Recommendations for best AR-15 Muzzle Brake?

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Hello. Brand new to this forum... Brand new to AR's (so please be gentle). I am seeking to add a Muzzle Brake to my S&W AR-15 Sport II (5.56 NATO- 1/2x28). I've read several reviews that rate the effectiveness of recoil reduction, muzzle climb as well as concussion noise to the shooter. I'm leaning towards the Dead Air Armament Key Mount (based on the reviews). Does anyone have any thoughts or recommendations? Would appreciate your feedback. Thanks!
 
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I have a few Dead Air Keymo mounts on my AR’s to attach my son’s Sandman S suppressor. These can be had from $80.00 and up, depending on the manufacturer and any sales you might catch. I don’t find $80.00 worth of improvement when firing these guns without the suppressor. The 5.56 guns actually sound louder to me. You might want to investigate a muzzle brake/heavier buffer/custom buffer spring combinations to accomplish your goals. A mid length gas system helps, but your M&P is carbine length.
 

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What are the goals you are trying to achieve by adding a muzzle brake?

Generally speaking, I prefer flash hiders to brakes, because most brakes increase the noise and flash of a shot vs just a standard A2 flash hider. That being said, my competition AR has a brake on it (Midwest Industries 2 Chamber brake), because it does slightly reduce muzzle climb in rapid fire.

If you are planning to mount a suppressor, then you will want a muzzle device that acts as a mount for the suppressor. If you aren't going to be adding a suppressor, muzzle devices that don't double as a suppressor mount tend to be less expensive, since they require less machining.
 
Aside from the use as a suppressor mount (and there are other options), the use of muzzle brakes on ARs-in 5.56 x 45 mm- is generally done by those playing various gun games where they're worried about hundredths and thousandths of a second per target/stage. Those add up over multiple stages and can make the difference between trophy and no trophy.

As noted above they generally increase muzzle blast & flash with little practical benefit for the vast majority of folks. At one "duty gun" match a guy showed up with one and had to get the Match Directors permission to use it. He looked, giggled, and gave the OK. I happened to be passing by when he fired a stage where the firing point had a roof. The muzzle blast was enormous even at a distance and the flash lit up the firing point. In short, there are better ways to spend your money at this point in your experience with ARs. Practice ammo/training being just two.

OBTW, dunno where the guy finished but all he got was a door prize.

Added: there is one muzzle attachment that sees some use on entry teams. It kinda looks like a soda can and directs the flash/blast forward. Dunno if it has any other benefits. Troy makes it and calls it the Claymore.
 
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I like and my go too are VG6 Precision and Dead Air. As to some if the points others have made, while breaks aren't specifically designed to reduce muzzle blast, they often do redirect the blast out of the shooter's view while helping keep the rifle flat while rapid firing.

I can't tell any noticeable difference between my ARs with the standard and traditional A2 flash hiders and my VG6 Precision or Dead Air muzzle breaks with regards to sound.
 
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I don't own any suppressors, so no brake that will accept 1. If forgoing the hiding of flash and only wanting reduced recoil and barrel movement I'd recommend only 2, ultradyne and lantac dragon (depending on which 1 it does accept a suppressor). I've used both on barrels from 11.5 to 24" w/5.56 nato and hornady 75bthp's superformance ammo.
 
Brakes suck. And everyone around you will hate you.

You want to reduce recoil AND blast?

YHM Turbo K

Turbo K-RB 5.56mm Suppression System



I run the Dead Air Xeno muzzle devices, but there are a variety of options available.

Suppressors are legal in NH, and wait times are shorter than ever, so why not?
 
You want a flash hider, not brake on 223/556, and the A2 does the job.

Yep A2 birdcage is what I roll with. Then again I really like the whole A2 configuration. That’s what my go to AR is.

Even when mag dumping with the ARIZONA REGULATOR in it there’s not really any appreciable muzzle rise with a birdcage flash hider

[ame="https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=W4E1Eze3VpY"]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=W4E1Eze3VpY[/ame]
 
Why do you believe that you need a new muzzle device? What issues are you seeing with the factory configuration? The recoil of a semi-auto .223/5.56mm is very mild and muzzle climb isn't particularly violent.

If you are new to ARs, I'd recommend spending your time and money on ammo, the range and education. If you can find decent carbine class by you, take it before you "accessorize" your rifle. Once you gain familiarity with the rifle, it's capabilities and limitations (plus yours), you can accessorize efficiently and effectively.

If you have $ burning a hole in your pocket I'd recommend
a cleaning kit and quality lube
Good magazines (PMAGs, Tango Down,etc.)
A sling (VTAC ,VCAS, Ferro Concepts)

Once you get some education:
An Optic (your needs will drive the type)
A light and Rail if needed
 
I find the recoil of a well set up AR15 in 5.56 or 223 to be minimal even for quick follow up shots at distance . No reason to add a muzzle brake for me . I use only a flash can on our AR's but you may want to read up on linear compensators as an option if you feel the need for something different on your AR .

Many of use hate to sit near someone with a muzzle brake on a firearm .

So perhaps you want to go ahead and get start with the prosess to buy a suppressor and the paper work . Or study up on linier compensators and buy one of them .

I only use a flash hider onour two ar15's and a ar9 .
 
If, for whatever reason you feel you want/must have a muzzle brake, let me suggest you go to Southern Precision Tooling's site, and spend some amazing time viewing the videos demonstrating their HU-DU model-----for AR's, on up to the BIG thumpers!! Of particular interest will be those of AR's on full auto demonstrating NO muzzle climb!! Then there's one showing a BIG thumper being fired with the butt held against the shooter's cheek. You will come away knowing they WORK!

As to their other talents, I managed to mess up the cylinder stop screw on a Triple Lock Target, so took it over to them to have a new one made. They fixed my mess instead, and if memory serves, the charge was a whopping $5.

Color me impressed---with everything!!

Ralph Tremaine
 
I say go with an old school 3 prong flash suppressor like the early Vietnam era M16, or early SP-1. They just have the "cool factor" going for them plus it's a functional accessory that works.
 
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