Removing ejector rod on 15-6

[Inusuit]

My 15-6 sn BES8108 so circa 1989-91 has about 10 thousands end shake. I've ordered the Power Custom shims.

I've watched the videos, viewed the posts, and read Kuhnhausen. Still can't get my head around right hand threads, left hand threads, reverse threads, etc.

When I have the ejector rod clamped in a padded vice or drill chuck and some empty cases in the charge holes, which way do I turn the cylinder to loosen the rod?

I think to the right looking from the back of the cylinder?

Thanks!

 

[sndbggr1484]

Left hand threads so turn right to loosen. Left to tighten.

 

[Inusuit]

Left hand threads so turn right to loosen. Left to tighten.

Thank you! Obviously haven't done this before.

 

[series guy]

If you call the back of the cylinder the end with the ejector star then you would turn the rod left to loosen. Looking from the business end (the end the bullets come out of you would turn the rod right (clockwise) to loosen.

 

[Whit]

Pardon me for hijacking your thread, but how tight should the rod be screwed in…finger tight, or tighter by perhaps using pliers? Should something like loctite be applied before tightening the rod? Thanks.

 

[RetCapt]

Whit,
I loosen and then tighten an ejector rod using any one of the several tools available for this purpose. (Make sure there are empty cases opposite the ratchet pins). Using the tool will prevent marring the knurling on the rod tip.

I firmly tighten the rod, but not gorilla tight. I never use Loc Tite because at some later date I will again want to remove it.

 

[Whit]

Thanks for the info RetCapt. What is the specific tool and where are the available for purchase? I'll try Google while I'm waiting on your response.

 

[Green Frog]

A well padded vise will work fine, or better yet a tool that has a rod sized hole and a slot with a set screw to tighten it down on the rod. Again, make sure to put fired cases or snap caps in three or better yet all of the chambers to support the star and its pins.

As far as loose or tight, think about putting the lid on or off your peanut butter jar. Turn the cylinder, with e-rod secured, as though you were screwing the PB jar lid on if you want the cylinder to be unscrewed.

How tight? As tight as needed to keep the rod from backing out... I just go as tight as I can with my hand and the rod locked in the vise or tool.

Froggie

 

[Pisgah]

I tighten ejector rods finger-tight only -- although I am usually grasping it with a gun cloth wrapped around it to give me a bit more grip. Won't it get loose again, you say? Sure will. That's why every time I clean or load the gun I automatically check it for tightness, and snug it up as needed.

 

[stu1ritter]

If you have a drill press, large or small, the chuck is the tool. Just install the ejector rod like a drill bit and tighten up. It won't mark it and it won't slip. It should be hand tight, but tight. Do not use any form of Loctite on the screw threads.

Stu

 

[ken158]

Pardon me for hijacking your thread, but how tight should the rod be screwed in…finger tight, or tighter by perhaps using pliers? Should something like loctite be applied before tightening the rod? Thanks.

Never use pliers or loctite on an ejector rod… There are tools made for this purpose or you can use a drill chuck.

 

[RetCapt]

Whit,

The responses following mine all give excellent info on tools to remove ejector rods. I have two such specialized tools; one from Brownells and one from Gunsmither. The one from Brownells has several holes to fit different sized ejector rods. The one from Gunsmither is size-specific. Despite two tools I still could not fit all my different ejector rods. So I bought a small size drill chuck because this will fit all sizes. No such thing as too many tools of course.

Re: Tightness. While I don't overtighten, I do not agree with the idea of 'finger tight'. For most of my career my service handgun was a revolver. I could not risk having the ejector rod loosen. Getting ready to go on shift entails numerous steps, and having to check the ejector rod should not be one of them. We shot once a month. When I cleaned the revolver afterwards, I always checked the ejector rod to make sure it was still tight. Shooting PPC matches in CA, we would fire a total of 150 rounds in a single session on the line. Although we were only firing wadcutters, I doubt that a finger tight ejector rod would not start to loosen given that number of rounds fired in that short a period of time. Once the ejector rod starts to loosen, the revolver becomes more and more difficult to open. This is a risk I chose (and choose) not to take.

I have yet to see a downside to having the ejector rod tightened enough using a tool to ensure it will not loosen during firing.

 

[Inusuit]

The work on my Model 15 went very well. I put the end of the ejector rod in a the chuck of my cordless drill and the cylinder unscrewed easily. I installed one .004 shim, reassembled a bit tighter than finger pressure and the end shake problem is solved.