Reassembly tricks- Chiefs special

[38crackerjack]

Can anyone help me get the hammer block realigned w/ the slot on the side plate so I can seat the plate and finish this cleaning job?

 

[Rpg]

I have a system that's never failed:

Put all parts in a plastic bag.

Deliver bag and a six pack to my gunsmith.

Endure his laughter for a while

Take gun home fully reassembled.

Works for other models too

 

[RKmesa]

Welcome to the posting side of the forum.

Watch starting at minute 12:52 in the below YouTube Video:

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8062FLgJyMY[/ame]

Hope this helps,

 

[two-bit cowboy]

Welcome aboard from Wyoming.

Having only recently learned to do this myself, I'll offer the "Complete Novice's Guidance."

1. Hold your mouth just right! I'm not sure what's right, but you'll eventually get it right.

2. Lift your dominant foot off the floor. How far? Well, it depends.

3. Don't sneeze.

Now, get serious.

Put the lock in place with the pin about midway in the slot. Slip the side plate at an angle under the top of the frame and let the plate fall into place. If you've got the lock in the right spot it'll go easily (don't force it -- that won't help, and you won't be successful).

Apply this old idiom: "If at first you don't succeed, try, try, again."

 

[catadjuster]

I lay the hammer block in place at the highest position that it naturally wants to go on the tab and in front of the hammer. Then I take the sideplate and, holding it at an angle, I get the slot to engage with the block - at this point, the only thing the sideplate is touching is the hammer block. Then, keeping the angle of the sideplate fairly consistent, I slide the plate up to where the top tab will engage with the frame and then lower the plate into place.

If you feel any significant resistance at this point, start over at the beginning by resetting the hammer block. Take it slow and you will get it into place.

 

[ken158]

I lay the hammer block in place at the highest position that it naturally wants to go on the tab and in front of the hammer. Then I take the sideplate and, holding it at an angle, I get the slot to engage with the block - at this point, the only thing the sideplate is touching is the hammer block. Then, keeping the angle of the sideplate fairly consistent, I slide the plate up to where the top tab will engage with the frame and then lower the plate into place.

If you feel any significant resistance at this point, start over at the beginning by resetting the hammer block. Take it slow and you will get it into place.

This is the way to do it with a perfect explanation!

 

[sandspur6]

This is the way to do it with a perfect explanation!

YES! Perfect explanation. Well done.

 

[gwpercle]

I have a system that's never failed:

Put all parts in a plastic bag.

Deliver bag and a six pack to my gunsmith.

Endure his laughter for a while

Take gun home fully reassembled.

Works for other models too

I used a shoe box....when the Smith saw me walk in with it he would say " What have you taken apart today ? ". After making it right , he would then hand it back and say " When are you going to learn not to take them all apart like that ? " . One day he gave me a can of new spray gun scrubber and said " Try this new new gun cleaner....just spray it into the parts and action, don't take the gun all apart ! " . Oh that stuff was a blessing....I stopped taking them all apart after that .
A man has to learn his limitations.
Gary

 

[Double-O-Dave]

I lay the hammer block in place at the highest position that it naturally wants to go on the tab and in front of the hammer. Then I take the sideplate and, holding it at an angle, I get the slot to engage with the block - at this point, the only thing the sideplate is touching is the hammer block. Then, keeping the angle of the sideplate fairly consistent, I slide the plate up to where the top tab will engage with the frame and then lower the plate into place.

If you feel any significant resistance at this point, start over at the beginning by resetting the hammer block. Take it slow and you will get it into place.

Hi 38crackerjack:

Welcome to the Forum. The video provided by RKMesa as well as the directions provided by Catadjuster are spot on, and are the way that I disassemble and reassemble a J-frame revolver. I add the following tips for your consideration:

1. Make sure you use properly fitting screwdrivers. To me, nothing screams "Bubba" more than butchered screw heads.
2. Though tempting to some, be careful dry firing the piece with sideplate off. The sideplate supports the hammer pivot pin and without that in place, you risk snapping off the pivot pin which can be a very pricey, if not impossible repair.
3. When removing the sideplate, please use the screwdriver handle to the grip method. I know some people use a screwdriver to pry it up, but that's not the way I was taught, and it makes me cringe when I see someone pry vs. tap.
4. Use only finger pressure when reinstalling the sideplate. Don't force it. The sideplate should easily reinstall using light finger pressure if you have correctly reinstalled all of the internal pieces.

Good luck,

Dave

 

[38crackerjack]

To RPG: #1 Every time I hold my mouth that way, I seem to get slapped. #2 Can't do that, there is a Clydesdale standing on it presently. #3 See #2, Hay fever.

 

[38crackerjack]

Sorry, RPG, comment directed to Two bit. To all others, thanks for the support. I had seen the video posted before, but couldn't find it. My only comment on it is, it was helpful to a point, but that guy is sure "Ham-fisted". Anyhow I succeeded in the reassembly. Tried to post some pics of the beast I'm cleaning, but tablet and big computer won't share. It's a Chiefs Special Airweight, 4 screw, 1st style latch, alloy cyl. S/N 28192.

 

[Muley Gil]

Sorry, RPG, comment directed to Two bit. To all others, thanks for the support. I had seen the video posted before, but couldn't find it. My only comment on it is, it was helpful to a point, but that guy is sure "Ham-fisted". Anyhow I succeeded in the reassembly. Tried to post some pics of the beast I'm cleaning, but tablet and big computer won't share. It's a Chiefs Special Airweight, 4 screw, 1st style latch, alloy cyl. S/N 28192.

Welcome to the Forum.

If your revolver has an alloy cylinder, I wouldn't shoot it. They have been known to fail. Have you checked the cylinder with a magnet?

 

[625-7]

Watch the lighthouse lady

Yeah let a girl show you how to work on a revolver!

 

[bigggbbruce]

I lay the hammer block in place at the highest position that it naturally wants to go on the tab and in front of the hammer. Then I take the sideplate and, holding it at an angle, I get the slot to engage with the block - at this point, the only thing the sideplate is touching is the hammer block. Then, keeping the angle of the sideplate fairly consistent, I slide the plate up to where the top tab will engage with the frame and then lower the plate into place.

If you feel any significant resistance at this point, start over at the beginning by resetting the hammer block. Take it slow and you will get it into place.

and keep the gun tipped slightly to keep the HB in that position while you slide the side plate in place.

 

[38crackerjack]

It is an alloy cylinder, no magnet test needed. I have shot it, and will continue to, but only with .38 S&W short, or .38 Special Mid-Range Wadcutter target loads. I have several boxes of those, which I accumulated when I had a Colt Gold Cup Mk III.

 

[two-bit cowboy]

Ah, since it's one of the original alloy models, I'd put its ship date around late summer '53. I have 27621. and it lettered as shipping July 31, '53. Neat little lightweights. I'd like to see a photo when you get that figured.

Here's mine.

Enjoy yours.

 

[gwpercle]

One of my daddy's favorite comments " You aren't holding your mouth right "... he never gave me any instructions on which way was right ...So I'm not sure just how you are supposed to hold your mouth.
I haven't heard that comment in a long time. Thanks .
Gary