really impressed with SNS coated bullets

[1sailor]

Went out and fired off 200 rounds loaded with the new SNS coated bullets today in a pair of .357 revolvers. I was using the 125gr FP sized at .358 on top of 5.2gr of Titegroup. First off (this is just a coincedence) they were hitting at the same point of impact as my favorite load using Hornady XTP's. That was just kind of a bonus. The thing that really impressed me though was how tightly they grouped. I shot at 50ft, 25yrds, and 35yrds with very little difference in the POI. At those ranges they were as good if not better than any groups I've ever gotten with the XTP's. Beyond 35yrds I have trouble seeing the little 1" orange dot on the target so I seldom shoot beyond that. To top it all off I don't recall noticing any smoke. I wasn't looking for smoke but they were obviously much cleaner than lubed bullets. At about 1/3 the cost of XTP's I think they're a heck of a buy.

 

[George_in_SD]

+1 on coated bullets!

 

[venomballistics]

Went the diy route with coating.
My jaw dropped.

 

[Moonman]

As time marches forward the demand for older waxy type lubes is going to dissipate.

More COMMERCIAL CASTERS are also switching to the use of COATED BULLETS.

 

[rwsmith]

Do coated bullets have......

Do coated bullets have any drawbacks?? What comes to mind is the 'moly' bullet fad that died out for several reasons. One being that if you decided to shoot moly bullets, you could ONLY shoot moly bullets. People also said it took more powder to get the same velocity as conventionally lubed bullets.

 

[Moonman]

rwsmith,

Moly seemed to leave messy barrels for many.

I only have used the HI-TEK process others are experimenting with POWDER COATING of the ELECTROSTATIC TYPE.

The process COMPLETELY ENCAPSULATES the lead projectile.


I reload with FINISHED PROJECTILES from Bayou Bullets and SNS CASTING.

I also SELF COAT with materials from Bayou Bullets, and Gateway Bullets can also supply you with either.


Black Bullets International, LNL Casting near Canfield, Ohio are recent commercial casters who converted to the HI-TEK process.


THE BLUE BULLETS company uses a different Polymer Process to coat bullets.


20 years of competitive shooter usage in Australia for the HI-TEK process projectiles.


Some of the casters sell SAMPLE PACTS of their wares to give the loader a chance to give them a try.

The CLEAN dies, equipment, hands, no leading, clean barrels have made me a convert for sure.


I'm awaiting some of the new HI-TEK "DRY MIX" SELF-COAT product to arrive from GATEWAY BULLETS and

I also need to order some more sample packs of some different 9 mm projectile from Bayou Bullets.


Donnie at Bayou Bullets recently added RED/COPPER, and GOLD coated to his line up, GREEN "GATOR SNOT" was his previous only choice.

The RED/COPPER and GOLD withstand more heat.


Give them a try, you just might like the results.

 

[1sailor]

After 100 younds through each pistol I'm not seeing anything in the barrels that's not supposed to be there. Looks as clean as when i'm shooting jacketed bullets. Mind you, I'm only loading to about 1150 to 1200 fps.

 

[venomballistics]

Do coated bullets have any drawbacks?? What comes to mind is the 'moly' bullet fad that died out for several reasons. One being that if you decided to shoot moly bullets, you could ONLY shoot moly bullets. People also said it took more powder to get the same velocity as conventionally lubed bullets.

I have yet to see any downside.
No powder contamination, guns clean faster and easier, velocities can be driven higher, no smoke, less airborne lead, and the ability to color code your loads for easy identification.
It's not a trade and seems a pure gain.

 

[Moonman]

venomballistics,

Now that a whole mouthful of truth.
The HI-TEK coatings are a WINNER TO ME.

I ordered some different 100 bullet sample packs of 9 mm projectiles
this morning from Bayou Bullets.

1:05 this afternoon, an e-mail from DONNIE, they shipped already.

God, I love that mans CUSTOMER SERVICE.

 

[venomballistics]

venomballistics,

Now that a whole mouthful of truth.
The HI-TEK coatings are a WINNER TO ME.

I ordered some different 100 bullet sample packs of 9 mm projectiles
this morning from Bayou Bullets.

1:05 this afternoon, an e-mail from DONNIE, they shipped already.

God, I love that mans CUSTOMER SERVICE.

I'm heavy on the powder coat variety.
Seems they both work to the same ends, with powder coat having the advantage of wider availability.
That seems to present a good option for those who already cast and are looking to get in on coating their own.

That said, I am still in the "where has this been all my life" phase of the discovery.

 

[Moonman]

venomballistics,

I have been purchasing FINISHED HI-TEK projectiles PLUS coating

my own castings with the product for DO-IT -YOURSELF, FOR A FEW MONTHS NOW.

I positively love the stuff too.

The POWDER COATING METHOD you are using has also been working just fine for many shooters.

JUST BE CAREFUL not to spill any of that type of powder, it can easily get everywhere and make a REAL mess.

FOR SOME IT WOULD MEAN DIVORCE COURT!

 

[Forrest r]

Do coated bullets have any drawbacks?? What comes to mind is the 'moly' bullet fad that died out for several reasons. One being that if you decided to shoot moly bullets, you could ONLY shoot moly bullets. People also said it took more powder to get the same velocity as conventionally lubed bullets.

Every pc'd bullet I've shot so far has had more/higher velocity than their traditional lubed counterpart in the same firearm, same cases, primers, powder charge, crimp. Perhaps the hi-tec coated bullets are different? I'm using the dry powder powder coat method with nothing more than a plastic bowl with air soft bb's in it and shaking them to get the pc coating before baking them.

The way the moly was used was a huge mistake!!!! The bullets should of never been coated. Moly is at it's best when it's used as it's intended, in the pores of the metal. I've used moly over the years to treat trigger groups, bolts and barrels.

Do some trigger work (spring change, polishing, etc) and try the trigger. Then moly treat all the moving parts, huge difference.

Polish the internals of a bolt some time & then moly treat the bolt body/fp & striker spring, it's amazing how much it cuts the lock time down along with having a more consistent stronger fp hit that can easily be proven with a chronograph.

The most important part of a bbl or cylinder is the leade of the chamber or where the bullet starts in revolver cylinders. Excessive heat & lead/carbon buildup in those areas destroys accuracy. Treat that area only with moly and it will:
Cut down on accuracy destroying fouling
Cut down on accuracy destroying heat

Moly isn't a bad thing, it just shouldn't be on bullets.

As far as coated bullets, I really like them. No smoke, no lead, no hard alloys or any alloy issues with the pressure/speeds of the bullet. The heating process in making the coated bullets anneals the alloys making them soft. They expand/seal the cylinders/barrels better/easier than their rock hard counterparts but the coating protects everything from leading. Clean guns, clean barrels, higher velocities for the same load/bullet and just as accurate but for a longer period of time (less accuracy destroying fouling).

 

[venomballistics]

I forgot to mention another advantage.

after loading cast, I always disassembled the dies for a good cleaning.
brushing with oil till all the lube build up was clear.

after my last session .. I disassembled all dies used, then put them back together.
there was nothing to clean

 

[Maximumbob54]

Do coated bullets have any drawbacks?? What comes to mind is the 'moly' bullet fad that died out for several reasons. One being that if you decided to shoot moly bullets, you could ONLY shoot moly bullets. People also said it took more powder to get the same velocity as conventionally lubed bullets.

The only thing I've found so far to the negative is if you shave coating off during seating then you may as well pull that bullet right then and there.

 

[Moonman]

Yes,

You must EXPAND/BELL the case mouth enough to not cut or injure the coating.

Chamfer the inside and outside of new brass helps.

Some can experience problems due to too much crimping.

 

[venomballistics]

The only thing I've found so far to the negative is if you shave coating off during seating then you may as well pull that bullet right then and there.

yeah, there is that.
But then I kinda toss that aside as we'd do this with traditionally lubed cast anyhow.

 

[Maximumbob54]

I agree with the above statements. I just wanted to put it out there. As tough as these coatings are to withstand the rifling and pressures in the bore it's funny how easy that knife edge will slice right though them. Since I'm always giving mention of the Lyman M-die I will say that I added one to my .40SW loading and I haven't shaved another one again yet. (knock on wood now that I said that)

 

[Moonman]

Maximumbob54,

I recently added some lyman "M" dies to my set ups.

I LIKE EM'.

 

[venomballistics]

as we speak, I have the last rack of 357's in the sleazy bake before I move on to bowing before the lathe, to see just how much steel I can manage to use correctly.

 

[David R]

I called and ordered some 30 and 32 cal bullets. The 32 are not coated, just traditionally sized and lubed. The 30 are a158 rnfp Powder coated bullet.

Going to try the 32 in a 7.65 Argentine Mauser.
The 30 cal in a 1917 Enfield.

I have been shooting cast in these guns for years. Will see how they perform compared to my own.

David