Rattling 625

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Hello everyone, I bought a new 625-8 JM last week, and it's my first revolver, I've only ever had a few 1911s and one Beretta 92.

So I've only fired this thing once, about 100rds the day I picked it up, and it shot fine, much better than I can shoot. But it seems I've shot something loose in the lockwork.

I didn't notice before I shot it, as I wasn't really allowed to give it a good handling before I took possesion and walked accross the room to the indoor range.

So, has anyone else with one of these, or any S&W revolver, noticed a good rattle in the works? Any idea of what it could be? And should it go back to S&W?

Thanks in advance for your time.

Pics or it didn't happen, right ;).........
PART_1282607344187.jpg


18rds winny 185gr HP @ 25yds,
PART_1282609462594.jpg
 
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If it sounds like it's coming from the area around the hammer it is probably the hammer block safety. It moves up and down in a slot in the side plate. This is normal for Smith revolvers.
 
Interesting topic, I learn something new every day from this forum. My new Mod 686 has a very faint rattle when I shake it. It seems to come from the hammer area. I have not had a chance to fire it yet but was thinking of sending it back to S&W. Now I think I'll shoot it first and see how she performs.
 
Welcome to the forum. Nice shooting.
As akviper said, the hammer block has a little free movement and will rattle a little. If everything works fine and the gun shoots good I would not worry about it.
 
Could also be the trigger stop rod inside the rebound slide spring. Just a thought.

Bill
 
Thanks, fellas. I gave S&W a call this morning, and their tech said the same thing you guys did, it's the hammer block. I think it's likely that it was "freed up" more or less after the first range session, and that's why I didn't notice it before.

Thanks again.
 
Don't forget the lemon when you take your 625 to the range. Bite it regularly - especially before entering the office/store, if they have one. It'll keep that 'possum eatting poop out of a hairbrush' smile off your face. Seriously. You don't want folks at the range wondering about you...

This also occurs with a 627 Pro... and, even more so, if possible, with a 617. Want to save the cost of a lemon? Buy a Taurus... although then, it could be argued, you'd already have a 'lemon'!!! (TIC)

Good shooting - and enjoy your 625!

Stainz

PS That lttle rattler, aka the hammer block, came about at the end of WWII...
 
If you don't like the rattle you can add a little grease to the hammer block and that should help.
 
I have a number of different varieties of Smith revolvers. I have been a Smith man for a LONG Time. The Model 625 is one of the most satisfying revolvers I have. Mine are a 4" 625-8 J.M. Special and a 5" 625-6 Model of 1989.

I shoot mine with nothing but my own cast bullets. They give me the accuracy and performance I desire along with long life of my revolvers (lubricated cast bullets cause almost NO wear on barrels) coupled with low cost makes it a "no brainer" for me.

I shoot several thousand .45 ACP's a year through my revolvers.

I don't have a 3" 625, as yet, but that COULD happen. In the meantime, enjoy a FINE revolver.

Dale53
 
Thanks all, my next guestion is about snapping in.

Is dry firing OK without snap caps? or with out anything? So far I've been using fired cases.
 
Rimfires should never be dry fired.

You'll get different responses from different people on this question regarding center fires. The safest answer is to use snap caps.

Over the years, I have broken two firing pins (hammer mounted). I keep a spare along with it's rivet "in case". One of the revolvers that broke it's firing pin had been extensively dry fired over a period of several years. The other, not so much.

Cyllnder and Slide does NOT recommend that their frame mounted "extra length" firing pin be dry fired.

Apex says their "extra length" firing pins can be.

If you reload, you can save your split mouth cases, decap them and fill the primer pockets with silicone seal (the red is more obvious) then use a razor blade to shave the excess off flush with the case head. These last quite a while. They are easily re-newed.

Or you can just buy a set of the commercial ones (they are a bit pricey but work well).

Dale53
 
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I have been curious myself about the rattle, I learn so much from the folks here its almost mind boggling... I knew the rattle in my new N-Frame (325 TRR,M&P R-8) had to be normal since both were straight from the Performance Center. I just couldn't pinpoint the culprit, thanks again forum!
 
I just opened the box of a new Performance Center 327, 2" barrel, and the rattle is tremendous, to the point that I initially thought there was a lose screw or something inside the wood grip. Despite having read many here say "it's normal", I still cannot fathom how S&W ships, by design, an expensive gun like this making this sort of noise. I must say I am actually kind of upset. I find the noise mind boggling. Literally, it sounds like a left-over screw inside the wood grip cavity. The noise is not faint at all. I also have a 5" Performance Center 327, and after this experience I shook it and noticed that it too rattles pretty good. But it is not as noise as the 2" one. You might as well attach a little bell to the bottom of the grip.
 
Years ago, I bought a Rem 11-87 Premier Skeet shotgun when it first came out, and noticed that when it was very clean and lightly lubed, it would produce a loud clanking sound if shaken when locked open, which is the required condition off the station.

Since the gun design was new and not many people had seen one, I used the rattle as a "psych" by rattling the gun and expressing concern that it sounded awful and I hoped it wasn't going to blow up. It worked particularly well on one individual who was always trying to psych the other competitors when they were shooting, who then stood way back when I was shooting.

People who don't know how a gun is made but decide it is terrible "because it shouldn't make that sound when shaken" crack me up.
 
attn edu

Welcome to the Forum. Can't have enough new members. Hope to see more posts from you. As to the rattle, give Smith a call if it really bothers you. If their reply does not sit well with you, ask a local gunsmith what he thinks. It may cost some $ but you will get some peace of mind. Good shooting!
 
This question just keeps coming up. Why isn't S&W's word on this topic the "last word?"

From the FAQ section of the S&W web site:

"Can I dry fire my S&W handgun?
Q: Can I dry fire my Smith & Wesson?

A: Yes, except for the .22 caliber pistols which includes models 22A, 22S, 422, 2206, 2214, 2213 and 41.

.22 caliber revolvers such as models 17, 43, 63, 317 and 617 also should not be dry fired.

Q: Why can't I dry fire my .22 pistol or revolver?

A: Dry firing a S&W .22 pistol or revolver will cause damage to the firing pin."
 
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