?????? regarding M&P, pre model 10

[Vanman]

I've been feeling nostalgic lately and thought that it is time to add a "pencil barrel" Model 10 to my collection because that's the type of handgun that I first learned to shoot with in 1971 when I got out of Uncle Sam's Army.
I started at my local pusher's shop todau and he had 3, 5 screw "M&P"s.
#1 got my attention real quick because it has a 5" bbl. Ser # is 5038XX. When he showed it to me I first noticed that it is quite dirty and shows considerable holster wear. That didn't turn me off because I want it for a shooter and figured that I could get a good deal. What did concern me though is that the timing/lock up is bad. I figured that a new hand could fix this up but when i asked "How much" to repair the timing problem, I was told that a new hand for this old gun would be tough to find. When I examined the gun closer I noticed that the barrel was marked 38 S&W cartridge even though the cylinder took 38 Specials. Would this indicate a replacement barrel? It also had replacement grips.
Gun #2 was also a 5 screw but with a 4"bbl and also has lots of holster wear. The bbl was marked 38 S&W Special and had a matching serial #, unlike the 5" which had no serial #. But this gun was missing the top sideplate screw. Would a replacement screw be difficult to find/fit?
Gun #3 was also a 4" with matching serial #, all screws, what appears to be original grips, holster wear and slight pitting, but 2 of the chambers did not lock up properly which indicates another worn hand.
I'm interested in any and all feedback as my knowledge of these old classics is VERY limited.

 

[Vanman]

I've been feeling nostalgic lately and thought that it is time to add a "pencil barrel" Model 10 to my collection because that's the type of handgun that I first learned to shoot with in 1971 when I got out of Uncle Sam's Army.
I started at my local pusher's shop todau and he had 3, 5 screw "M&P"s.
#1 got my attention real quick because it has a 5" bbl. Ser # is 5038XX. When he showed it to me I first noticed that it is quite dirty and shows considerable holster wear. That didn't turn me off because I want it for a shooter and figured that I could get a good deal. What did concern me though is that the timing/lock up is bad. I figured that a new hand could fix this up but when i asked "How much" to repair the timing problem, I was told that a new hand for this old gun would be tough to find. When I examined the gun closer I noticed that the barrel was marked 38 S&W cartridge even though the cylinder took 38 Specials. Would this indicate a replacement barrel? It also had replacement grips.
Gun #2 was also a 5 screw but with a 4"bbl and also has lots of holster wear. The bbl was marked 38 S&W Special and had a matching serial #, unlike the 5" which had no serial #. But this gun was missing the top sideplate screw. Would a replacement screw be difficult to find/fit?
Gun #3 was also a 4" with matching serial #, all screws, what appears to be original grips, holster wear and slight pitting, but 2 of the chambers did not lock up properly which indicates another worn hand.
I'm interested in any and all feedback as my knowledge of these old classics is VERY limited.

 

[pace40]

While the repair to these may be minor, since your stated purpose is shooter only, my advice would be to have patience till you find one you can take from the shop the the range and shoot. There were millions of this model made. A fully functional shooter grade one will turn up in no time.

 

[azmick]

I noticed that the barrel was marked 38 S&W cartridge even though the cylinder took 38 Specials

indicates a rechamber, not a good thing
around here {Phoenix metro area}, $150 would get the timing issues taken care of. if you paid $100 for the gun and added the repair in, you would have too much in it. Pace40 is right

 

[mikepriwer]

Generally, as Mike and Az said, I would pass on all three. Timing issues can be
more than just the hand - it can be the notches on the extractor star which
engage the hand, or it can be excess headspace gap, causing the cylinder to
sit too far forward. This latter condition can happen with a replaced barrel.

Specifically, of the three, the second one is the best - ASSUMING that the threads
on the top sideplate screw are not damaged. That screw is easy to find. If you were
going to buy that second one, see if the store will let you take off one of the other
two - after all, a gun should have all its screws ! At the very least, test it out,
to check for thread damage.

Later, Mike Priwer

 

[Vanman]

Thanks for the replies. It's always good to get input from the members here.