reloading problem

[fredj338]

9mm brass specs are all over the place. For the most part, I toss all foreign stuff but pmc, US brands only. Failing to chamber, if you have properly taper crimped, is either too long OAL or a case that is too thick or a case that has been fired in an over pressure load. So a case cage is great for checking a "fat" loaded round, it wont seat.
Make sure your dies touch your shell holder to size as far down as possible. With a case that has been over pressure, the case head will expand & only roll sizing or a pass thru sizer will fix that.

 

[fredj338]

9mm is a little tougher to reload than the two you mentioned. If you've picked up some "major 9" fired 9mm cases both the primer pocket and the case base may be bulged. Your sizing die will never be able to resize the entire case body.

I prefer a TC of .376 +.005. An important test with 9mm is to push the bullet tip of a loaded cartridge hard against a solid object. If bullet telescopes in you need to slightly increase TC until won't.

I agree except on crimp. A taper crimp by its design cant hold a bullet in place unless you ver crimp & damage the bullet. Proper neck tension is what holds the bullet, not taper crimp.

 

[199]

In the past I've had problems with brass originally fired in handguns with generous chamber dimensions. My sizing die couldn't reduce the expanded base of these cases enough to chamber successfully in a Sig.

My solution was Lee's carbide factory crimp die, which you run the case through after the case has been sized and the bullet is seated. In addition to crimping the case, it does a better job of ironing out bulges in the base of the case.

This worked for me, but it is an additional step when using a single stage press.

I'm thinking somebody, maybe Redding, makes a push through die that also sizes the case down an additional amount.

First, though, I'd find out where the problem is. Is it at the neck or at the base of the case?

 

[AlHunt]

Lets start on page #1.

1. Is the case .751 ~ .754" in length?
2. has the case been full sized with the die set correctly ?
3. was the belled case removed to flush, when seating the bullet?
4. was the bullet the correct Dia. for your chamber spec's ?

Good luck solving the problem.

I'd like to change my answer to this one, please.

He's right - most problems in life, including reloading, can be solved by going back to the fundamentals.

 

[HorizontalMike]

First question: do you have an cartridge/case gauge? If not buy one.

With that out of the way, you "bought a set of RCBS dies and followed all the same procedures I have followed for .38 and .40." OK, those are for all practical purposes, straight wall cases. 9 mm are tapered cases. You might want to read the directions that came with the dies and reset the sizing die per instructions. I screwed mine down until any case I resized dropped into the gauge and stopped right there. I don't believe it's set exactly as the directions.

You also mention you're using range pickup brass. Depending upon what the load was, the chamber it was fired in and/or the quality of the brass, the case just above the head may have become bulged. [Come to think of it, I had a buddy who's sizing die was adjusted to what I thought was over sizing and he used stiff loads. His reloads looked like tiny belted magnum rounds.] Often, the resizing die can't correct for this. However, your cartridge/case gauge will catch this during the loading process.

ALSO, I have found that the Redding Competition Shell Holders work wonders! These things have literally saved my Brass, no pun intended. It allows me to do a full length resize all of the way to the base, and then they drop right into the case gauges...

Redding Competition Shellholder Set #1 (308 Winchester 30-06

• Packaged 5 piece set in .002" increments (+.002", +.004", +.008" & +.010")
• Each shellholder is clearly marked to indicate the amount it will decrease case to chamber headspace.
• Set allows you to adjust case to chamber headspace of your reloads with a simple shellholder change.

 

[BillBro]

All of my auto pistol die sets are Lee and all have the FCD with the post sizing and I've loaded literally thousands of 9, 10 and 45 and have only had some 45's fail to chamber but that was due to a too generous OAL. I use any brass I can find, new brass, my brass, range brass, brass bought from others, whatever. I dont get fancy, I keep everything basic because without the basics nothing else will work. I even load for my CZ P01 and CZs are notorious for having short chambers but mine will load even my 147gr HST loads so maybe I got lucky. I also load A LOT of pulls so the post sizing really helps.

 

[MyDads38]

In all the years I've loaded 9mm, I've never had an issue in any of my pistols (S&W & Ruger). Lead, plated and jacketed bullets.
When Lee came out with the 4 die set with FCD, I upgraded all my Semi-Auto die sets (9, 40, 45). With the 40, you can remove the crimp plug and use it as a push through to resize either the brass case (Bulge Buster Kit), or you can push the loaded round through as well.
I only do this with 40; as I've never had an issue with 9mm, but you can do the same steps with 9mm if needed.
Otherwise, all the above suggestions should help get your problem solved. I do have a Lyman case gauge for all my Semi-Auto rounds and also for 223/5.56. And I also plunk my rounds, just to make sure.

 

[Poncho Catalina]

I have been reloading for over 30 years 9mm and 45acp for autos. Never had an issue, until I bought a 3914. Had the same problem. Checked rounds in a gauge and would not go all the way into case gauge. I sized the brass, then checked it before reloading. Found some brass would not go all the way into the gauge. My 5906 will eat anything even the rounds that would not chamber in the 3914. My brass if a mix of any and every thing. I find the make does not matter. I am using Dillon dies. As stated above it must be because of what it was shot in. I check all my rounds if it goes in the gauge, I can shoot it in anything if it does not, 5906. I am just glad the 5906 will eat it and I do not have to take back down

 

[HorizontalMike]

My biggest problem is resizing .223/5.56 brass, and that is where shell holders are used mostly. I do tend to load my .357 magnums hot, so sometimes I need them there also.

 

[jjfitch]

Start with the obvious before making yourself crazy!

Lets start on page #1.

1. Is the case .751 ~ .754" in length?
2. has the case been full sized with the die set correctly ?
3. was the belled case removed to flush, when seating the bullet?
4. was the bullet the correct Dia. for your chamber spec's ?

Good luck solving the problem.

This, plus be sure the size die is adjusted correctly. After the size die "kisses" the shell plate or holder turn it in another quarter turn to see if the the case head is properly sized. It really may only be a .001" or .002" over sized and be in spec. but that's enough to prevent entering the tight chamber.

I had a similar issue with .223 ammo in one AR. I even purchased RCBS small base dies to correct the problem. But when I rechecked my Hornady dies and turned in the additional 1/4 turn and I could use the standard die too!

Reloading is both a science and an ART!

Smiles,

 

[Ron IL]

The only problem I have had with 9mm is when I picked up a Springfield EMP 3". My Beretta 92 and Ruger would shoot anything I poke in it. I found some that would not chamber in the EMP. The chamber is very short throat. The rifling starts right at the end of the chamber. A fat profile bullet would hit rifling and stop. I was using 115 gr bullets. I tried some 125 gr and did the same. The 135 and 147 bullets had a slimmer profile and worked good. So I started loading with the 147 gr. All of the guns like them. I ended up using the barrel of the EMP as my gauge. I just traded it off so I don't have to worry about that anymore. The 147 is a longer bullet to so more surface area in the barrel. I am using .358 bullets and after shooting, the barrels look like they have been polished. Just push a wet patch in them and a dry patch and done. Absolutely no leading at all.

 

[PPCSHOOTER]

TRY EVOLUTION GUN WORKS DIES.THESE DIES SHOULD ELIMINATE THE PROBLEMS YOU'VE BEEN HAVING. BELOW IS A SNIPPET ON WHY THEY WORK SO WELL. JP

"A must for the serious reloader: EGW offers custom designed, carbide sizing dies that are 0.003" smaller in diameter than typical dies. Not only is it smaller in diameter, the bottom corner is radiused which sizes the case further down. This helps prevent feed failures from cases that bulged near the base during reloading- which is typical of brass fired in Glocks and other loose chambered guns. "

 

[george_lehr]

I had a batch of 9mm reloads that would not fully chamber in my Hi-Power with a Barsto barrel. I looked at the Lee Bulge Buster and learned that they do not offer one in 9mm luger because the case is tapered. I read on the internet that bulges in 9mm luger cases could be busted using a 9mm Makarov die. I bought one, but had GREAT difficulty pushing the 9mm luger cases through the die; and I was using and old heavy cast iron Lyman spartan press!
Quite by accident, I found that I simply needed to adjust my factory crimp die for a little more crimp to fix my reloads for the Hi-Power.
So now, when I set up to reload 9mm, I use the plunk test to set the factory crimp die and all is well.
George

 

[raljr1]

I had trouble with 9mm at first. Make sure the sizing die goes all the way to the rim...that was my issue. Different guns might be different too. I found that with my 1911a...some shells would chamber readily in one gun and not at all in another.

Robert

 

[scooter123]

Another potential cause could be your crimp operation. Many Single Stage loaders like to minimize operations because it can be a time saver. One way to do this is to combine the bullet seating and crimp operation. With a plated bullet this is IMO the wrong method to choose. Because your case will have a sharp corner on the ID at the end of the case. When you crimp the bullet at the same time you have that sharp edge closing down on the bullet at the same time as the bullet is moving into the case. The end result of this setup is a ring of shaved copper at the edge of the case end. A bigger thicker ring of copper has the potential to cause the round to "jam" in the chamber. The solution is to purchase and use a Lee Factor crimp die AFTER the bullet has been seated in the case.

BTW, those who do not believe this can be a problem should try loading a long case like the 38 special. Once that jacketing starts to get shaved the bullet will "stall" in the case and any additional travel will result in buckled case. With something like the 45 ACP the result can be a shaved ring with a sharp edge that can actually be felt because it's larger than the OD of the case. Note, this effect will happen with either plated bullets or jacketed bullets like the Hornady XTP.

PS; I keep a cheap 20X loupe picked up at a gun show on my reloading bench specifically to get a close look at my loaded rounds when something just doesn't feel correct.

 

[Jboutfishn]

Reloading all used brass requires checking case length. I run all used brass through the case trimmer, then clean up inside and outside of case mouth.