Reloading with a vengeance..........

I have a couple thousand pieces of 9mm range brass, some mine, some unknown. Trimming those isn't an appealing idea. I wouldn't hurt to sort through and group by brands, but every time I go to the range I get a new load. So case length could be part of the problem. I am going to start with minimum crimp though and only tighten down if I need to.

PS With prices dropping my time is better spent on cartridges that are more pricey.

That's what I do. I don't shoot 9mm for accuracy at 25 yards or more. 9mm is my carry ammo 95% of the time. I shoot it at 10 yards or less because that's how I envision needing to fire a round in a self defense situation. I load it for reliable cycling at the range.
 
I would reload 9mm range brass in groups of 5000. 124 RNCast Lee bullet. WW231 powder and a Heavy Crimp. Never had a Feed or Fire issue in about 100,000 rounds. about 20% fired in 39-2, Star BM & BKM, a couple 1911 9mm's. The other 80% fired in a full auto MAC-10 with or with out silencer.

My unscientific experience is many guns have minimum size chambers in the mistaken that is where accuracy comes from. The truth is accuracy comes from the last few inches of the barrel (including the crown) and barrel/bushing fit (if there is any)! The MAC-10 fires from an open bolt and has a 2 pound chunk of steel slamming into the primer at ignition! The sloppiest chamber and only 6 inches of barrel to stabilize everything. Yet at 50 yards I consistently had 5 shot burst, 5 inch "diameter" groups. Not one of those junk or fine pistols could do that! It is in the barrel, probably 2 or 3 1000ths less diameter. Anschutz calls that a "Choke".

Tight chambers cause malfunctions in the real world. (Matches are not the real world!

Rant off!

Ivan
 
The chambers on all my 9mms seem fine.....

I would reload 9mm range brass in groups of 5000. 124 RNCast Lee bullet. WW231 powder and a Heavy Crimp. Never had a Feed or Fire issue in about 100,000 rounds. about 20% fired in 39-2, Star BM & BKM, a couple 1911 9mm's. The other 80% fired in a full auto MAC-10 with or with out silencer.

My unscientific experience is many guns have minimum size chambers in the mistaken that is where accuracy comes from. The truth is accuracy comes from the last few inches of the barrel (including the crown) and barrel/bushing fit (if there is any)! The MAC-10 fires from an open bolt and has a 2 pound chunk of steel slamming into the primer at ignition! The sloppiest chamber and only 6 inches of barrel to stabilize everything. Yet at 50 yards I consistently had 5 shot burst, 5 inch "diameter" groups. Not one of those junk or fine pistols could do that! It is in the barrel, probably 2 or 3 1000ths less diameter. Anschutz calls that a "Choke".

Tight chambers cause malfunctions in the real world. (Matches are not the real world!

Rant off!

Ivan

The reloader, however, is prone to introducing problems into an otherwise simple operation. :confused::D
 
Reloading for Semi-Auto Pistols

I had the same outlook that gauges were not necessary and the proof was that my reloads worked in my guns. Then as I started shooting more different semi automatic pistols of the same caliber problems started to creep up. Rounds not feeding or failing to go into battery fully. My epiphany came with my acquisition of a 9mm sub-machine gun. The varying rate of fire, and failures to feed made it aparent there were issues.

The root cause is the head if the case is not resized using standard reloading dies. there is a bevel on the bottom of the die and the shell holder covers an portion. This area slowly gets larger. This is why cases for semi auto pistols don't require regular trimming. I was finally able to solve the issue by using a Case Pro 100 roll sizer machine. It resizes the case from the rim up about 1/3 the length of the case. Case now plunk freely in gauge and work in all guns. Another benefit is the progressive press works much smoother now. There is no expanded part of the case head wedging into the bevel on the bottom of the die and popping when it comes out. The press runs smooth with no powder accumulating on the shellplate.

That is works for me with 9mm, 38 Super, 40S&W, 10mm, 45ACP, and 223. You don't have to buy a machine, the probably is someone in your neck of the woods who can run some brass through their machine for you.
 
If the cartridges ALMOST plunk in my gauge, they will definitely plunk in a barrel. This has bumfuddled me a long time as to why I can only get a few cartridges to plunk well in my gauge. As long as I don't see the groove under the rim they are ok. I've measured everything and can't find anything that gives me a clue as to what the problem is. But at least 99% of them plunk after about 10 years of practice. Of course I have a LOT of 9mms and there are some differences in each one, especially compact pistols. If ANYBODY has any explanation, I'd be very glad to hear it.:confused:

Could be any number of reasons. A burr on the case head. A bullet slightly too wide in diameter. The case isn't being completely sized and is a bit wide at the bottom. The case is a bit too long...

I have a 9mm case gauge that won't accept anything but a .355 bullet. 90% of my reloads are cast bullets sized to .357. None of my cast bullet reloads will work in the gauge but all work fine in a dozen different 9mms.
 
Aha.....

Could be any number of reasons. A burr on the case head. A bullet slightly too wide in diameter. The case isn't being completely sized and is a bit wide at the bottom. The case is a bit too long...

I have a 9mm case gauge that won't accept anything but a .355 bullet. 90% of my reloads are cast bullets sized to .357. None of my cast bullet reloads will work in the gauge but all work fine in a dozen different 9mms.

I use Missouri coated bullets that are supposed to be .356" but I'm going to measure them to see. Sometimes you can notice a slight case bulge after seating the bullet but of course the case has been sized down a bit small. I flare them enough to let them slip in about 1/16". I haven't messed with jacketed or plated bullets in a while, but I seem to remember that they slid in more easily and were more consistent.
=======

I'm back. Most measure .356" but some measure .3565". Only a little bit, but it may make a difference. Especially since I had less trouble with jacketed bullets. If the rim is showing but I can't see the gap between the rim and the head with the gauge, I pass the round since they will plunk in the barrel.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top