Quality Refinisher Needed

[oldmcdonald]

I am looking for a quality gun refinisher that could replicate the original du lite finish on a 1943 Union Switch & Signal 1911a1.
I already know about Turnbull & am looking for someone who isn’t as expensive and doesn’t have the long backlog. I also am familiar with Ford’s in Florida. Your suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks

 

[raljr1]

wiregrassguy had someone do a remarkable job on a k frame. maybe PM him

 

[Dino44]

I lived in Western Washington for many years. Every time the subject of bluing came up in conversations at gun shops, gun shows, and gunsmiths. Glenrock Blue of Wyoming was recommended most often.

 

[Jebus35745]

Don’t use Victors Legacy in Fairport Harbor Ohio, Larry

 

[Hondo44]

You would have to do some interviews of refinishers for that one, it’s a pretty specific finish. My first question to them would be: Do you know what finish a US&S 1911-A1 should have? If they don’t say du lite, go on to another finisher.

If they say du lite and actually done it, ask for a photo of one they’ve done. If the metal prep looks proper and the finish looks correct, then talk price.

Glen rock Blue has a great reputation. But not every finisher does every kind of finish.

 

[rct269]

You would have to do some interviews of refinishers for that one, it’s a pretty specific finish. My first question to them would be: Do you know what finish a US&S 1911-A1 should have? If they don’t say du lite, go on to another finisher.

If they say du lite and actually done it, ask for a photo of one they’ve done. If the metal prep looks proper and the finish looks correct, then talk price.

Glen rock Blue has a great reputation. But not every finisher does every kind of finish.

What he said---most especially the last line.

Ralph Tremaine

 

[2152hq]

It's the correct polish grit/grit lines for the mfg'r and era of production that will make the most difference in the final look.
That and the preservation of the original markings and their appearance as such.

You are looking for a Restoration, not just a nice refinish using DuLite hot blue salt as a final 'blue'.

DuLite is still very much in business and about the biggest provider of Bluing Salts to the trade.
It's not like the stuff is a rare, un-obtainium substance.
The final look will be in the prep and application.

A 'polish and reblue' no matter what is used to make it blue again can ruin a nice original piece.

Shiny and blue are easy to accomplish. Restored is not.
30% original is better than a complete polish and re-blue on a collectible.
There are plenty of the latter around and most are called 'shooters' & are priced accordingly.

Choose carefully.

 

[dfariswheel]

The top refinishers are.............

Apw/Cogan, arguably the best of them all.
https://apwcogan.com/

Glenrock IS the best.
Glenrock Blue

Precision is well known for quality work.
Home | Precision Bluing

Ford's used to offer high quality bluing but there have been some serious problems in the last few years. For plated finishes they're still okay, but bluing is a risk.
Ford's Custom Gun Refinishing | Crystal River, FL

Here's an example of Turnbull's current work............
restoration question | 1911Forum

 

[DWalt]

Du lite is pretty much identical to every other hot oxide metal bluing bath used on guns, such as what Brownell's sells. What I would do is to not even attempt any kind of metal prep (other than a thorough degreasing), just blue over whatever remains if you want the original factory military appearance. I have blued many guns that way. Simple, quick, and cheap if you can find someone local who is set up to do it. A fine bead blasting prior to bluing might help, but I would be very cautious about that. Do not complicate things as hot oxide bluing itself is an easy job. All the work and expense is due to the metal prep, which you do not want.

 

[chief38]

I did read that the Du Lite finish is still made today (article was from 10 years ago though). I am not up on re-finishing and would only suggest that you might try and contact the company that makes it, then ask then for recommendations.

I would think for the best shot at matching the original finish the gun would need stripping, a light bead blasting and cleaning prior to refinishing but that should be done by an expert who knows how to preserve as much of the original markings as possible.

Just out of curiosity what is the condition of the pistol now? Can you post a picture?

 

[DWalt]

I do not know, but my expectation would be that the metal surfaces were originally bead blasted at US&S prior to bluing. I wouldn't do anything to the existing finish before rebluing. At worst, maybe go over it with hydrochloric acid to remove any original finish remaining. After bluing, whether the finish would be improved by bead blasting can be decided. Removing a blued finish by bead blasting is very quick and requires little skill. Anyone can do it. Then just re-blue it. NOTHING about Dulite is magic. All of the similar hot oxide bluing products contain the same ingredients (a solution of caustic soda and sodium or potassium nitrate) and will produce the same results. It has been around for a great many years. BTW, the best way to degrease a part prior to bluing is a wipedown with MEK. Far superior to boiling parts in a silicated detergent solution. We stopped using the detergent bath in favor of MEK, and got far fewer rejects.

 

[chief38]

I do not know, but my expectation would be that the metal surfaces were originally bead blasted at US&S prior to bluing. I wouldn't do anything to the existing finish before rebluing. At worst, maybe go over it with hydrochloric acid to remove any original finish remaining. After bluing, whether the finish would be improved by bead blasting can be decided. Removing a blued finish by bead blasting is very quick and requires little skill. Anyone can do it. Then just re-blue it. NOTHING about Dulite is magic. All of the similar hot oxide bluing products contain the same ingredients and will produce the same results. It has been around for a great many years. BTW, the best way to degrease a part prior to bluing is a wipedown with MEK. Far superior to boiling parts in a silicated detergent solution. We stopped using the detergent bath in favor of MEK, and got far fewer rejects.

Bead blasting is a relatively simple process however an inexperienced operator can use the wrong beads, the wrong nozzle, get too close for too long and soften the roll markings. That I'd hate to see happen.

If the pistol is to be refinished, it truly won't matter (as far as value is concerned) if it is a full refinish or a partial finish - IMO. The bottom line is it will no longer be original. That said, I'd personally like it to look as close to what it did when it came out of the factory that made it - but that is just my liking and other's might have their own theory's.

There is no simpler task then plain old sanding - how many people have ruined items by sanding incorrectly? So IMHO even simple easy tasks need to be done correctly. Not wanting to start an argument, but I have truly seen a few abortions.

 

[scooter123]

IMO you shouldn't refinish at all. Instead what you should do is Conserve the finish. Very basically this means cleaning off any surface oil. Something that can be accomplished by dropping the frame and slide into a bath of Methanol or Acetone. Then drop in in a large pot of boiling water for an hour or however long the water in the pot will keep everything completely submerged. Note the boiling is the final stage of Rust Bluing and will convert any red rust into Black Oxide. Because of this the original finish will be restored to some extent, sometimes a lot, and help clean any remaining crud from the finish. While it won't make the pistol factory fresh it will look a lot better and preserve all the "battle scars" it earned while in service.

 

[DWalt]

As I stated, IF the goal is to make the finish look much like it was when it left the factory, the most conservative way is to simply drop the components into the bluing tank without bead blasting, sanding, polishing, etc. Not knowing what the present finish looks like complicates making a recommendation. If it is not severely worn, the best approach would be to just leave it alone. The absolute last thing I would recommend is to send it to one of the refinishing robbers. BTW, a US&S .45 is among the most desirable.