Remington rolling block extraction issue. Not S&W

[pred]

I hope that I can bend someones ear for a bit, I know this is for S&W smithing,,,,,,,, But you guys are so darn good here!
I got an old No4 Remington rolling block .22 today for a steal, I got it home, Cleaned it real good, I am amazed at the bore condition and the 95% blueing,,, Well after a detail strip and clean I ran a few rounds of Super colubri<sp through it, and found that the chamber of the bore is a bit fouled, The rifeling is like new, But it looks like it only shot 22 shorts in it and anything longer hangs up, and need the back end of a blade to pull the shell out a bit,,, New rounds drop right in and pop right out.
I tried some Blue Wonder and that didnt do the trick,,
What should I try next?
I was thinking about some plumbers grit cloth wound around an old .22 brush and work turning it in the chamber.
And suggestions???
This is a really nice rolling block and would like for it to function as well as it looks!
Peter.

Added info.
The build up in the chamber appears as though this gun has only seen 22 shorts, and wasent cleaned very well. Looks like fouling in the chamber, The super colibri is a 20 grain bullet with no powder, Just primer charge.
I have crocus cloth, But I will wait a bit to see if any one else has any ideas.
I will shoot another couple rounds and measure the shells before and after and see if there will be a clue in the measurements.
Thanks for any suggestions!
Peter.
(I will put the dremmel away!)
LOL

 

[pred]

I hope that I can bend someones ear for a bit, I know this is for S&W smithing,,,,,,,, But you guys are so darn good here!
I got an old No4 Remington rolling block .22 today for a steal, I got it home, Cleaned it real good, I am amazed at the bore condition and the 95% blueing,,, Well after a detail strip and clean I ran a few rounds of Super colubri<sp through it, and found that the chamber of the bore is a bit fouled, The rifeling is like new, But it looks like it only shot 22 shorts in it and anything longer hangs up, and need the back end of a blade to pull the shell out a bit,,, New rounds drop right in and pop right out.
I tried some Blue Wonder and that didnt do the trick,,
What should I try next?
I was thinking about some plumbers grit cloth wound around an old .22 brush and work turning it in the chamber.
And suggestions???
This is a really nice rolling block and would like for it to function as well as it looks!
Peter.

Added info.
The build up in the chamber appears as though this gun has only seen 22 shorts, and wasent cleaned very well. Looks like fouling in the chamber, The super colibri is a 20 grain bullet with no powder, Just primer charge.
I have crocus cloth, But I will wait a bit to see if any one else has any ideas.
I will shoot another couple rounds and measure the shells before and after and see if there will be a clue in the measurements.
Thanks for any suggestions!
Peter.
(I will put the dremmel away!)
LOL

 

[john traveler]

Before you try any polishing on that vintage .22 LR chamber, try switching ammunition.

It was originally chambered for standard velocity .22 LR ammunition. None of this modern hyper-velocity this or the other is suitable, especially that ammo loaded into extended .22 LR cases with ultra lightweight bullets. The modern stuff generates maximum chamber pressures and the extended cases increase extraction force required.

Any chamber polishing should be done carefully and systematically, or you risk ruining the chamber and making the extraction problem worse.
From your bore and exterior description, the chamber should be good, unless a previous owner messed with it.

The proper technique is to use a wooden or aluminum dowel rod just big enough to enter the chamber with one layer of crocus cloth wrapped around it. Nothing coarser is good. Hand turning of the rod only. No powered polishing. A damaged chamber from too-vigourous polishing is guaranteed to give you nothing but extraction headaches.

 

[WR Moore]

The really old .22 ammo had corrosive primers. You need to carefully and thoroughly clean the barrel & chamber with a new bronze brush and solvent to remove any deposits, rust, spiders etc. Possibly finish with boiling water & detergent. [It's quite possible your "buildup" is rust

]

As John notes above, use only standard velocity long rifle ammo. Make darn sure the markings indicate that it's chambered for it! If the chamber has a lead buildup, the cleaning noted above should take care of it.

If the cleaning above doesn't remove the "buildup", consult a gunsmith. A very gentle excursion with a chambering reamer can remove anything you can't get out with a brush, but it's not something to do at home unless you're an experienced machinist.

FWIW, I took delivery of a NIB .22 from a reputable maker 20+ years ago. I had extraction difficulties. Turned out the chamber wasn't finish reamed. However, from your description of the chamber, I don't think that's your issue.

 

[Bullseye Smith]

I would buy a brass rod that will fit the chamber and cut the end to a 45 and use it to clean it out. It won't hurt the steel but it will give the carbon hell. That is what I use on my 357's when I shoot 38 short or special's.

 

[2152hq]

Does the extractor work freely w/o any case in the chamber. It should act as an ejector and snap backwards as the block is lowered as it is under spring tension. The spring is a 3-leaf affair and is rather fragile. The other leaves power the trigger and one gives tension to the breech block. They are quite often broken on the #4's,,especially the breech block and extractor leaves.

Without the spring, the extractor will still work but it doesn't have nearly the power as it relys only on what force the breech block lowering can exerts on it (actually the fireing pin retaining pin is what hits it when the block is lowered).

Sometimes on the takedown models of the #4 when the barrel assembly is tightened into the receiver, the assembly is twisted just a bit and the extractor is pinched slightly. That can jam it totally or at least reduce it's effectiveness. The old style swing-lever takedown is more prone to it than the later left side thumbscrew style.

With all that said, a build up in the chamber from shooting shorts will certainly do it as already mentioned here. Take the barrel assembly itself out of the rifle if it's a T/D model and drop a loaded round into the chamber. Of it's own weight it should drop freely & completely into the chamber. If it hangs up part way, it's most likely on the buildup from the deposits/rust,ect. Removeing them by careful use of penetrating oil first then brushing and scraping with brass scraper and a light polishing can do wonders. Don't be suprised if there is a bit of pitting underneath any buildup in there.
With the right ammo (Standard Vel) it should work just fine.

 

[pred]

Well I had my local gun smith take a look at it with his miniture calipers, He said the chamber was nearly 2/1000ds oversized, causing the shells to expand to a larger size than the extractor, He said the rifeling was very good, Just the chamber saw some corrosion from a long diet of shorts.
He said that it could be rechambered, But he didnt want to do it.
I think I will leave the old girl along, and just shoot the occasional shorts out of it.
All the springs are fine, Gun is accurate and has 95% of the blue on the octagon barrel.
Thank you for looking out for me!
Peter.
I will get a pic of the old girl for you soon.