Reloading the .380 ACP
- Thread starter M&PUSER
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
Houdini1953
Member
NOPE! Go ahead and buy manufactured ammo!
shovelwrench
Member
YEAH, then I can pick up your brass....
No, really though, as long as you don't mind paying at least twice the money for half the amount of ammo, buy new factory ammo.
No, really though, as long as you don't mind paying at least twice the money for half the amount of ammo, buy new factory ammo.
J. R. WEEMS
Member
.380 RELOADING
I have said this so many times but maybe once again. No, for the most part, as long as you can STILL buy it. However, and especially if you are younger, it might pay somewhere down the line if you at least can. If the up and coming election doesn't go the right way, all bets are off not only concerning , some guns, of course, but ammo, clips holding more than 10 rounds and the list goes on. JMHO.
I have said this so many times but maybe once again. No, for the most part, as long as you can STILL buy it. However, and especially if you are younger, it might pay somewhere down the line if you at least can. If the up and coming election doesn't go the right way, all bets are off not only concerning , some guns, of course, but ammo, clips holding more than 10 rounds and the list goes on. JMHO.
venomballistics
Member
if you load for everything else ... go for it If not, there are far better places to start reloading ... start with the gun you rock out with the hardest and heaviest.
jwh32
Member
YES, for me it is, Hornady 90 gr XTP over3.2 gr Tite Group
john
john
Grayfox
US Veteran
Depends on how much you shoot. If you shoot 100 rounds a year, no. Its not worth the time.
If you shoot 100 rounds every range trip, absolutely.
If you shoot 100 rounds every range trip, absolutely.
Why not, what's the difference between it or 9mm, 40 SW etc.
Is it $7 or $8 a box of 50??. Heck the last ammo "shortage" 380 was impossible to find anywhere. If you shoot it, reload it. If you just carry a 380 for SD then maybe just buy a box but that is true for any caliber.
I own seven 380 automatics but don't shoot them very often compared
to all the revolvers I own. It varies but maybe 150-200 rds a year total.
It isn't worth it to me to hassle with loading 380s even though I load
several other calibers. I try to save the brass anyway but always lose
some. I think the best load for the 380 is the standard 95 gr FMJ and
so I just stock up when I see a good price.
to all the revolvers I own. It varies but maybe 150-200 rds a year total.
It isn't worth it to me to hassle with loading 380s even though I load
several other calibers. I try to save the brass anyway but always lose
some. I think the best load for the 380 is the standard 95 gr FMJ and
so I just stock up when I see a good price.
Titegroups
Member
I load it, just another set of dies, I don't shoot much of it but the price for factory stuff has always been too high IIRC WWB at wallyworld was $40/100. Set of dies was about $40. Easy choice.
gregintenn
Member
More so than for the 9mm Luger.
shovelwrench
Member
AMEN brother, if you allready reload, why not throw a couple hundred together.
Personally, I don't like to have to go to the store. Let alone to buy ammo. Not to mention you can load that Buffalo Bore stuff on the press for the cost of the cheap stuff.
Moonman
Member
You can have a few components around incase they go full tilt 9mm manufacturing again and have no time to produce .380.
Lil' LadySmith
Member
We recently went through and did cost breakdown to determine if it was worth loading for the .380 ourselves. Initially we didn't think it would be but as we did more looking we came to the opposite conclusion.
The main factor was the brass. If you don't mind getting once fired brass from someone then you can save quite a bit. (new brass is 2-3 times more than once fired depending on the brand) We went with once fired and, combined with a plated bullet we found and like, we got the initial cost down to nearly 50% of what factory loads would cost us. Now that we have the brass (and can remove that cost for the next round) we'll be saving approx. 66%.
It'll all depend on the brass you buy and the bullets you choose and how well you can keep from losing your brass.
Of course, if you don't have the dies already then you'll use up some of that savings initially as well.
L'LS
The main factor was the brass. If you don't mind getting once fired brass from someone then you can save quite a bit. (new brass is 2-3 times more than once fired depending on the brand) We went with once fired and, combined with a plated bullet we found and like, we got the initial cost down to nearly 50% of what factory loads would cost us. Now that we have the brass (and can remove that cost for the next round) we'll be saving approx. 66%.
It'll all depend on the brass you buy and the bullets you choose and how well you can keep from losing your brass.
Of course, if you don't have the dies already then you'll use up some of that savings initially as well. L'LS
Thanks for your responses.
I reload for everything I own too. I currently shoot about 150 to 200 rounds when I make my trip to the range, so it sounds as if I can save a substantial amount of money.
Brass I've got. Any suggestions for an accurate load? And which bullets?
I reload for everything I own too. I currently shoot about 150 to 200 rounds when I make my trip to the range, so it sounds as if I can save a substantial amount of money.
Brass I've got. Any suggestions for an accurate load? And which bullets?
ArchAngelCD
Moderator, SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
95gr FMJ bullet (I'm currently using Magtech bullets)
3.2gr W231
CCI-500 primers
95gr RN cast bullet from Missouri Bullets
3.0gr W231
CCI-500 primers
