Quick Question about buying a 686

John G C 1

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I let my friend shoot my 686-3 and she really liked it and now is thinking about getting one.

She asked me if I thought there was any reason not to just get a new one.

Other than the lock, which I see many people do not like, is it worth hunting down a used 686 or if money is not the issue for her would she be as well off with a new one as with an older one?

I have a sheet that lists the changes by model number and I just do not know if the changes are that significant to someone who wants a quality gun for general target work but is certainly not going to compete or shoot outside 25 yards.

What should I tell her? She is a currently shooting a S & W M&P 9mm.
 
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If it helps, I own a model 586-3, which is an excellent shooter, and I recently purchased a used model 29-10 with the lock and frame mounted firing pin. Although the model 29 is a .44 magnum rather than a .357, I do not see any difference in the quality of manufacture or accuracy from one weapon to the other. I sent the model 29 in to have the extractor replaced (I think the previous owner removed it and tightened it too much when replacing it, thus causing it to crack). It came back shooting as well as when it left, and I anticipate many years of excellent service from it. As an added bonus, your friend can look for a 686 plus and have a seven round revolver. I don't think that she would go wrong with either a new model or a good used one. Let the market and what is easily available dictate her choice.
 
I agree let the market be the guide, providing money is not a factor nor is there any other unmentioned restrictions. I was at LGS the other day and picked up a 686SSR. It was the only 686 I had seen in quite some time. I had the money, it was available and now it is mine.
 
If the question is whether or not the quality of the newer 686's is just as good, tell her not to hesitate. I recently bought a 686 plus 3" and have been very happy.

It's easy to get the impression reading things on the Internet that maybe a new 686 isn't "as good" as an older one. The lock was a non-issue for me (and many others). The accuracy of these is great and they are a fun and versatile gun as you already know with your -3. If there is ever anything wrong with it S&W Customer Service will make it right. Tell your friend she will be very happy with it (if she can find it in stock anywhere).

Here is a video of a popular YouTube shooter having fun with his 686 plus 3" (with lock), and hitting targets 80 yards out.

Smith and Wesson 686 - YouTube

Jim K.
 
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What ever edition (dash number) she buys, make sure the barrel is correctly installed. The usual error condition is over-tightened. The front sight is too far left, rear sight must be adjusted to full right to compensate.

The grooves on the top of the barrel should be equal on each side when aligned with the tang of the rear sight. One full line off is not close enough.
 
besides the 586/686 have a look around for a "K" frame 4-6 inch like a Model 19 or 66- most of us use .38 Specials for target work so the weight saved over the "L" frame will be appreciated- K frames are available out there and with the proper stocks I think your friend will be pleasantly surprised-
 
For what she wants to use it for, I don't feel she would go wrong no matter what model of 686 she finds. They are wonderful guns. I very much enjoy my 686-3 4".
Dave
 
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One thought if you look outside of the 686 line; stay with stainless steel finish. The blue, and even the matted finish, are less forgiving of rough treatment and hard cleaning.
 
I'll second the K-frame suggestion. For someone like a lady shooter, L-frames start feeling heavy much faster and as I doubt she will be running box after box of magnum loads through any gun, she really doesn't need that heft and bulk.

Let her shoot or at least handle someone's K-frame before she decides.

Ed
 
I bought a new 686, 4" last year. I knew I wasn't going to get rid of it, so I bought new. I wanted something that I could hand down to my son one day. Its a fantastic gun, so I was willing to spend a little more.

Good luck in your search,
 
Yes a 686 is great for general target work. If you happen to venture out beyond 25 yards it will still make holes. My own experience I was trading shots with my 686 and a Winchester 30-30 at a 2 liter soda bottle 100 yards away. I was half joking taking shots at the bottle with my 3" 686 and, to my surprise, hit the darn thing. No not on the first shot but I am ready to try more longer distance shots again that's for sure. I am the first owner of it (686-6 new in 2010). As far as the lock, no worries. As far as a canted barrel - look the gun over in person if possible before buying. Good luck.
 
As far as all the fuss about the new lock device I've heard I have a later model 686 with the lock that I shoot full house mags out of all the time and that has never been an issue for me at least. I'm one of those strange guys that buys 357s' and shoot 357s all the time. Reckon if I wanted to shoot 38s' I'd get me one of those. Engineer hit the nail on the head about the barrel twist on these as some will really cant the sight off to the left causing sight issues. Other than checking that out closely I'd say you're good to go on the 686. My 2nd favorite carry gun behind my 4"28-2 H/P
 
She shot my 686 and really liked it. I think she reacted as I did, which is to feel that the trigger was just better than what she had experienced before on other brand guns.

We've been looking on gunbroker. Now it seems to me that every gun I look at is slightly off in some way. When we email sellers they are often vague about lockup.

Many of the guns for sale have sights adjusted all the way over to the right, which may signal an overtightened barrel. My LGS guys says it could also mean the person is left handed. Does a left handed shooter sometimes need to adjust that way? Not sure about this left handed thing.

Would you say a picture of a gun where the rear sight is set off to one side is one to avoid?

I am thinking she should go new just to get the warranty in case there actually is a problem.

Can an overtightened barrel be reset or would it just then be loose?

Sorry for all the questions. New information leads to new questions.
 
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