Reloading with Titegroup

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FatDogEarl

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I've recently acquired seven pounds of Hodgdon's Titegroup.
I've found loading data on the Hodgdon's site for 9mm, 38, 357, 45, & 44. I'm planning to reload all of those calibers.

I'm curious to hear from folks that use the powder as to their favorite loads for any of the above mentioned calibers.
 
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I only tried a couple of pounds of it some years ago. It's basically Bullseye and works about as well. Data is close to Bullseye but not necessarily interchangeable. I tried it in 9mm, .38 Special, and .45 ACP, maybe others.

Some say it burns hot and overheats barrels. I think this allegation may have been started by Internet/ YouTube maestros. There may be minimal truth to it but I never experienced it.
 
Titegroup is my standard powder for 9mm loads I use in IDPA and USPSA. It is also the most used powder for Minor 9mm according the competition surveys. I use the Hornady loading data, and verify with chrono.
It is very reliable and efficient.
 
I used Titegroup to reload 50 cartridges for my 38 WCF revolver. It caused the barrel to be much warmer to the touch than rounds reloaded with Unique or Green Dot. Way too hot to touch. If you want another pound (less the 50 rounds I reloaded) PM me. I am not going to use any more of it. I live in Tulsa so it will have to be FTF as I am not going to ship it.
 
I use Titegroup for light to medium loads in 32 H&R, 38 Spec., 45acp, 45 Colt and others. Seems to work fine for all of them. The only caution I would have is that the volume is very small, you could easily double the load and not notice it. For example, I use 2.7 grains with 90 grain lead SWC bullets in 32 H&R and there's room for a lot more powder. . . . .

Jeff
SWCA #1457
 
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I've used Titegroup for std pressure .38 spl, .357 magnum mid range 1,050 fps and .44 Mag mid range of around 925 fps from a 4" 29-2. Load data is almost identical with Bullseye.
 
rockquarry said:
I only tried a couple of pounds of it some years ago. It's basically Bullseye and works about as well. Data is close to Bullseye but not necessarily interchangeable. I tried it in 9mm, .38 Special, and .45 ACP, maybe others.

Some say it burns hot and overheats barrels. I think this allegation may have been started by Internet/ YouTube maestros. There may be minimal truth to it but I never experienced it.
Click to expand...

I used up a 1# can back when I was first getting started. It is ok for jacketed bullets, but yes it does get very hot and it causes worse leading than any other powder I've tried.
 
IIRC there have been several posters here who have had "accidents" with large size cases (.41, .44, .45) when using that powder. Could have been double charges that were undetected or something else...

I would use it in .32s, .380, 9mm .38 Super but nothing larger than a .38 Special or maybe a .45 ACP...

Bob
 
johngalt said:
I used up a 1# can back when I was first getting started. It is ok for jacketed bullets, but yes it does get very hot and it causes worse leading than any other powder I've tried.
Click to expand...

Okay. Never had those problems. I only use my own cast bullets in all handgun chamberings. Powder is seldom a cause of leading, but it's possible.
 
I have used titegroup in 9mm , 38spl , 41 magnum and 44 magnum with complete satisfaction using my own cast bullets in the magnums and 38 spl . In fact I just bought another pound a couple of weeks ago . I have never noticed the " hot " burning thing , barrels getting hot . My 41 and 44 mag loads are stout enough to be a good carry " everyday " load . Regards Paul
 
rockquarry said:
Okay. Never had those problems. I only use my own cast bullets in all handgun chamberings. Powder is seldom a cause of leading, but it's possible.
Click to expand...

Revolver or auto? I used it primarily in .45 auto for 230 gr hardball and 148 HBWC in .38 special.

Since the .45 was jacketed, of course no leading there. I didn't notice the heat as much, I suspect because there is an air gap between the barrel and slide.

My revolver cylinder would get noticeably hotter than with W231 or Bullseye and leaded worse than both.

I guess these days you use what's available, but after my experimenting I found others I liked better.
 
I grew up at a club with old school 1970's and 1980's PPC shooters so EVERYONE on the line was running custom K-frame PPC rigs and charging with speed loaders, most of them using the Safariland Comp 3's.

I learned straight away that you eject empties with index and middle finger wrapped around the cylinder with fingers through the cylinder window in the frame. This sounds over complicated when described with WORDS but we are talking about a very common and prudent method of handling a revolver.

WHY am I saying this...?!

Go ahead. Make your .38 ammo with Titegroup and go shoot 100 rounds and wrap your fingers around a cylinder. Only then can you tell me that the high nitrocellulose Titegroup's well established reputation for -HEAT- is some internet rumor.
 
johngalt said:
Revolver or auto? I used it primarily in .45 auto for 230 gr hardball and 148 HBWC in .38 special.

Since the .45 was jacketed, of course no leading there. I didn't notice the heat as much, I suspect because there is an air gap between the barrel and slide.

My revolver cylinder would get noticeably hotter than with W231 or Bullseye and leaded worse than both.

I guess these days you use what's available, but after my experimenting I found others I liked better.
Click to expand...

Revolvers and semi-autos. I stick with Bullseye only because I've used it so long and have more loads developed for it than Titegroup. If I couldn't get Bullseye, I'd convert over to Titegroup without regret. I've used very few jacketed bullets in handgun chamberings since the '70s.

All my handgun barrels get hot after I've fired them a lot; powder doesn't matter. With cast bullets, if you're using a good balanced load with a bullet that fits, a good lube, and your alloy is right for the load, heat doesn't seem to hurt anything. Seldom will a handgun barrel get as hot as a rifle barrel.
 
Sevens said:
I grew up at a club with old school 1970's and 1980's PPC shooters so EVERYONE on the line was running custom K-frame PPC rigs and charging with speed loaders, most of them using the Safariland Comp 3's.

I learned straight away that you eject empties with index and middle finger wrapped around the cylinder with fingers through the cylinder window in the frame. This sounds over complicated when described with WORDS but we are talking about a very common and prudent method of handling a revolver.

WHY am I saying this...?!

Go ahead. Make your .38 ammo with Titegroup and go shoot 100 rounds and wrap your fingers around a cylinder. Only then can you tell me that the high nitrocellulose Titegroup's well established reputation for -HEAT- is some internet rumor.
Click to expand...

I believe I already mentioned this, but after you fire a hundred rounds, all barrels are hot.
 
Bro, it is not the barrel. I don't wrap fingers around the barrel. Do you...?!
 
Sevens said:
Bro, it is not the barrel. I don't wrap fingers around the barrel. Do you...?!
Click to expand...

I'm probably not much of a "bro" whatever that may be. I'm sorry. I reread your post. I don't grasp barrels or cylinders when they're hot, but would get guess cylinders get hot too, don't they? Why would you have a need to feel one?

I'm usually too busy shooting.
 
Ive used in the calibers listed in the OP. It works well for light / target loads. I've been using it a lot lately for 45 Colt and it works well.

It definitely can heat up a cylinder hotter than any other powder that I've experienced. Shooting at a slow to normal pace it might not be an issue but try shooting a lot at a moderate to fast pace and you will notice it.
 
I load all the calibers you mentioned with Titegroup. I have not noticed the hot cylinder issue, but then again I don't shoot rapid fire, and never fire 100 rounds from the same pistol during one range trip. I find it a very useful powder, much like Bullseye.
 
I was given a 4lb can of Titegroup and I have used it in .45ACP, .44 special,.38 special, .44 mag (loaded to moderate velocities) and .357 mags ( again loaded to moderate velocities). The only complaint I have is that it seems to produce a lot of smoke when used with cast bullets.
 
lppd4 said:
I was given a 4lb can of Titegroup and I have used it in .45ACP, .44 special,.38 special, .44 mag (loaded to moderate velocities) and .357 mags ( again loaded to moderate velocities). The only complaint I have is that it seems to produce a lot of smoke when used with cast bullets.
Click to expand...

Powder aside, all conventionally lubed cast bullets will be minimally smoky in comparison with jacketed bullets. Usually, it's not enough to matter and the benefits of a cast bullet that fits and is of the proper alloy for the load outweighs any real or alleged drawbacks, like smoke. These will often be the most accurate bullets you will find for handgun chamberings.

I only did load development with Titiegroup in three or four cartridges, but don't recall Titegroup loads producing comparatively more smoke than any other powder (if the powder was even the cause of smoke). I only use conventionally lubricated cast bullets in handguns.

It's possible that an unbalanced or poor load may result in powder-produced smoke and these loads will almost always be inaccurate. Such loads are quickly weeded out when shooting groups from a 25-yard benchrest.
 
I really like TiteGroup. If I didn't have a bunch of powder on hand I would buy 8# keg of it and not ever look back. 8#'s most likely last the rest of my life. I've found accurate loads with every caliber mentioned above. Works really good for 2-4" barrel ed guns. Don't try to go for "magnum" loads with it. Keep a small flashlight handy to double check cases, Because it doesn't take much and its a very dense powder. I've never noticed my guns getting any hotter with this powder than any other. If you dont want it , I'll take it off your hands.
 
rockquarry said:
I'm probably not much of a "bro" whatever that may be. I'm sorry. I reread your post. I don't grasp barrels or cylinders when they're hot, but would get guess cylinders get hot too, don't they? Why would you have a need to feel one?

I'm usually too busy shooting.
Click to expand...

You're still not getting what he's saying. The observation he stated is exactly why I have pounds of titegroup leftover from a purchase ten years ago. When I shoot, I burn about 300+ rounds in a range trip. I work the cylinder exactly as he describes. Any powder will get the cylinder hot. Titegroup seems to get them much hotter, much faster given a similar rate of fire. I actually got to the point, more than once, I couldn't touch the cylinder at all. I can't recall that happening with another propellant in similar circumstances. Now all that said, Titegroup meters like water and makes accurate loads. I will get around to finishing the stock I have on hand.
 
SLT223 said:
You're still not getting what he's saying. The observation he stated is exactly why I have pounds of titegroup leftover from a purchase ten years ago. When I shoot, I burn about 300+ rounds in a range trip. I work the cylinder exactly as he describes. Any powder will get the cylinder hot. Titegroup seems to get them much hotter, much faster given a similar rate of fire. I actually got to the point, more than once, I couldn't touch the cylinder at all. I can't recall that happening with another propellant in similar circumstances. Now all that said, Titegroup meters like water and makes accurate loads. I will get around to finishing the stock I have on hand.
Click to expand...

I get exactly what he's saying, but that doesn't make it fact. Some here have allegedly experienced what you're describing while most haven't. I have no reason to think the naysayers are not observant.

When this occurs, does the "heat" damage a gun in some way?

If this situation exists, to whatever degree, we may not have the facts. I suppose that's why all threads regarding Titegroup powder, regrettably, end up as they do.
 
I can't imagine any scenario where the heat damages the gun. For at least two of us that handle guns in a particular way, it's beyond a menace on the hands and fingers.

rockquarry, sir, please understand clearly that I'm not trying to sway your opinion in the slightest. It's beyond obvious that you're dug in and have no interest in anything outside your own vision.
 
Sevens said:
I can't imagine any scenario where the heat damages the gun. For at least two of us that handle guns in a particular way, it's beyond a menace on the hands and fingers.

rockquarry, sir, please understand clearly that I'm not trying to sway your opinion in the slightest. It's beyond obvious that you're dug in and have no interest in anything outside your own vision.
Click to expand...

Consider reading my last post. To the contrary of your remark, I stated that we may not have all the facts. It's best to be a bit open-minded.
 
I use Titegroup to great effect in .44 Magnum with 240gr cast LSWC. From a 7-1/2 barreled Redhawk, I get a very consistent 870fps. Here as well it throws a lot of heat, but the sheer massive size of the Redhawk cylinder means that it gets to temp more slowly than my K-frame .38 cylinders. I'm also usually shooting a box or less whereas .38 I'm typically running 100-200 rounds in a session.

Titegroup is magical when it comes to position insensitivity. That means it is a very good choice when the powder charge is small and the combustion space is massive. Shot to shot consistency in this scenario is better than any powder I've tried in over three decades.
 
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