Reloading 9mm Luger

Seems a lot of misinformation in this thread?

Roll crimping anything that headspaces off the case mouth is asinine.

The seating die with your die set will perform an excellent taper crimp.
 
I too am getting confused, I currently do not crimp 9mm or .40 s&w. Is this not good ? I've been loading .40 s&w for the past 3 years and never crimped, zero feeding issues in my Glock ? I do crimp my rimmed 460 s&w mag as it's mandatory to eliminate the possibility of the bullet being withdrawn from the case from severe recoil.
 
Its simple, really. On a semi-auto handgun, taper crimp, to prevent the bullet from seating deeper while being banged around from the guns action, and raising pressures. Also, to provide a case mouth proud of the bullet to headspace on. Most all pistol rounds do not have rims that extend past the body of the cartridge, and if you roll crimp, only the extractor is stopping the cartridge from falling too deep into the chamber.

Revolvers headspace on their cartridge rims, so a roll crimp is used to help prevent bullets from pulling forward under recoil, tying up the gun. It also helps with proper powder burn when using slow powders in magnum revolver loads.

The Lee FCD pretty much squeezes down the whole cartridge, including the bullet, to insure feeding in any chamber. It is not needed if your reloads are properly made from the get go, and it can have a detrimental effect on accuracy, especially on loads using soft lead bullets. If you have a particularly tight re-sizing die, thick brass, and a bullet that is at its full diameter, maybe even .001 over, you will likely see a slight bulge in the case at the base of the seated bullet. This bothers some folks, but does not hurt anything. A FCD will usually remove said bulge, but what its really doing is squeezing down that bullet you carefully matched to your chamber mouths / bore, with the resultant chance of increased leading and negative effect on accuracy. My 2 cents, anyway...

Larry
 
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This thread seems to confirm, "people don't read their manuals."

This is basic stuff folks.

Please read your manuals. There's lots of great info in those pages many seem to skip. The interweb has a great deal of useful info, but just as much very bad advice.
 
The company Manuals have tested data that is proven SAFE for all weapons and some even note accuracy loads.

You just have to watch out for data that starts out with............

"but I............"


read post #22, again.

Carry on.
 
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Since I'm using plated bullets I prefer to use the Western Powders & Load Data Guide that can be found on their site. They list data for Berry and Rainer plated bullets. Since I'm using X-Treme plated I find this data is what I need. Of course I'm using their powder.
 
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