Removing powder burns on cylinder face

[1911haulic]

I know this has been discussed before, but what is the trick to a thorough cleaning for stainless?

Also, does shooting 38s in 357s exacerbate the problem due to the shorter case?

Thanks in advance.

 

[series guy]

I use a miracle cloth and an old credit card. Shooting .38 Special does not exacerbate the issue.

 

[gmarshall99]

On stainless, I use a bronze brush and Hoppe's.

 

[Rlg#17]

On really tough stains I use simicrome and Q-tips and that gets them off. Seems to make it a bit easier to clean off the next time. I love that product!

Regards, Rick Gibbs

 

[1911haulic]

Thank you everyone, I'll get some semichrome and a brass brush.

 

[lkabug]

Birchwood Casey Lead Remover cloth is great for Stainless.
Not for Blue guns!

 

[.38SuperMan]

I generally use a dab of FLITZ on a patch or my finger or use a lead away cloth. Both work very well. A bronze brush and Hoppes works but it's slow.

 

[jsbethel]

I have always used Blitz cloth on stainless revolvers - works wonders.

 

[Baxter6551]

Like ikabug said above. The Birchwood Casey lead remover cloth but ONLY for stainless. Works great !

 

[BLUEDOT37]

FLITZ BORE CLEANER

This makes cleaning powder burns & residue pretty effortless.

I use it not only to clean the chambers & bore but the cylinder face & the outside of the cylinder of my revolvers.

I've used half the bottle on numerous guns & no worries about their finish. Non-abrasive & no ammonia.

Works fast but you can let it sit on stubborn stains if needed.

It's awesome!

.



.

 

[marlin39a]

A pencil eraser has always worked for me.

 

[chief38]

The Birchwood-Casey Lead - away Wipe Rag works well - but so does a pencil eraser. Just make sure to not get the debris between parts.

Unless you plan on not firing the gun for a good amount of time, I'd not get crazy about the "rings" around the Cylinder Face. As soon as you fire the first cylinder full of ammo it will be like you never cleaned them! I use solvent and a soft nylon "toothbrush" to clean the face of the Cylinder when cleaning. All that really does is it removes the heavy loose stuff but does not take off the rings. This prevents a thick build-up and will allow the Cylinder to remain free of jamming against the Forcing Cone for good operation.

If you are turning a Revolver into a Safe Queen and want it in pristine shape, then use the lead Wipe mentioned above and by others or a pencil eraser. If it's a regular shooter, just keep it as clean as a toothbrush and solvent will get it.

Just my opinion and YMMV.

 

[Marshal Tom]

I have used several of the above but years ago I was told about Scotch Brite pads. The gray for fine finish works really well. At that same time I purchased a blank stainless cylinder with the hole all the way through it. I remove the cylinder, punch the ejector rod through the pad and put the pad in-between the two. Then just spin the two around a few times and presto! Sometimes I just use the pad by itself and rub the face of the cylinder with it. They are the pads that many of us use to tidy up stainless guns with scratches. It works great!

 

[growr]

After you get it clean, put it away and never fire it again, cuz those carbon rings will return after each and every firing.

Randy