REN wax

I use isopropyl alcohol and a bore patch to remove all residual oil and grease, and to prep for the Ren Wax. It's not expensive and is available at drug stores or Wally World. I use a soft cloth (clean tee shirt) to wipe off any excess and dry the metal.

As has already been stated, apply light or thin coats of Ren Wax and then buff with a soft cloth or rag. Multiple coats are rarely required.

I also use it on my grips (stocks) to maintain the factory gloss (Goncalo Alves wood). It has partially restored the finish for some of the stocks that have lost the original finish over the years.

A double plus for the Ren Wax under the grips (stocks) I just completed my semi-annual cleaning yesterday. No rust or pitting under any of my grips (stocks) either (revolvers, rifles, and 1911s). No pitting or discoloration. Additionally, there was no rust on the metal for any of my firearms. I wish that my old drill instructors had known about Ren Wax !!!

Bill
 
On guns that are safe queen collectibles, I use Flitz for a light polish before R-wax. Feel it helps cleans out the pores in the metal. Sort of like using a clay bar on cars before waxing. (hum, has anybody tried that?)

Then two coats of wax including the barrel bore and cylinder chambers.
 
24 posts later and no one mentioned where you can find the stuff. I've looked all over the place locally and no one carries it here Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot, O'Riley's, AutoZone. Only place I haven't looked was PeP Boys or TruValue. Where do you guys find the stuff? Only place I've seen Renaissance wax was online Amazon or Midwayusa. Thanks in advance!

I got mine, also flitz and microfiber towels, from brownells.

PICREATOR MICRO-CRYSTALLINE WAX, CLEANER, POLISH | Brownells

PICREATOR PRE-LIM SURFACE CLEANER | Brownells

FLITZ POLISH | Brownells

FLITZ MICROFIBER POLISHING CLEANING CLOTH | Brownells
 
I'll clean the gun first with alcohol wipes or a cleaner like eesox. Then apply a couple of light coats. Sometimes I'll keep my guns in the basement after shooting so I can clean them. The basement is cooler than the rest of the house. It may be a few days before I get to them, so I'll use a hair dryer just to warm the surface so the wax blends better. I also wax the underside of the grips.

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Some say that Johnson's Paste Wax (Car Wax?) is just as good and costs less. I will have to get some and try it on a beater. The thing is, I bought a can of RW and at the rate I'm using it, it should last 5 to 10 years. So car wax may be cheaper, but if you figure cost per application, you aren't going to wind up in the poor house either way.

Johnson's Paste wax isn't a car wax. It's mainly for furniture, but says on the can it's good for wood, metal, leather and plastic. I've used both but for $7 a pound (16oz) and Johnson's being sold down the road at Home Depot and Lowe's, I've stuck with Johnson's. I enjoy handling my guns as I watch TV, and wax my guns a lot, just because I can. With the cost of Ren wax, I couldn't do that. Plus since I have so much of it (3 pounds, hey, one was discounted at $2.50) I use it on most anything, knives, etc.
 
Johnson's Paste wax is in use by me at my place for wood, metal leather, etc. I have been using it on guns with great success. And a can at $6 or $7 is a good deal in my book. The results I get are great, and I have only gotten one bad result - I will no longer use it on hardwood floors. Makes the floor look fantastic, but it becomes a dangerous place to walk!
For preparation on metal I remove oils with rubbing alcohol or acetone, whichever I have closer at hand. Both work well.
 
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"Some say that Johnson's Paste Wax (Car Wax?) is just as good and costs less. "
JPW is every bit as good as Renwax and far cheaper. I have used it for over 15 years. They have played gun owners as suckers for many years with their pricing. Don't be one.
 
Thanks guys for all the tips and secrets. I do truly appreciate it. Barry
 
Okay, now next question: Anybody have any experience or info on whether this stuff works as a release agent for epoxy bedding? I use Kiwi clear shoe polish and I've also heard of using Johnson's paste wax. I know Ren Wax is more expensive and maybe no actual advantage there, so the question is just if it will work...
 
Well fellas, you can color me impressed. My least pristine Smith is a 1959 model 14. It has some holster wear at the end of the barrel on the sides. The bluing everywhere else is in pretty nice shape. After applying the REN wax the bluing looks so lush and deep. Does the wax protect against rust? Does it work on nickel and stainless finishes? Have any folks used REN on model 27's? Am somewhat concerned getting it in the checkered top strap. Thanks. Barry
 
I like Johnson's Paste Wax too. The result looks as good or on some things even better than Ren Wax. However, Rennaisance Wax makes the claim to work at the molecular structure of the material to which it is applied. I guess that's why it says Micro-Crystalline on the can. Therefore, supposedly protecting far "deeper" than ordinary wax. If the British Museum thinks Ren Wax is good for their historical documents and coats of armor then its gotta be good for my cardboard boxes and guns. You'll never find me without either product.
 
Don't like it for wood at all. I'll stick to my Johnsons Paste Wax thank you. As far as polish goes for my pistols I use Maas.

DW
 
After reading the thread bought 4 oz little jar on e-bay it does really make the blued guns shine

My oldest handgun is this Colt Army Special 32-20 made in 1923 same birth year as my mother who will turn 95 in February, gave it two coats of the Ren wax looks pretty good the grip area has turned brown but the barrel and sides are still in good shape for the most part

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