Question on my new 686P

lfurr

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I started a thread the other day asking how I know whether or not my new gun is really new, since I ordered it online (from Buds Gunshop). It was advertised as "Factory New". I picked it up from my FFL guy today and, quite frankly, it seemed pretty filthy to me. I spoke to a guy at Smith & Wesson who told me that the testing they do in the factory could, in fact, be anywhere from a few rounds up to as many as 50 rounds that they fire until they tweak it, get it just right, etc. He also looked up the serial number and confirmed that it was built on June 20th.

SO, a few questions....should it really be THAT dirty. I mean geez, the forcing cone was filthy; I had to use a bronze brush with a lot of Hoppe's to get it close to clean. The bore was pretty dirty too. The stainless steel seems to have a very light brushing sort of scratch everywhere, but again, the Smith & Wesson guy told me that is the normal finish of a new gun of this type.

I'll be taking it to the range tomorrow morning. Any input from you guys would be great since I am a newbie. Just want to be sure my new gun is new and get some peace of mind, but at this point, I suppose it doesn't matter since it's mine now. :confused:

Thanks!
 
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I handled a lot of 686's in the store before buying one, and none had signs of firing more than a round or two. There were no drag marks between cylinder stops and only minor staining of the cylinder. Other than dirt and staining, 50 rounds would not put significant wear and tear on a revolver, but it wouldn't really be new either.

If you're happy with the revolver and price OK. If not, ask for a refund or return. New ones are not hard to find for $750 or less.
 
First, everyones evaluation of a gun being clean will vary. Just filthy to you may look perfectly clean to me. I don't consider a stainless steel revolver to be just filthy unless the top strap is near fully black from front to rear and the outer diameter of the cylinder is covered with smoke residue and has patches of precipitated lead on it.

Standard practice for S&W is to load a round in every other cylinder position and test fire the gun. Now on a 686P that technically isn't possible so I'll bet that they just shoot 3 rounds. That will smoke up the face of the cylinder around 3 chambers and will also smoke up the frame around the barrel. It will also leave evidence of being fired in the barrel and forcing cone. However, that evidence can be removed pretty quickly with the proper cleaning solvents, which IMO is M Pro 7 and nothing else. I have not found ANY other gun cleaning solvent that works as well as M Pro 7, compared to Hoppes it's pure magic. BTW, it's also expensive at 40 bucks a quart but I value my time enough to pay for it.

If they actually had to fire 50 rounds, and I happen to have my 620 which has exaclty 50 rounds fired since it's last cleaning. You'll have a cylinder face that is mostly black with a slight hint of stainless still showing. In addition the underside of the top strap will have a black streak above the B/C gap and be grey to yellow gray from front to rear. In addition the recoil shield will be just starting to show a bit of smoke residue around the firing pin bushing. As for the frame, around the barrel it'll be showing patches of dark gray to near black in some spots but will also be showing stainless areas that are nearly clean. Finally, the exterior of the cylinder will just be starting to show a patch of precipitated lead that will come off with 5 or 10 strokes of car wax on a paper towel.

Now, as noted, on rare occasion S&W will shoot as many as 50 rounds through a gun in the event the sighting isn't to spec. or it has other issues that need correction. However, IMO that is actually rather rare. Fifty rounds will leave a revolver obviously dirty, not as filthy as 200 rounds but dirty enough that many will clean the gun.

Now, if you want a somewhat good indicator of a gun that has seen a lot of shooting the thing to do is check the recoild shield for permanent marks left by rounds bouncing on it during recoil. I have a model 620 with perhaps 2500 rounds through it and the recoil shield is showing a slight bit of shine at every spot where a round would contact it.

Another area that may provide a bit of a tell is the recess formed between the top of the barrel inside the frame and the underside of the top strap. That's an area that accumulates residue and it requires the use of a dental pick or similar tool to remove it. If you can see daylight here, someone was either extremely thorough in cleaning or you have a gun that wasn't fired much.

Finally, in regards to Buds cleaning up a used revolver and re-selling it as new. I do NOT think that this is very likely at all. They do a lot of business on the net and doing something like this would get around and cost them business. In addition, at retail there isn't much of a price difference between a brand new 686P and a lightly used 686P, probably only about 50 dollars. That isn't enough to cause them to try and pass off a lightly used gun as new.

IMO what you got was a brand new 686P that needs cleaning. No surprize there, I don't know of any gun manufacturere who cleans a gun after test firing it, at most they pack it in shipping grease and box it up. Fortunately, S&W isn't shipping over salt water by ship so you don't have to deal with the nasty shipping grease that some manufacturers use.
 
Dude are you OCD or what? You order a new 686 from Buds, a well known respected dealer and before you even receive it you start worrying about whether it is new or not. Now you receive it and "think" it is too dirty and go so far as calling S&W to ask how can I tell if my new gun is new? Get over it, does it really matter on a gun that you intend to shoot if it's had 3 rounds or 50 through it as long as it still works. Some of my favorite firearms are well used ex working guns that still shoot like champs, your obsession with "new" is going to severally limit your enjoyment of shooting sports.
 
Yes it is very possible that it is very dirty from the factory. I purchased a brand new 617 about 2 years ago that was filthy from after it was polished. It had polishing residue all over it that at first looked like the finish was screwed up.

I also purchased a 627 Performance Center gun about 3 years ago that was filthy on the inside as it had lots of metal shavings everywhere on the internal parts.

So don't worry too much if it is dirty. If you have the experience and ability, just disassemble it, clean it, lubricate it, reassemble, and enjoy.

If anything (on a new, modern Smith and Wesson), I would be more worried about factory defects than anything else.

But if yours shoots straight, and has no issues then great for you.
 
Hey thanks everyone. Took it to the range today and had a great experience. Regarding the power when using .357 magnum rounds, all I can say is "Wow!". It's a little cannon.

Mack, dude, didn't mean to upset you. Wow, take it easy man! ;)
 
Hey thanks everyone. Took it to the range today and had a great experience. Regarding the power when using .357 magnum rounds, all I can say is "Wow!". It's a little cannon.

I'm not surprized by the WOW if you've never shot a 357 Magnum before. That's been a mild version of the response I get whenever a semi shooter gets curious and wants to try the "baby" Magnum in my 620. I especially love it when it's a 9mm semi shooter who states they've been shooting for years and aren't bothered by recoil. You would think that my evil grin when I hand them the 620 loaded up with just one 357 Magnum would be a tip off but they always seem to feel they know what they are doing.

Now a tip if you have large thin bony hands like me. That is the monogrip that S&W sells for the 500 Magnum will make shooting 357 Magnums much more enjoyable with your 686. When I first purchased my 620 I tried it out with some 357 Magnums and after only 3 cylinders full called it a day, it was plain painful to shoot. Went home, logged onto this forum, and sought advice. After recieveng that advice I logged on to the S&W site and ordered the 500 Magnum monogrip and it's turned shooting 357 Magnums from painful to envigorating. BTW, the X frame shares grip frames with the K and L frames so it will slip right on and fit perfectly, however I found that tipping the barrel down at about 45 degrees makes the installation much easier with this style of grip. I'll also note that if the grip that came with your new 686 doesn't mount with a screw in it's bottom, you'll also need to order a saddle mounting clip for the monogrip. Spread the clip open and place it over the pin in the base of the grip frame.

BTW, if your new 686P has grips that mount with a screw from the side, it's another indication that you've recieved a brand new gun. Just recently S&W went from using a Hogue manufactured bottom mounting monogrip to a side mounting grip from, I believe, Uncle Mikes. As for why the change, it's likely a matter of who had the lowest bid.

Below is a link to the grip. Unfortunately I could not find a link for the saddle mounting clip that you'll probably need. Take a look in your box that came with your 686 for a U shaped piece of spring steel with a tapped hole in the base. If you don't have that you'll have to give S&W a call and they'll probably mail one to you at no charge. When I ordered my 500 Mag monogrip it did NOT come with that spring clip, however my 620 dates back to when S&W was using Hogue monogrips on the L frames so I already had that clip.

Product: Model 500 Impact Absorbing Hogue Square Butt Conversion Grips
 
I've bought new S&W revolvers. I've never seen what I would call 'filthy', but we must also accept that you are buying a gun that has been fired. 50 rounds seems extreme, but still does not bother me. From my perspective, the gun may have shown something- anything, maybe just a loose front sight, that requires a deeper look. This is a good thing. Until that point, it was probably only touched by a technician. If a problem was noticed, it was handled, adjusted and fixed by a serious S&W gunsmith. I'd rather have that one. You're fine. enjoy the gun.
 
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