Question on an ad I saw with a trigger job on a 686

colubrid1

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Saw this ad for a 686 on another site. Was wondering about what he says about the trigger job. It says you can push off on the hammer in SA mode.

I always thought if this happens somebody did not know what they were doing when they did a trigger job?

He is part of the ad:
The gun comes with the original box, all papers, and even the rare prop rod. It comes with a rare factory bright polish stainless finish. The original cheap rubber grips were replaced with vintage (c. 1970) walnut checkered magna style grips. The gun has received a trigger job, but the rebound spring, main spring, and main spring screw were not shortened or altered (NOT butchered), only the trigger/hammer hooks polished. As such, you can push off the hammer in SA mode, but that is normal for a trigger job like this. The DA action is smooth and lock-up is tight. The B/C gap is in great shape at .006", even gap around the cone perimeter, and the endshake is not measurable - as good as it gets.
 
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Saw this ad for a 686 on another site. Was wondering about what he says about the trigger job. It says you can push off on the hammer in SA mode.

I always thought if this happens somebody did not know what they were doing when they did a trigger job?

He is part of the ad:
The gun comes with the original box, all papers, and even the rare prop rod. It comes with a rare factory bright polish stainless finish. The original cheap rubber grips were replaced with vintage (c. 1970) walnut checkered magna style grips. The gun has received a trigger job, but the rebound spring, main spring, and main spring screw were not shortened or altered (NOT butchered), only the trigger/hammer hooks polished. As such, you can push off the hammer in SA mode, but that is normal for a trigger job like this. The DA action is smooth and lock-up is tight. The B/C gap is in great shape at .006", even gap around the cone perimeter, and the endshake is not measurable - as good as it gets.
 
AN "action job" with the original, unaltered main and rebound springs, and tension screw absolutely SHOULD NOT push off. It is NOT normal at all. That is BS! What the next owner is looking at is the cost of a replacement hammer and trigger at the minimum.
 
Originally posted by colubrid1:
The gun has received a trigger job, but the rebound spring, main spring, and main spring screw were not shortened or altered (NOT butchered), only the trigger/hammer hooks polished. As such, you can push off the hammer in SA mode, but that is normal for a trigger job like this.

Normal only for a "trigger job" done by an incompetent.
 
The guy that wrote that is a sap. A hammer that will push off is never normal. I had a Model 14 that someone had done a "trigger job" like this on. Happily, the fact that I discovered it gave me a great bargaining point with the seller, and I took it home cheap,in the full knowledge that I already had a like-new hammer in the parts box. A half hour's work, and it was like new.
 
You must be looking at the same 686-4 I am. I thought it was overpriced to begin with and after posting in the revolver forum , my original opinion was confirmed.
 
its bs and considerably unsafe. im dealing with the same problem with a 14-2 I just picked up. Nimrod stoned the hammer cocking notch darn near off. Contemplating a replacement trigger, but, can the hammer cocking notch be recut/reground and re hardened?
 
Yes, it can, but you risk loosing the beautiful case hardening colors.

Remove hammer mainspring strut & pin, double action sear & pin. Naked hammer only. Grind and file new sear notch, and stone smooth.

The ones I've done were packed in wet absestos "mud", and held in a heatsink type clamp. Using Casenit compound and the very tip of a hot torch, I've sucessfully re-hardened sear notches. The seemed to hold up too. I've never had one come back broken.
 
I would tell the gun seller to "push off".
 
The only way to fix this "action job" is a new hammer and trigger. Keep messing with it and you will add timing issues as well.
 
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