removing light rust

pssman308

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My shooter grade model 14 is showing light rust in spots. Is there a way to remove it.
 
Bronze wool & gun oil . Keep surface wet & rub gently with the bronze wool . I've also heard you can use an old penny , never tried it myself .
 
Bronze wool and oil is the way to go. Change the wool often as rust itself is abrasive.
 
Most hardware stores should have it in the paint section. Usually between the sandpaper and steel wool.
 
Bronze wool & gun oil . Keep surface wet & rub gently with the bronze wool . I've also heard you can use an old penny , never tried it myself .

What he said... Bronze wool and I'd soak it in Kroil too.
I believe i foound Bronze wool at Brownells
Steve
 
Kroil is your friend and can kill and loosen demon rust better than most other oils. Bronze wool is gentle and effective. I've used a bronze brush but enthusiastic scrubbing with the brush will quickly impact the surface finish. I've never tried the copper cent method as it seems a bit harsh. It may actually work well but I never risked it.

Keep steel wool or steel brushes away completely or you'll be sorry.
 
Kroil or Corrosion-X both work. I have used bronze wool to good effect, but found that covering the rust affected areas with a coating of (whichever) oil and letting the oil soak in overnight made the job much easier. Good Luck,

Jerry
 
First try a pencil and then ink erasure. If it's just light surface rust the erasure will remove it and no damage to the blueing. If the erasure doesn't do it then move to the bronze wool and oil.
Always try the least invasive methods first.
 
Bronze wool is great.

Forget the panny unless you're a coin collector. AFAIK, they aren't made of copper anymore.
 
IF you use a penny, pre-1982.

Best to get Chore Boy at grocery store - copper scouring pad. Soak area overnight in Kroil or other penetrating oil.... yes even our friend wd 40



Charlie
 
Chore Boy pads are ubiquitous at the dollar stores in bad neighborhoods. It's the filter of choice for crack pipes.

Most cops I know would need some 'splainin if they came across it in a vehicle or on your person.

Around here "I need it to remove some surface rust from my guns" wouldn't exactly get you out of trouble either!

/c
 
Just be sure its a real "Chore Boy" you use. They are pure copper, while many of the knockoffs appear to be made of plated steel.

And, when the BATFE comes calling, they will want to know why you have "silencer parts".
 
I have been flamed for this in the past but 4 (0000) steel wool with gun oil will do the same thing as bronze wool and it won't hurt you guns finish. My gunsmith told me about it in the 1980's and when I sell a gun it looks brand new and the buyer doesn't see a thing wrong with the finish.
 
How much damage is done to the surrounding blueing with this procedure?
Used carefully, bronze wool won't remove bluing or scratch your gun. Steel wool can, plus any fragments of it left behind can rust themselves.
 
Used carefully, bronze wool won't remove bluing or scratch your gun. Steel wool can, plus any fragments of it left behind can rust themselves.

Excellent! I am looking at a Smith that could use a little bit of touch up work. I can get it at a good price but somehow I just don't like little spots of rust even on a "truck gun candidate."

Thanks again zoom6zoom.
 
I use 0000 steel wool and rem oil and light elbow grease. Works for me. Good luck with the rust.
 
rust...

I just read a post from another forum today where electrolisis (sp) was used as a home remedy for gun rust-clamed no rust after process, and no bluing loss. I would think gun rust removal would bring it up.
 
I have used 0000 steel wool for years with what ever light oil was available at the time, including WD40 and 3 n 1. I have never had fragments of steel wool embed in the blued surface and rust afterward. It may be possible but I have never seen it and have handled literally a few hundred guns that were treated this way. By now I'm believing you would have to work very hard to make this happen. It would take some soft as Cat poo gun steel for this to happen with 0000 steel wool. I don't use gloves when doing this and I've never had fragments in my hand. I think it's a myth.

The best way to handle rust is to prevent it. There's dozens of products out there, all are competing for you dollar with advertising claims. I have used RIG for 40 years and have NEVER had a gun rust when wearing a very thin coat of it. I can't remember the last ad I saw for RIG. It's that good, word of mouth keeps it going. Several years ago the co. making it went out of business. Demand was good enough for this old product to be picked up by another company.
 
I have used 0000 steel wool for years with what ever light oil was available at the time, including WD40 and 3 n 1. I have never had fragments of steel wool embed in the blued surface and rust afterward. It may be possible but I have never seen it and have handled literally a few hundred guns that were treated this way. By now I'm believing you would have to work very hard to make this happen. It would take some soft as Cat poo gun steel for this to happen with 0000 steel wool. I don't use gloves when doing this and I've never had fragments in my hand. I think it's a myth.

The best way to handle rust is to prevent it. There's dozens of products out there, all are competing for you dollar with advertising claims. I have used RIG for 40 years and have NEVER had a gun rust when wearing a very thin coat of it. I can't remember the last ad I saw for RIG. It's that good, word of mouth keeps it going. Several years ago the co. making it went out of business. Demand was good enough for this old product to be picked up by another company.

Joe,

Who is the new company and is it still called Rig because I haven't been able to find any and I love the stuff.
 
I have used 0000 steel wool for years with what ever light oil was available at the time, including WD40 and 3 n 1. I have never had fragments of steel wool embed in the blued surface and rust afterward. It may be possible but I have never seen it and have handled literally a few hundred guns that were treated this way. By now I'm believing you would have to work very hard to make this happen. It would take some soft as Cat poo gun steel for this to happen with 0000 steel wool. I don't use gloves when doing this and I've never had fragments in my hand. I think it's a myth.

The best way to handle rust is to prevent it. There's dozens of products out there, all are competing for you dollar with advertising claims. I have used RIG for 40 years and have NEVER had a gun rust when wearing a very thin coat of it. I can't remember the last ad I saw for RIG. It's that good, word of mouth keeps it going. Several years ago the co. making it went out of business. Demand was good enough for this old product to be picked up by another company.

You can read about it and buy it here:

RIG Products At MidwayUSA

Thanks I'll do that
 
Before I even tried bronze wool, I would starte with just a cotton rag and oil. That may be all you need.

All metals oxodize, the difference with iron as compared to other metals is the the chemical bonds between the oxide compound and the underly base metal is that it is extremely weak. So the iron oxide (rust) separates quite easily exposing more metal which in turn oxidates.

What this means is that is doesn't take a lot of effort to remove rust from steel.

You may even want to start by using just some oil and your thumb to see if you can remove it that way.

Keep in mind that a blued finish is extremely thin, anything that you do is going to wear the finish. It doesn't matter if you use your thumb, a cotton rag, bronze wool or steel wool. Anything you rub across the finish is going to cause wear. So proceed as sparingly as possible.
 

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