I have a 669 I recently acquired that the frame has areas where the aluminum is darker than the brightly silver areas of the frame. There's no pitting, simply a darker look to the metal. How can I restore the bright silver appearance without damaging the metal, bead-blasting, or altering the original factory finish look?
Removing Oxidation from Aluminum Frames
- Thread starter S&W59
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
DMcBB
Member
Maybe send it back to S&W and have the frame re-anodized?
Sorry to say,that is factually incorrect.
All Smith and Wesson Aluminum framed pistols were anodized.
On blued guns the frame was black anodized on stainless guns it was a clear finish.
If the anodized was removed by some unknowing individual.... dump the gun off as soon as possible.
The anodizing is intrigal to it's durability.
As to refinishing.... The last I knew, S&W will NOT re-anodize a frame, pistol or revolver.
Edit... if I am incorrect about the refinishing, please correct me... I would love to be wrong about this.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2007
- Messages
- 27,660
- Reaction score
- 21,288
They do - 3rd generation or newer. See under Finishing - Pistols.
Performance Center(R) Precision Gunsmithing | Smith & Wesson
S&W always applied some sort of finish to their aluminum receivers. First and second generation full size pistols were either black anodized or nickel plated. Second generation compact pistols saw the introduction of a silver-gray anodizing. If the receiver has no finish, someone removed it.
I didn't say it has no finish. Only that the frame has a slightly darker look than other parts that have that bright in-the-white look. No pitting, edge-wear, abrasions, scratches, or any visual evidence it was subjected to any removal of the finish. Its just darker in tint.
@S&W59: Most anodized aluminum will fade over time. I believe that most anodized parts that have not been coated or painted OVER the anodized surface with another protective layer are designed to last 10~20 years. If a part fades evenly, it's a good thing, it means it has been well taken care of.
The amount of fading depends on the environment it was kept in, and on what it came in contact with (sweat, oil), and parts from two different batches may not fade at the same rate.
If you do a lookup on something like "anodized aluminum fading...", you will find more detailed explanations why and how it happens.
A badly deteriorated or pitted part can be de-anodized, then polished, or blushed, or bead blasted, and then re-anodized. You can remove anodizing yourself, polish the part, and then send it to a professional to be re-anodized in your choice of color, but it may still not match the original color exactly, and may not last as long as the original factory finish, or look the same.
The amount of fading depends on the environment it was kept in, and on what it came in contact with (sweat, oil), and parts from two different batches may not fade at the same rate.
If you do a lookup on something like "anodized aluminum fading...", you will find more detailed explanations why and how it happens.
A badly deteriorated or pitted part can be de-anodized, then polished, or blushed, or bead blasted, and then re-anodized. You can remove anodizing yourself, polish the part, and then send it to a professional to be re-anodized in your choice of color, but it may still not match the original color exactly, and may not last as long as the original factory finish, or look the same.
The darker frame is common especially on an older pistol that's been around the block a lot of times.
Sometimes it's dried on oil & grim. A vigorous cleaning will sometimes lighten it a little but even a new anodized alloy frame was not a color match for the stainless steel slide.
.
tom 45
Member
It seems that the silver-gray anodizing on S&W pistols is prone to yellowing with time and, I presume, exposure to oils and/or solvents. I have an early 6906 that also has a blackish discoloration on the dust cover portion of the receiver. Solvent will not remove it all. I suspect it is stain from GSR and perhaps dye from a holster.
hammy5150
Member
I have two alloy frame S&Ws, a 4013TSW and a 6906. The 4013TSW looks relatively well-kept but is still darker on parts of the frame and the 6906 is pretty well worn and yellowed.
It's a bit of an aside, but pure aluminum is very corrosion resistant, while aluminum alloys are a lot less corrosion resistant.
That where Alclad aluminum came into use in the aircraft industry. Alclad is a corrosion-resistant aluminium sheet formed from high-purity aluminium surface layers metallurgically bonded (rolled onto) to high-strength aluminium alloy core material.
That isn't practical with parts milled from billet aluminum, so they get anodized to prevent them from becoming darker.
On the other hand aluminum create a self sealing surface when it corrodes so the darker surface is the only effect. Unless it is constantly wet or in contact with a corrosive substance (salt etc) it's a self limiting process and won't pit or otherwise go under the surface.
That where Alclad aluminum came into use in the aircraft industry. Alclad is a corrosion-resistant aluminium sheet formed from high-purity aluminium surface layers metallurgically bonded (rolled onto) to high-strength aluminium alloy core material.
That isn't practical with parts milled from billet aluminum, so they get anodized to prevent them from becoming darker.
On the other hand aluminum create a self sealing surface when it corrodes so the darker surface is the only effect. Unless it is constantly wet or in contact with a corrosive substance (salt etc) it's a self limiting process and won't pit or otherwise go under the surface.
SWCZSIG-Vinny
Member
If they run like original, and are super dependable; a little 'patina' is a good thing. It's called 'character'. At least....That's what I tell my wife, and bless her I think she believes me. lol
I don't discount my 669 given its darker areas, its simply wondering on my part if it could be restored to a factory-new appearance. As I have said, the metal itself is perfect, not the tiniest blem. I consider myself fortunate the price I paid for it given its condition and having the low-profile 'slab side' factory polymer grips. I paid $335 for it and its an immaculate looking pistol that came with a period-correct blued steel magazine. Thanks for all the feedback though. I'll keep it coated in Rust Prevent and in a protective clamshell eggshell foam lined case.
Similar threads
- Locked
