Refurbishing my Mod 10-8

Mine is a Victoria PD trade in that I got for $220. I would like to have the frame color case hardened and the barrel and cylinder finished in the bright shiney blueing. But I can't put mine down long enough! I just loaded 500 more for it to grind up.
 

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I think you will be happy with the redo on your model 10. The refinish will use a similar process as original, and (for safety reasons, and since they have to disassemble it anyhow) they will automatically go through the mechanicals and let you know if anything needs to be repaired or replaced. Fortunately the factory still seems to have the older forged parts, for now.

I have had two fairly modern guns go through the process and was very happy with the results.
 
I have a Model 10-6 4" Heavy Barrel whose finish looks like the O.P.'s. It is a used leo trade-in. It had wonderful smooth action from being shot for so many years. Shortly after I got it the cylinder would bind up and stop rotating after three rounds. I contacted S&W and sent it in for repair. I asked about rebluing it but they told me they did not do it on gun this old.

Pro; The factory corrected what they called "ammo binding." It appears they installed all new internal parts including trigger and hammer.

Pro; The gun functions perfectly like a new one out of the box.

Pro; It only cost me a little over $100.00 for repairs.

Con; The wonderful smooth action from over 30 years of shooting is gone as the gun now has all new action parts.

In the end I am glad I did NOT get the gun reblued. If I had I would have it stored in the safe to keep it in mint condition. Instead I have a nice gun for both range shooting and carry.

p.s. I have been looking for a long time for another Model 10 in the same condition as the O.P. to match my current one.
 
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Con; The wonderful smooth action from over 30 years of shooting is gone as the gun now has all new action parts.

I'm guessing the factory replaced the parts with MIM parts, in which case, obtaining a smooth action would not take more than a few minutes for someone competent with stones to fix. My experience with MIM parts are they are already very smooth, as there is no machining done to most of the part surfaces. I've found working on them very easy and doing a action job easier than the older forged parts.
 
I vote for the re-finish. It's why I shave every day and look so darn good!

Not a bad idea to have a LE turn-in looked at on the inside. Those guns have been holstered through a lot of bad weather. Yes, they'll function, but some posters have mentioned EDC. My casino 64s, altho unfired when purchased, were caked up with hardened lube in the interiors. Seems that passed for maintenance by the security staff. After cleaning out, 2 of the sweetest DAs ever now. Refitted with magnas and T-grips. Oh my. ;)

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103
 
I refinished a 10-8 a few years ago. Photobucket is gone so you can’t review my post, but I’ll repost pics with Flickr this weekend. It was pretty beat up. I had it done at a local place so I didn’t have to send it in. I do wish I had sent it to Smith just to get a once over but it shoots perfectly. It came out looking new. I do shoot it every now and then but never holster it.
 
I haven't heard about this. What's it all about?

Supposedly ammonia based products will affect the newer blue on guns. Best to use some of the newer environmentally friendly cleaners. I know I use MPro 7 when I clean my refinished 10-8. Hoppes for everything else.
 
Supposedly ammonia based products will affect the newer blue on guns. Best to use some of the newer environmentally friendly cleaners. I know I use MPro 7 when I clean my refinished 10-8. Hoppes for everything else.

This is a new one to me. Just bought the blued 586 L-Comp; I'll stop the #9 and try the Hoppe's Elite which I was advised to use on the 340s, I forget why. Many thanks, partner. Stay safe.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103
 
Interesting. Have never heard of that. I'm aware of the no ammonia products on nickel plated guns.

I use MPro7 to clean on every gun I have.
 
This is a new one to me. Just bought the blued 586 L-Comp; I'll stop the #9 and try the Hoppe's Elite which I was advised to use on the 340s, I forget why. Many thanks, partner. Stay safe.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

No problem. Better safe than sorry, right? I know for a fact that gunscrubber will remove the clear coat on the 642 because I’ve seen it. I called S&W and they told me to use nothing but oil to clean the gun! Not even Hoppes # 9! Personally, I think any finish that is harmed by one of the oldest gun cleaners out there should not be used on a firearm. My 10-8 is clean with MPro, but guns just feel clean to me unless they smell like Hoppes when I’m done.
 
For at least 30 some odd years I've always used Hoppe's #9 and Rem oil. I've tried other products but nothing beats these two.

Here's my take on these products I've tried

Ballistol- Works great/smells terrible, hard to find

Mpro7- works good but may have to use elbow grease/odorless makes it more wife friendly

Gunscrubber- I use this on occasion to deep clean trigger action on my M&P's and other hard to reach spots/will destroy scratch resistant coating if it gets on your glasses.
 
No problem. Better safe than sorry, right? I know for a fact that gunscrubber will remove the clear coat on the 642 because I’ve seen it. I called S&W and they told me to use nothing but oil to clean the gun! Not even Hoppes # 9! Personally, I think any finish that is harmed by one of the oldest gun cleaners out there should not be used on a firearm. My 10-8 is clean with MPro, but guns just feel clean to me unless they smell like Hoppes when I’m done.

Have used GunScrubber for years. Only problem: it removed the KlearKote finish on a 342, the ultra-lightweight .38 model. No problem with the 'sister' 337 ultra-lightweight. Too many posters report finish damage on their 642s, fortunately, I haven't had any on my 3. Darned if I'm going to use oil by itself to clean a revolver and certainly NOT in the chambers. Agree with you on finishes 'damaged' by Hoppe's #9. Check 6, partner.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103
 
For at least 30 some odd years I've always used Hoppe's #9 and Rem oil. I've tried other products but nothing beats these two.

Here's my take on these products I've tried

Ballistol- Works great/smells terrible, hard to find

Mpro7- works good but may have to use elbow grease/odorless makes it more wife friendly

Gunscrubber- I use this on occasion to deep clean trigger action on my M&P's and other hard to reach spots/will destroy scratch resistant coating if it gets on your glasses.

I don't even try to find Ballistol at local retail level as it never seems to be available. So:

Robot Check

Amazon always has it.:)
 
10-6 and 10-10 Paired up !!

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I have a 10-10 and a 10-6 paired up that are police trade-ins, I would like to have both of them polished and re blued or maybe engraved. My son's and I bought a bunch of them a few years ago at $209 each. I've had custom made holsters and smooth elk grips made for both. So any thing to enhance the beauty or the service I don't think will de-value these revolvers at all. Their not Triple Locks or Registered Magnums and like the man said "There's over six million of them" We bought'em to shoot, and we've have enjoyed them. I preferred the square grip and the firing pins in the hammers, one son like the round grip frames and the internal firing pins. The other son has no preference as long as it goes BANG !!! So you now know who got stuck with the internal locks. LOL Age is the same thing as seniority !!!! For what we have invested in these revolvers and what enjoyment we have received, we can't go wrong as to what we do to them.
 
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