Question about sighting/bore sighting

[HELLSING]

Now I know that you must sight in a red-dot, scope, etc.


But when switching to a NEW scope/red-dot do you have to bore-sight that in, then zero it at the range?

 

[stavman11]

Now I know that you must sight in a red-dot, scope, etc.


But when switching to a NEW scope/red-dot do you have to bore-sight that in, then zero it at the range?

What i do... is try and Place the site in the exact spot as last time it was on yer Gun

Then minimal, if Any, is needed...

Red Dot/Reflex seem to need the Least amount of re-Sighting... longer Range scopes , for me, have needed more tuning..

Personaly... i'd just get 2 Guns....

LOL

 

[BHarada]

Bore sighting is really only necessary if you absolutely can't get on paper when sighting in. In most cases you just move in closer to the target. Sight in at 15-25 yards on a large target and you can skip the bore sighting.

Anytime you add anything new—optics, rings, mounts—or dismount/remount optics you'll need to rezeo. With good QD mounts the amount your zero will have drifted should be minimal.

 

[Maddmax]

Now I know that you must sight in a red-dot, scope, etc.

But when switching to a NEW scope/red-dot do you have to bore-sight that in, then zero it at the range?

Being the key word here is NEW. Yes you have to re sight/zero anything new being mounted.

Bore sighting before the range,saves a few rounds of ammo and gets you on the paper quicker with a NEW scope/red dot.

Bore sighting isn't a "do all" done. You still need to fine tune the scope to your yardage.

 

[don5]

I always boresight any new scope that I put on any gun. I also Loctite the base screws, unless it is a qd model, and Loctite the rings as well. On an AR, I use a laser boresight. I usually boresight it at night so I can see the red laser better. I shine it out my back door onto the side of my outbuilding which is 40 yards away according to my rangefinder. This helps me get on paper quickly with minimal shots. I sighted in two AR's last weekend and used 6 shots between the two to get it in the bullseye at 100 yards. I shoot at the 50 yard first and then move out to 100.

 

[Hobie1]

I always boresight any new scope that I put on any gun. I also Loctite the base screws, unless it is a qd model, and Loctite the rings as well. On an AR, I use a laser boresight. I usually boresight it at night so I can see the red laser better. I shine it out my back door onto the side of my outbuilding which is 40 yards away according to my rangefinder. This helps me get on paper quickly with minimal shots. I sighted in two AR's last weekend and used 6 shots between the two to get it in the bullseye at 100 yards. I shoot at the 50 yard first and then move out to 100.

How do you boresight an AR without removing the BCG and charging handle and not use a lazer?

Hobie

 

[don5]

How do you boresight an AR without removing the BCG and charging handle and not use a lazer?

Hobie

I use the laser that fits down the muzzle of the barrel. It is a Bushnell brand. It was like $25. For everything else I use a Tasco brand grid boresighter with the arbors that fit down the muzzle. I have used this setup since the early 90's on everything I own, my son owns, his buddies, the neighbors, friends, relatives, etc... you get the idea.

 

[MichiganScott]

I use a variant of BHarada's method. I'll try one shot at 25 yards and if I'm not on paper, I'll walk down range to about twelve yards and take another shot for the initial sight adjustments. I'll then adjust the zero to be about 2" low with an AR and 1" low for a bolt gun at 25 yards. I finesse my zero ast 100.

Like Maddmax said, this has to be done whenever anything is changed with the sighting equipment.

I used to LockTite the base screws on bolt guns, and then only because I couldn't get a screwdriver under the scope. I now feel the using a torque wrench and properly torquing the screws makes locking agents unnecessary.

I currently apply an anti-seize compound on the screws. The copper and aluminum dust in the grease seems to work every bit as well as Locktite when used with a torque wrench and prevents rusting of the screws as an added benefit.

 

[Maddmax]

I currently apply an anti-seize compound on the screws. The copper and aluminum dust in the grease seems to work every bit as well as Locktite when used with a torque wrench and prevents rusting of the screws as an added benefit.

Good point on the Anti-Sieze. Over a period of time the screws can/do become a "bear" to get out depending on what type of materials are used.

 

[BHarada]

Good point on the Anti-Sieze. Over a period of time the screws can/do become a "bear" to get out depending on what type of materials are used.

Screws can also be a bear to get out if you get the locktite under the screw head and into the socket. Luckily for me the good people at Burris were kind enough to send me some replacement screws, free of charge, when I had to drill one out on my P.E.P.R. mount.

 

[BillyJack2012]

My borsighting consists of pulling the BCG and CH, sitting the upper on my dining room table, aiming at a target across the hall in my office, zeroing in the center of my barrel simply by looking through it and adjusting the red dot to the same windage. I get close on elevation and fine tune at the range.