Rebarrel a pitted Model 13?

[Hapworth]

Have a problem Model 13-1 that slipped past my quality control checks when I bought it and has been my special needs, money pit, I will turn lemons into lemonade project since.

It's also a tack driver with a superb trigger, and I guess that and pigheadedness is why I'm sticking with it.

Main issue is a pitted charge hole that makes for sticky brass and near-impossible ejection for half-a-minute after fire, particularly with .357. I've tried several remedies to no avail, and so have procured a correct new cylinder for fitting.

Whatever pitted the charge hole pitted the barrel, too. It's light salt-and-pepper that runs the length of the barrel, but lands and grooves are still strong and shiny enough that the revolver's terrifically accurate.

When I bought the new cylinder, I picked up a new barrel, too; both were correct for a 13-1, in new, unused condition, and available together for a song.

Question is, do I pay to fit the new barrel when I have the cylinder fitted, or leave the current barrel in place?

New barrel would perfect the revolver stem-to-stern when it's already on the gunsmith's table for the cylinder fitting, and allow for resetting forcing cone/barrel gap, which is still in spec but at the outer edges of it.

Leaving it alone saves money and keeps in play a barrel that despite the pitting shoots darn straight.

Any suggestions or angle I'm missing that might tip the scales on e way or the other?

 

[bmcgilvray]

Lots of revolvers, both trash and treasures live around here. The pitted ones still shoot fine. Better'n I do, in fact. I'd leave it be.

But that's me. If the barrel will forever bother you and you see kicking yourself in the future for not switching when you had a new barrel, then go ahead and stick it on.

 

[jimmyj]

Change both barrel and cylinder

 

[chief38]

Tough call because if you put the better (perfect) barrel on you might sacrifice some inherent accuracy. I have a Colt Auto built right after WWl with a somewhat pitted barrel but since it shoots so damned nice I have never changed it - even though on this pistol it would just be a drop in part.

 

[ironhead7544]

I would change just the cylinder first if the barrel is still good. The barrels are getting harder to find so would save it until really needed.

 

[sodacan]

I would sell the gun, the barrel and the cylinder. You'll likely recoup most of the cost to replace yours with one in better condition. I know yours is a dash one, but I recently bought a P&R dash two for under $400. It was a CAI import and was in excellent condition mechanically and cosmetically, except for the import marking. The stocks were even numbered to the gun. The model 13 is a great revolver. Good luck.

 

[H Richard]

Pitting seldom affects accuracy. Keep it clean and it will continue to shoot great. On the chamber hole, make sure it is clean and "polished" out smooth. If the pitting in the chamber is deep, it is possible the brass is flowing into this and that is causing your extraction problems. If so, changing the cylinder should help. Be sure to use the old extractor and rod which is fit to this gun, and your instal should not be a problem.

 

[tomcatt51]

This usually starts a firestorm but I'd firelap the pitted barrel and see if that smooths it out acceptably.

 

[supan0va]

do the cylinder. keep the barrel for when you absolutely need it. that's what I would do

 

[tomcatt51]

Pitting seldom affects accuracy. Keep it clean and it will continue to shoot great.

I certainly agree pitting is usually NOT an accuracy issue BUT it frequently DOES create a fouling issue, be it leading or copper fouling. That's why I'd firelap and see how it looks/shoots and how clean the bore stays.

 

[k22fan]

Before deciding whether to install the new barrel evaluate how well the new cylinder fits. Install the new cylinder on your old yoke using your old ratchet. If it has end shake install end shake washers or stretch the yoke, then measure the B/C gap. If there is no or too little gap file metal off the barrel. Be careful to keep it square or buy a reamer made for the purpose. If the gap is too large the barrel would have to be set back. Setting a barrel back requires the same labor as installing the new barrel. Installing the new barrel can even be less labor because when you set a barrel back you may have to shorten the extractor rod and center pin which is best done in a lathe.

Ordinarily barrels are lathe turned to fit both the frame and cylinder. Usually replacement cylinders that drop in with inadequate B/C gap are only shortened in a lathe when the new cylinder is an auxiliary cylinder chambered for a different cartridge.

A year or two ago S&W quoted $100 to install my used barrel including return shipping but I would have had to overnight my revolver to them for about $45, so roughly $150. Fitting the new cylinder would be extra.

Selling off the 13 and parts then buying a better revolver may make better financial sense but when I had problem S&Ws I paid what it took to make them right. After all it is your project.

 

[usnrigger]

Id probably change both as you have both parts and its already on the smithys table. if you didnt have the cylinder problem and the barrel was pitted but shot fine id leave it, shot it and enjoy it.

 

[Rockets]

do the cylinder. keep the barrel for when you absolutely need it. that's what I would do

I would second this opinion.,,

 

[Big Cholla]

You are already absolutely going to have the cylinder changed. It makes good sense to me with the new barrel in hand to change out the barrel at this time. There is a chance that the old barrel would have to be set back a turn to fit the new cylinder. Skip all that and get the cylinder and barrel done at the same time by a competent pistolsmith. It won't add much to the cylinder price only to add the barrel. .................. Big Cholla

 

[Hapworth]

Many thanks all for the replies.

Took the 13 to my revolversmith and his assessment was to rebarrel due to depth of pitting and cylinder fitting.

So there it is; he's top-notch and not inclined to recommending unneeded work. At least I'll be getting that kinda-sorta out of spec barrel-cylinder gap taken care of in the deal.