Reloading with a vengeance..........

[rwsmith]

I've been feeling rotten a long time but with some new medical routines I'm doing better. The proof is in the pudding. Besides cleaning up a huge mess that has accumulated, this is the result:

See thumbnail

I've just about perfected the 9mm and almost all of them plunk well. I went to the range yesterday and didn't have a burp with any reloads.

I've also gotten some gauges to improve my rifle reloading. I'm really taking headspace seriously to avoid working brass too much. Thing are looking up.

 

[Miracle Man]

Good deal

The giant bulk of my prior reloading from back in the day was with bolt action rifles and some revolver. I'm a fairly recent reloader of semi-auto handguns and rifles and have just started using cartridge gauges myself.

They've made a big difference.

 

[Nevada Ed]

Good deal

The giant bulk of my prior reloading from back in the day was with bolt action rifles and some revolver. I'm a fairly recent reloader of semi-auto handguns and rifles and have just started using cartridge gauges myself.

They've made a big difference.

Same here but then I bought two 9mm pistols and have having good luck with my ammo
as long as I get the correct OAL for the weight & style bullet that I use in my pistols.

Have fun.

 

[raljr1]

A couple of years ago, i did much the same. Loaded up a couple thousand af a variety of calibers....started the next round about a week ago...gonna load a couple thousand before I put the tools away.

Robert

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I've been feeling rotten a long time but with some new medical routines I'm doing better. The proof is in the pudding. Besides cleaning up a huge mess that has accumulated, this is the result:

See thumbnail

I've just about perfected the 9mm and almost all of them plunk well. I went to the range yesterday and didn't have a burp with any reloads.

I've also gotten some gauges to improve my rifle reloading. I'm really taking headspace seriously to avoid working brass too much. Thing are looking up.

I'm glad to hear you are feeling better. I know medical problems can sometimes take a long time to work out.

 

[MikFinkel]

I've been feeling rotten a long time but with some new medical routines I'm doing better. The proof is in the pudding. Besides cleaning up a huge mess that has accumulated, this is the result:

See thumbnail

I've just about perfected the 9mm and almost all of them plunk well. I went to the range yesterday and didn't have a burp with any reloads.

I've also gotten some gauges to improve my rifle reloading. I'm really taking headspace seriously to avoid working brass too much. Thing are looking up.

Those look great. I never had any luck with gauges with my guns. Always have to plunk test.

 

[rockquarry]

Those look great. I never had any luck with gauges with my guns. Always have to plunk test.

I'm not attempting to tell anyone how to handload, but I've picked up a few things in the last fifty-seven years that always worked well for me and others.

As for handgun cartridge loading, I've never found a need for any sort of gauge. Let your revolver cylinder or semi-auto chamber and magazine length tell you what you need to know. These procedures are at least as reliable as a gauge.

With rifle cartridge loading, straightwall cases are about the same as working with handgun cartridges. With bottleneck cases, even belted magnum brass, size just enough that a loaded cartridge will chamber with very slight resistance. Every five or six loadings you'll likely have to do a full-length resize.

Partial sizing will contribute to brass longevity, perhaps considerably. I don't anneal unless required and since I stopped making .219 Zipper cases from other brass, I haven't had to anneal and no gauges are necessary, with one exception.

.223 / 5.56 ARs need every round checked through a gauge if you want 100% reliability. I've tried this extensively using three Colts. If you'll do this, you'll never have a round that won't chamber properly, even if you're using second-rate mixed brass. You can get by without a gauge for ARs and many do, but you'll almost certainly have a reliability problem eventually with an out-of-spec cartridge. Good luck-

 

[rwsmith]

My 9mm gauge...

Those look great. I never had any luck with gauges with my guns. Always have to plunk test.

If the cartridges ALMOST plunk in my gauge, they will definitely plunk in a barrel. This has bumfuddled me a long time as to why I can only get a few cartridges to plunk well in my gauge. As long as I don't see the groove under the rim they are ok. I've measured everything and can't find anything that gives me a clue as to what the problem is. But at least 99% of them plunk after about 10 years of practice. Of course I have a LOT of 9mms and there are some differences in each one, especially compact pistols. If ANYBODY has any explanation, I'd be very glad to hear it.

 

[rockquarry]

I've never used a gauge on any 9mm cartridge and they've worked flawlessly since I began loading for this cartridge in 1988. I've used about 99% cast bullets. I've used three guns primarily - a Walther P4, a Beretta 92 (?), and a Sig P226. The latter two were purchased new in the '80s.

Just measure a cartridge occasionally and make sure the dimesions are less than max. SAAMI specs. You can use a dial caliper for some of this, but only a micrometer will work for diameters if you want an accurate reading. I don't use measuring tools that require batteries.

 

[rwsmith]

That's the problem I've had.....

I've never used a gauge on any 9mm cartridge and they've worked flawlessly since I began loading for this cartridge in 1988. I've used about 99% cast bullets. I've used three guns primarily - a Walther P4, a Beretta 92 (?), and a Sig P226. The latter two were purchased new in the '80s.

Just measure a cartridge occasionally and make sure the dimesions are less than max. SAAMI specs. You can use a dial caliper for some of this, but only a micrometer will work for diameters if you want an accurate reading. I don't use measuring tools that require batteries.

I've used RCBS dies. Everything is set up right. The sizing die cams on the shell holder. I flare the cases just enough to let the bullet slip in about 1/16". I seat the bullet, usually Missouri 125 gr. SWCs. I had 1000 'smallball' one time that gave me a fit as I had a LOT of failures with them (It was a good bullet mfg, but they just started using coating and it was clumpy). Then I give them enough taper crimp to close the flare. I started using an 'M' die for expanding which seems to be better than the regular expander. I only have a caliper, but all the dimensions I measured were smaller than max according to the Saami page. Since you say you need a micrometer to measure diameter, I measured the top near the mouth, the slight bulge in the case the bullet made and the case head and all were within spec. All I know is the last 1000 or so I've made have give far less trouble than any 9mm I've made before. But still there are a few that just won't go and I'm not sure where the problem is.

PS: I have a S&W 5943 that eats most anything, A Sig P250, a Keltec P 12, A Keltec sub2000 carbine, A Ruger 9mm Carbine, A 9mm Shield, A Shield 9mm EZ. I might have a few more 9s around here I'm forgetting.

 

[rockquarry]

I've used RCBS dies. Everything is set up right. The sizing die cams on the shell holder. I flare the cases just enough to let the bullet slip in about 1/16". I seat the bullet, usually Missouri 125 gr. SWCs. I had 1000 'smallball' one time that gave me a fit as I had a LOT of failures with them (It was a good bullet mfg, but they just started using coating and it was clumpy). Then I give them enough taper crimp to close the flare. I started using an 'M' die for expanding which seems to be better than the regular expander. I only have a caliper, but all the dimensions I measured were smaller than max according to the Saami page. Since you say you need a micrometer to measure diameter, I measured the top near the mouth, the slight bulge in the case the bullet made and the case head and all were within spec. All I know is the last 1000 or so I've made have give far less trouble than any 9mm I've made before. But still there are a few that just won't go and I'm not sure where the problem is.

PS: I have a S&W 5943 that eats most anything, A Sig P250, a Keltec P 12, A Keltec sub2000 carbine, A Ruger 9mm Carbine, A 9mm Shield, A Shield 9mm EZ. I might have a few more 9s around here I'm forgetting.

Hard to analyze long distance...maybe the few that don't chamber have an excessive crimp? I don't know. Many get by fine with a dial caliper. I just prefer that added accuracy you get with a micrometer when measuring diameters. A caliper is fine for measuring bullet length, case length, and overall cartridge length, but little else.

I worked with 9mms for many years just to see if they would shoot cast bullets as well as other handgun chamberings. They will, but it was a lot of work. I've never been much of a 9mm follower and seldom shoot any 9mm pistol these days.

 

[rwsmith]

I'll check for........

Hard to analyze long distance...maybe the few that don't chamber have an excessive crimp? I don't know. Many get by fine with a dial caliper. I just prefer that added accuracy you get with a micrometer when measuring diameters. A caliper is fine for measuring bullet length, case length, and overall cartridge length, but little else.

I worked with 9mms for many years just to see if they would shoot cast bullets as well as other handgun chamberings. They will, but it was a lot of work. I've never been much of a 9mm follower and seldom shoot any 9mm pistol these days.

I'll check for the excessive crimp idea. Early on I was rather heavy handed with some reloading operations and had to make adjustments. I think subconsciously I felt that if something didn't 'crunch' I'm wasn't doing enough to it.

 

[glenwolde]

Could you tell me what bullet that is in your 9mm reloads?

 

[rwsmith]

Sure, it's the........

Could you tell me what bullet that is in your 9mm reloads?

... Missouri Bullets Hi tek coated 9mm 125 gr. SWC. It's my main reloading bullet. Some have indicated that Missouri's QC is slipping. I hope that's not true. I have 1000 of these on order.

 

[raljr1]

I had some 9mm that would drop in the gauge but would not chamber in my 39-2. Heavy crimp was in fact the culprit.

 

[rockquarry]

I'll check for the excessive crimp idea. Early on I was rather heavy handed with some reloading operations and had to make adjustments. I think subconsciously I felt that if something didn't 'crunch' I'm wasn't doing enough to it.

I think most handloaders crimp far more than necessary. I've done the same. Overcrimping usually hurts nothing but accuracy and some aren't concerned with accuracy anyway. Sometimes we'll get a slight case neck distortion from overcrimping and it's enough to prevent chambering.

As for 9mm bullets, if you've found a good one, stick with it. I don't really know what's available commercially. I tried plated bullets one time and they were terribly inaccurate in comparison with good cast bullets. I've had such good results with my own cast bullets (finally) that I've never seen a reason to try coated ones.

I tried at least a dozen cast bullet mould designs of various weights over many years and about that many powders to see what would shoot accurately using a wheelweight alloy without leading the bore. The very best bullet so far is cast from an obsolete Lyman .38 Special mould, #358212, a round nose weighing about 148-150 grains. I size bullets in a .358" die, but a .357" or even .359" might work better in other pistols. I found out a long time ago that the largest diameter bullet that will allow a loaded cartridge to chamber without difficulty is usually the best diameter.

I use Bullseye powder, but HS-6 (a powder I've never found to be real useful) is a fairly close second for accuracy. My loads work perfectly in my Walther P4, Beretta 92 (?), and a Sig P226. I seat to maximum magazine length of around 1.17", but that was too long for a friend's H&K chamber. Good luck-

 

[pantannojack]

I've also gotten some gauges to improve my rifle reloading. I'm really taking headspace seriously to avoid working brass too much. Thing are looking up.

For rifle brass life I adjust the sizing die so that when I chamber a sized and empty case, I can feel just a slight constriction when closing the bolt handle in the last half part of the turn. Pre 64 mod 70's are very easy to remove the striker or place the safety @ mid rotation for this purpose. In X Course HP Rifle, many shooters complained about only three firings from a M1A 7.62 case, I however, was able to get ten or more firings. Same with the Garand and 30-06 cases.

 

[Valmet]

I’ve always gone thru re-loading “phases” myself- I’ll do it awhile and after I’ve stocked (or re-stocked) on some of my high volume cartridges, I’ll let the RCBS rest awhile- sometimes a few years.

 

[DeplorabusUnum]

I noticed a problem getting 9mm and 45 ACP to plunk reliably in my gauges. I found that taking the ones that wouldn't plunk and running them through the crimp die one more time with another quarter turn down almost always leads to a plunk. If you still have failure to plunk, try another quarter turn until it does.

I always attributed that to different brass length (I don't measure pistol cartridges) giving a different amount of crimp depending on the length of the cartridge. You might give that a try. Works for me.

 

[rwsmith]

Consistent lengthis a problem with 9mm...

I have a couple thousand pieces of 9mm range brass, some mine, some unknown. Trimming those isn't an appealing idea. I wouldn't hurt to sort through and group by brands, but every time I go to the range I get a new load. So case length could be part of the problem. I am going to start with minimum crimp though and only tighten down if I need to.

PS With prices dropping my time is better spent on cartridges that are more pricey.