Rebound spring guide/triggerstop?

[WhistlerSWE]

I disassembled my 629 Classic Champion today.
I noticed that inside the rebound spring there is a pin, that might work as some kind of triggerstop or something.

None of my other S&W revolvers has this pin.

Is it something that comes only in certain generations? Can it be ordered in different lengths for all revolvers?

 

[Nightowl]

Pretty common in N frames, especially 27 & 29. I don't think they put them in there any more, at least my guns did not have them. Of course, these are all made before 1999.

 

[WhistlerSWE]

So what is the function? A triggerstop?
Is it safe to remove, adjust or lengthen it?

 

[Leonard]

Trigger stop

 

[WhistlerSWE]

Would it be possible to insert a longer pin and thereby momentarily render the gun DAO for PPC shooting?

Cocking in SA seems to pull the trigger further back, so if the rebound slide was forced to an earlier stop, this should mean that I could put a longer pin in and file it down so it just releases the trigger in DA pull, right?

 

[judge]

Why not just leave it as is - there is nothing wrong with it.

 

[H Richard]

If you insert a longer pin it won't allow the trigger to go far enough to fire the gun. The purpose it to stop over-travel.

 

[Engine49guy]

So thats why N frames dont have a cutout behind the trigger ?

 

[Nightowl]

You can fix and install a longer pin to turn the gun into a double action only gun. I once used a cut off nail, but it was not hard enough and compressed slightly. Don't want that to happen. I abandoned the idea, deciding I did not need it that bad.

 

[WhistlerSWE]

If you insert a longer pin it won't allow the trigger to go far enough to fire the gun. The purpose it to stop over-travel.

If filing a too long pin down so that the trigger will go just far enough to fire in Double Action, then it would eliminate over-travel completely, wouldn't it? For competition, this could mean a whole lot, since reducing overtravel can stop the muscles in the index finger and hand. The more dynamic muscle tension during the firing sequence, the more movement on the revolver, and we don't want that.

 

[WhistlerSWE]

There we go; a couple of hours of trial and error and now I have a perfect triggerstop without overtravel!

I measured the existing pin in my 629 and my caliper told me it was exactly 2.50mm. I immediately thought of a packet of rivets I had lying, and indeed: there was a rivet with 2.50mm diameter.

The factory pin was 17.76mm long (0.700"), so it was just a matter of cutting the rivet off and file it down to a rough 19mm. I fitted it, and it was of course way too large. I continued to file and fit it until it was down to 18.30mm, where I just had to do some fine adjustments.

I still have SA function, and the DA is totally wonderful. There is NO overtravel at all when the hammer falls!

Actually I liked it so much I made another one just like it for my Model 625.

 

[GLV]

Works

Sure it works, but as I carry my revolvers daily, I use something much simpler and IMO less likely to ever cause gun not to go bang.

A piece of pencil eraser glued to the trigger guard behind the trigger. Two of the guns I am carrying today have this mod. I started using this mod about 20 years or so ago. Always worked great.

 

[a357magnum]

Not just in the N frames. My 617 and 629 but not the 686. The 617 was made in November of 09 and the others in 08 so it's not something they did then quit. Maybe it depends on that particular gun or who's putting it together.

 

[WhistlerSWE]

Yes, it does seem to be inconsequential, my 625 did not have the triggerstop pin.

All my guns are strictly for competition, we are not allowed handguns for hunting or carry in Sweden, so I would rather have an internal triggerstop.

 

[user]

Those pins were available in different lengths, and have the effect of an adjustable trigger stop. Some guns use screws in the frame or back of the trigger to do the same thing. Smith's method causes less damage and is less likely to change over time. If you send a gun in for their "master revolver action package", installing one of those pins is part of what they do. I wouldn't take the pin out unless you're sure you want excess trigger travel.

 

[WhistlerSWE]

Take out? I wrote I just put extended ones in!

 

[snake charmer]

I have been using longer pins cut from .093 diameter drills for over 30 years in my competition guns to eliminate the single action function. My N frame guns usually need pins about .720 in length and L frame in the neighborhood od .705. This mod does not cause the gun to mise fire.

 

[WhistlerSWE]

snake charmer: Excellent! Thanks for the specified measurements. I'll continue working towards that perfect triggerstop.

 

[tdan]

Be careful when you are fitting a longer stop rod. You do not want to have it just long enough to be able to partially engage the trigger sear/ hammer ledge. You will quickly ruin your single action pull. Every N-frame that I have has one of these rods, and they are always shorter than they could be. Personally, I prefer minimal over-travel in single action. I install replacement rods that give me a perfect single action break. I use old 7/64th(.109) drill bit shanks that I will polish down a bit. The factory stop rods go .100 in diameter. Once I have a rod that needs just a bit of final shortening, I will chuck it up in the drill press and touch it up with a hard stone. Again.........watch the clearance on your single action surfaces with the trigger pulled fully back. Check again for any surface drag once the sideplate is back on.

A perfectly fitted stop rod will give you a superb single action break and take out plenty of overtravel in double action, as well. The reason the factory does a lackluster job at this, is that this simply requires to much handfitting..........No problemo!.........The ingenious design of the rebound slide in S&W revolvers enables one to easily tune up trigger overtravel issues!

 

[ol timer]

Tagged for reference.