -6 3 inch. I could not be happier. Super smooth action and tight. But the choice is yours. Good luck.

 

[Mark IV]

What I'm looking for is a 357 magnum that I don't have to worry about what I shoot in it. I have a model 19 and its treated like a 38 special by me I can't remember the last time I shot 357s in it, and when I do there always 158 grain. I want a stainless steel 4 inch 357 that I can use for conceal carry and can shoot barn burning light 357s all day long. The dreaded 110 and 125 grain magnums that can crack a k frame's forcing cone. I really want stainless steel so when I carry it I wouldn't have to worry about the finish like blued or nickel gun.

Then I'd say the Ruger GP100 is definitely your huckleberry, and I'd bet most folks will agree. But you're gonna want a real beefy belt and holster if you plan on hauling that bastage around every day !!

 

[HOUSTON RICK]

I prefer pre-lock, but the lock is not a deal breaker for me, and the new 686 is as good as the old one for most of us. I would, as mentioned above, look for a 686+. If your interested is looking a while longer there is a Talo version in 7.5" barrel and 4" barrel. Good luck!

 

[jaymoore]

What I'm looking for is a 357 magnum that I don't have to worry about what I shoot in it. I have a model 19 and its treated like a 38 special by me I can't remember the last time I shot 357s in it, and when I do there always 158 grain. I want a stainless steel 4 inch 357 that I can use for conceal carry and can shoot barn burning light 357s all day long. The dreaded 110 and 125 grain magnums that can crack a k frame's forcing cone. I really want stainless steel so when I carry it I wouldn't have to worry about the finish like blued or nickel gun.

I have long since learned to inspect any revolver before purchase, new or used (starting in the early '80s). Current production seems about the same or better as the older stuff, shooter-wise. Advantage with new is you have the warranty. As far as aesthetics, well...How does it look whilst you are looking at the front sight, pulling the trigger?

 

[chrishu44]

I guess I should add I owned a Ruger Gp100 in blued with the 4.2 inch barrel and I carried it for awhile IWB on my right side. I don't remember it being any harder to carry than a 4 inch k frame. The only reason I traded it was I really wanted stainless and blue was all I could find at the time. I was going to buy a new Gp100 with no hesitation but same problem, there a little hard to find in my area. The Gp100 is a great gun but I really can't get over the way they cut the front of the barrel under lug. So this time I want to get exactly what I want so I will keep it. I think a 4 inch six shot 686 is one I'd never get rid of I just wanted to make sure new Smith and Wesson quality was good, I keep seeing all these internet horror stories and videos.

 

[Collo Rosso]

I have 3 S&W revolvers with the lock. When people comment about it I just tell them "when I shoot them, all I see is the sights".

 

[rwt1405]

Then I'd say the Ruger GP100 is definitely your huckleberry, and I'd bet most folks will agree. But you're gonna want a real beefy belt and holster if you plan on hauling that bastage around every day !!

+1 on that!

While I have two pre lock 686's (2 1/2" and 4"), I purchased a GP100 Wiley Clapp (they are 3") and have to say I like it a lot (and NO Hillary Hole, I refuse to buy a 686 with one), and it will make a good carry gun for colder weather and hiking, etc..

 

[AlHunt]

What I'm looking for is a 357 magnum that I don't have to worry about what I shoot in it.

... I can shoot barn burning light 357s all day long. The dreaded 110 and 125 grain magnums that can crack a k frame's forcing cone.

Sounds like you want to use it hard. Might want to start with a fresh gun. Get the new one. S&W would probably warranty an older one for you, but with a new one there's no question that you're the original owner.

 

[revolver686]

I have three 686s; a -4, a -5 and a -6. I just don't see any real difference in the build quality or function between them. I have had no operational issues with MIM or internal firing pins, and the lock has never caused me a bit of problem. I only fire .357 and with 1000s of rounds through them they have never given me any issues.

However, aesthetically I have to give the nod to the -4. I like the flash-chromed trigger and hammer, no Hillary hole, old-style cylinder release, and a somewhat slimmer frame where the hammer rests.

 

[chrishu44]

Sounds like you want to use it hard. Might want to start with a fresh gun. Get the new one. S&W would probably warranty an older one for you, but with a new one there's no question that you're the original owner.

I think your right, I just needed reassurance that the new guns are good guns. And I have no problem with Ruger, I love my blackhawk I just know I want a 686 and if I get a Gp100 I may not keep it. The lock that smith uses now doesn't really bother me I know how to remove it and I know how to throw it in the trash too....

 

[chrishu44]

I have three 686s; a -4, a -5 and a -6. I just don't see any real difference in the build quality or function between them. I have had no operational issues with MIM or internal firing pins, and the lock has never caused me a bit of problem. I only fire .357 and with 1000s of rounds through them they have never given me any issues.

However, aesthetically I have to give the nod to the -4. I like the flash-chromed trigger and hammer, no Hillary hole, old-style cylinder release, and a somewhat slimmer frame where the hammer rests.

Beautiful gun you have there, I agree with everything you said about the older styling. I'm just impatient I will probably order a new 686 at a local store so I don't have to shop around.

 

[Tom S.]

I know how to throw it in the trash too....

Don't make that mistake! Some day, legislation may come that requires any safety mechanism that came with the gun to be functional, not to mention should you ever decide to sell the gun, you'll want to restore it for litigation purposes. Just put the parts in a small bag and label what they are for (memory can fail us as we get old) and tuck them away somewhere they won't get lost - like in the box the gun came with.

 

[shocker]

What I'm looking for is a 357 magnum that I don't have to worry about what I shoot in it. I have a model 19 and its treated like a 38 special by me I can't remember the last time I shot 357s in it, and when I do there always 158 grain. I want a stainless steel 4 inch 357 that I can use for conceal carry and can shoot barn burning light 357s all day long. The dreaded 110 and 125 grain magnums that can crack a k frame's forcing cone. I really want stainless steel so when I carry it I wouldn't have to worry about the finish like blued or nickel gun.

The new 66-8 fixed the forcing cone problem. If I was in the market for a 6 shot 357 that would be my choice.

 

[stem]

Is the trigger on the new ones a MIM part? It looks to me like a stamped part.

 

[stem]

Is the trigger on the new ones a MIM part? It looks like stamped steel tp me.

 

[A.J.R.]

Is the trigger on the new ones a MIM part? It looks to me like a stamped part.

Hammer, trigger, and rebound slide are MIM if memory serves.

 

[chrishu44]

Don't make that mistake! Some day, legislation may come that requires any safety mechanism that came with the gun to be functional, not to mention should you ever decide to sell the gun, you'll want to restore it for litigation purposes. Just put the parts in a small bag and label what they are for (memory can fail us as we get old) and tuck them away somewhere they won't get lost - like in the box the gun came with.

Yea I would probably keep all the parts in the box. If I can find a new 686 or order one I probably won't be selling it. I always thought removing the lock just makes it like my older guns that were never made with a lock. But you never know what may become law in the future I guess. This reminds me I sent a 629-1 back to smith and I still have the old hammer and trigger they replaced, it had a bad trigger job, it would push off. I sold that gun years ago, so I guess I'm a pack rat I just can't throw away something that may be useful one day.

 

[Tom S.]

Yea I would probably keep all the parts in the box. If I can find a new 686 or order one I probably won't be selling it. I always thought removing the lock just makes it like my older guns that were never made with a lock. But you never know what may become law in the future I guess. This reminds me I sent a 629-1 back to smith and I still have the old hammer and trigger they replaced, it had a bad trigger job, it would push off. I sold that gun years ago, so I guess I'm a pack rat I just can't throw away something that may be useful one day.

Actually, one of those parts may still be good. Often a bad trigger job is caused by removal of too much material on just one of the parts (trigger in my experience), which means the other part may still be good. When a bad trigger job comes in, it's easier to start fresh with two new parts than try to figure out if one or both parts are bad.

 

[chrishu44]

Yea I guess it pays to hang on to old parts, smith and wesson was nice enough to send back everything when I had to send that 629 in. I probably keep that hammer around it still has firing pin in it. Thanks for all the advice Tom, I can't wait to find a 686 now.