removal of broken extractor rod

I don't believe I have seen it mentioned but I would suggest when working with this cylinder problem that you keep the cylinder full of empty cases to protect that extractor from getting twisted when working with it. I agree that a good machinist will be your best bet when trying to get that last part out. They have precision tools and most of them have a lot of experience with broken screws, etc. Kroll is excellent stuff but it is slow so be patient. Good luck.
 
Steelslaver

I'm thinking that I've been wrong about some of my comments. Presumably the cylinder was opened by pushing the thumbpiece forward - otherwise it would still be in the frame. This means that the centerpin is free to move, maybe 3/16" or so.

Ralf - Is the above more/less correct ? Or, was the cylinder already open when you received the gun?

Steelslaver - If the pin will move forward and rearward, is it your thinking that you would pull the pin forward as much as possible, then cut off the pin at the top of the lower half of the extractor shaft, and then let it move backward, being pushed by the internal spring? That would give you a bit of space at the top end to mill as much as possible off the center pin, to get more space to work on the broken piece? If so, Ralf would not have to send the whole gun - just the bottom portion of the extractor, which is already out of the cylinder.

My thinking now is that this is what has to happen, one way or another - unless a very long Kroil soak might loosen up the broken piece.

Regards, Mike Priwer
 
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