reloading problem

[Ron IL]

The only problem I have had with 9mm is when I picked up a Springfield EMP 3". My Beretta 92 and Ruger would shoot anything I poke in it. I found some that would not chamber in the EMP. The chamber is very short throat. The rifling starts right at the end of the chamber. A fat profile bullet would hit rifling and stop. I was using 115 gr bullets. I tried some 125 gr and did the same. The 135 and 147 bullets had a slimmer profile and worked good. So I started loading with the 147 gr. All of the guns like them. I ended up using the barrel of the EMP as my gauge. I just traded it off so I don't have to worry about that anymore. The 147 is a longer bullet to so more surface area in the barrel. I am using .358 bullets and after shooting, the barrels look like they have been polished. Just push a wet patch in them and a dry patch and done. Absolutely no leading at all.

 

[PPCSHOOTER]

TRY EVOLUTION GUN WORKS DIES.THESE DIES SHOULD ELIMINATE THE PROBLEMS YOU'VE BEEN HAVING. BELOW IS A SNIPPET ON WHY THEY WORK SO WELL. JP

"A must for the serious reloader: EGW offers custom designed, carbide sizing dies that are 0.003" smaller in diameter than typical dies. Not only is it smaller in diameter, the bottom corner is radiused which sizes the case further down. This helps prevent feed failures from cases that bulged near the base during reloading- which is typical of brass fired in Glocks and other loose chambered guns. "

 

[george_lehr]

I had a batch of 9mm reloads that would not fully chamber in my Hi-Power with a Barsto barrel. I looked at the Lee Bulge Buster and learned that they do not offer one in 9mm luger because the case is tapered. I read on the internet that bulges in 9mm luger cases could be busted using a 9mm Makarov die. I bought one, but had GREAT difficulty pushing the 9mm luger cases through the die; and I was using and old heavy cast iron Lyman spartan press!
Quite by accident, I found that I simply needed to adjust my factory crimp die for a little more crimp to fix my reloads for the Hi-Power.
So now, when I set up to reload 9mm, I use the plunk test to set the factory crimp die and all is well.
George

 

[raljr1]

I had trouble with 9mm at first. Make sure the sizing die goes all the way to the rim...that was my issue. Different guns might be different too. I found that with my 1911a...some shells would chamber readily in one gun and not at all in another.

Robert

 

[scooter123]

Another potential cause could be your crimp operation. Many Single Stage loaders like to minimize operations because it can be a time saver. One way to do this is to combine the bullet seating and crimp operation. With a plated bullet this is IMO the wrong method to choose. Because your case will have a sharp corner on the ID at the end of the case. When you crimp the bullet at the same time you have that sharp edge closing down on the bullet at the same time as the bullet is moving into the case. The end result of this setup is a ring of shaved copper at the edge of the case end. A bigger thicker ring of copper has the potential to cause the round to "jam" in the chamber. The solution is to purchase and use a Lee Factor crimp die AFTER the bullet has been seated in the case.

BTW, those who do not believe this can be a problem should try loading a long case like the 38 special. Once that jacketing starts to get shaved the bullet will "stall" in the case and any additional travel will result in buckled case. With something like the 45 ACP the result can be a shaved ring with a sharp edge that can actually be felt because it's larger than the OD of the case. Note, this effect will happen with either plated bullets or jacketed bullets like the Hornady XTP.

PS; I keep a cheap 20X loupe picked up at a gun show on my reloading bench specifically to get a close look at my loaded rounds when something just doesn't feel correct.

 

[Jboutfishn]

Reloading all used brass requires checking case length. I run all used brass through the case trimmer, then clean up inside and outside of case mouth.