Reloading for 45 ACP Revolver

RG45

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Need some advice on reloading for S&W 45 ACP Revolver.

I have shot and reloaded for 45 ACP semi-autos, but never shot nor reloaded for the 45 ACP revolver.

Are there anything special that needs to be done for the revolver as compared to the semi-auto? Meaning different type of crimp etc.

Also any suggestions on moon clips - meaning half moon compared to full moon, type of materials they are made of that are better than others, brands that are better etc?

Very newbie to 45 ACP revolver (I shoot other revolvers but not with clips)

Thank you
RG45
 
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I load exactly the same for my 625 as I do for my 1911. Well, almost (always that exception).

I've found that federal brass is too thick to drop freely into the cylinder when loaded in full moon clips. Winchester and RP work fine.

I've also found that RP brass is so thin that it has insufficient neck tension to prevent bullet setback when loaded in my 1911.

So I use Federal brass in my 1911, RP brass in my 625 (where there is no bullet setback issues), and winchester works in both.

I have one set of dies that I use for both, so I use the same bullets, powder, primers, seating depth, and crimp for both.

I've used S&W and Wilson moon clips, both work fine. You will need a remooner/demooner tool to load/unload them.
 
Basically nothing different in terms of reloading if the revolver is in factory stock condition. If the DA trigger pull has been lightened appreciably you may need Federal primers to insure reliable ignition. I use the Ranch products steel moonclips and they work well with my mixed brass reloads. A round nose bullet will facilitate faster reloads in the revolver while SWC's might have a tendency to hang up on the chambers edge.
 
Oh baby this is a good topic!

OK, I have a M625JM that I shoot all types of loads through it too!

This is one of the most fun firearms to shoot and handload for that I have ever shot. From "smokin' hot" to just making it out of the barrel. Versatile, very versitile!

Here are some pictures:

45bullets.jpg

The one in the middle is my favorite load to shoot in this firearm. It is an H&G #502 SWC over a healthy dose of SR4756 for about 1100fps out of the 4" tube. The one on the right is a 270gr SWC that I got from a fellow forum member Paul5388. (Great guy by the way!)The ones on the right are loaded in 45AR cases so they won't get used in any of my automatics! ;)
From 200gr LSWC to 270gr you can have a great time with this shooting platform.

Here are some other bullets that I have fooled around with in this firearm:
(click on video to watch)


These were taken out of some Thompson Center Sabots. They weighed right @ 250gr. They chambered easily and were exceptionally accurate. Mild recoil too.

5grUnique.jpg


SST45ACP1.jpg


I've loaded some 160gr LRNFP bullets with 3.5gr of Bullseye and they literally went "POP" instead of "BANG". Actually they went "POP" then "SMACK" at 20 yards! ;)

I have only used steel full moon clips but have heard that the "Rimz" brand of plastic ones work well too. No experience there.

As for a tool. Get yourself a piece of 3/8" CPVC pipe and put a flat on one end. Look at the tool that Midway (Brownells?)sells and make your own. You will have about $0.10 in it. ;)

Hope this helps!
 
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I load the same way for the revolver as for the 1911, I want the ammo to run in any of my guns.
I use Federal brass most of the time and haven't had any problems except the occasional case that cracks from old age/over use.
I don't remember the brand of full moon clips I use, they're steel and came about a hundred to an order.
 
I use any kind of 45ACP Brass and 45AutoRim in my cut for American ammo Webley-Green revolver. Good crimp with both varieties of brass, use lead 200 grain round-nose flat point lead bullets. The powder is Unique, six grains and the plates will drop. I prefer the older style half moon clips. Seems more appropriate for a revolver made in World War One.
 
Good crimp with both varieties of brass, use lead 200 grain round-nose flat point lead bullets.

Same here. Any bullet with a shoulder will hang up dangling from a moon clip if you are trying to reload in a hurry. Save SWC's for plinking.

I now use the 200 grain poly-coated RNFP's for all my .45 ACP loads. This allows me to use the same bullet in both my semi and revo loads, simplifying inventory.
 
I load a ton for the model 25 and I love to use the same load as my 1911s use. I do load a few 250 grain FNL bullets (use em for my cowboy guns) and they have a heavier smack at the far end of the range.
 
Thank you all for your replies.
Good information.

Is there any better re-mooning or de-mooning tools?
I have noticed several types and was curious what the experienced moon clip users are using.

Thank you again
RG45
 
I'll give you a little help!

OK, in my post above I gave you a suggestion to look for a moon clip tool from Midway. It was actually Brownells. Here is what theirs looks like:

352197100.jpg

They are $18 or so plus shipping.
I don't know much about these as I have never owned one. I'm on the cheap side and prestige isn't in my vocabulary so I make most of my own stuff! Those that have their noses in the air about that kind of stuff may just drown one day, given enough rain! ;)

Here is mine:
Demoonerclose1.jpg

I cut this ledge into the end of this piece of 3/8" CPVC pipe. This pipe is 10-12" long. I used a 1/2" paddle bit to ream it out so my cases would fall through it more easily.

Another shot:
Demoonerclose2.jpg

I unload the clips over a pull string bag designed to capture my spent cases. (They were built by my daughters from scratch, shoe strings for ties. My "mooning tool" is the big hairy thing in this picture!)

This is how you use it. Install like this and simply give it a twist. The ledge gives you a "fulcrum" and they come right out. Then they travel down the tube into the awaiting bag! Pretty cool!
Demoonerclosewithbullets.jpg


Hope this helps!
 
This is the first time I've heard of a 625 that will not function with Federal brass. My three 625s function with everything and anything out there in any steel moonclip that I have ever tried. Frankly I am amazed that the .45 ACP moonclip platform is so flexible and reliable. Most other cartridges will be very picky when moonclipped and cases will need to be sorted, but not with the .45 ACP.

You can use very light or heavy loads, within reason. I would suggest that if you plan to shoot very heavy loads you not chamfer the chambers, or if you must, then do it very lightly.

Dave Sinko
 
Smity Crazy

I like that.
A picture is worth a thousand words.
Great pics, makes perfect sense for the de-mooning.
 
This is the first time I've heard of a 625 that will not function with Federal brass. My three 625s function with everything and anything out there in any steel moonclip that I have ever tried. Frankly I am amazed that the .45 ACP moonclip platform is so flexible and reliable. Most other cartridges will be very picky when moonclipped and cases will need to be sorted, but not with the .45 ACP.

You can use very light or heavy loads, within reason. I would suggest that if you plan to shoot very heavy loads you not chamfer the chambers, or if you must, then do it very lightly.

Dave Sinko

Hmmm, maybe I have a problem with mine?

With federal brass, both my own reloads and factory federal ammo (hydroshok), moonclipped cartridges won't drop in the cylinder. I've tried loading them without the moon clip, and they still won't drop freely in the chambers, I have to push them in the last bit.
 
I load all my 45acp the same regardless of using it in the M625 or 1911. I do like the ability to use a 250grLSWHP in my M625 that won't feed as well in my 1911. At 850fps, it's a good performer in the 4" rev.
 
I think that I may be needing to look for some RN bullets for reloading, I am currently loading SWC.

I have seen tools for re-mooning as well, are then necessary, or is it just easier with the re-mooning tools? Also if they are needed which is a better one.

Sorry for all the questions, just have no experience with moon clips and their use.
Thank you
Roy
 
De-mooner

I made mine out of 1/2 inch copper plumbing pipe scrap, put an "L" on the bottom for a handle, with a piece of pipe in it maybe 3 inches long. Made the notched part about 6 or seven inches long, so it just holds 6 fired cases. Then you dump it into your brass can. Works like a charm, and >>>Free<<<. The $18 + postage for the factory made tool will buy another pound of powder. If your clips are hard to load, use 8 inch Channelocks to snap the rounds in.
 
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I like this tool for "re-mooning":

http://mooncliptool.com/

It also works well for "de-mooning" but I prefer this tool for that:

http://www.cactustactical.com/osc/california-competition-works-demooner-p-66.html

NOTE: The first tool will both re-moon and de-moon cases. The second tool will only de-moon but does two at a time in 2.5-3.0 seconds per clip.

I have and use both.

For range use, I use Auto Rim cases or if using ACP cases use the polymer RIMZ clips which can EASILY be done with only the fingers.

Dale53
 
If you're using cast bullets, try and match your bullet diameter to your revolver's cylinder throat diameters. Regardless of hardness, undersize bullets will produce leading.
 
I think that I may be needing to look for some RN bullets for reloading, I am currently loading SWC.
Roy

If I load SWC in my 1989 45 ACP I have to fiddle with the round to get them to enter the charge holes. But when I switched to LRNFP the problem went away. Now when I use full moon clips the rounds seem to jump into the cylinder
 
I love the 25 and 625 in .45 ACP - I can shoot nearly any bullet with no concern about feeding, cycling the action or picking up brass. I also favor the 300 grain RNFP - works perfect for me. I shoot the 25 with iron sights and the 625 with an UltraDot 30 - best of both worlds.

I made my demooner from a piece of 1/2 inch conduit - also long enough to hold 6 rounds. I polish all of my moon clips with the Dremel - makes loading and demooning smoother. I have no need for fast reloading so I usually use .45 AR brass.

I shoot a lot of Trail Boss in mine.
 
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