Renaissance Wax review!

[akdude]

Well in my opinion it goes on easy and wipes off easy but is pure "JUNK"! Used it with pure cotton patches to apply and wipe off with new ones after wiping guns down to get rid of Oil residue.

Used it on parked, blued, stainless, polycoated , anodized and several other finishes and to me every gun lost its shine and this **** dulled the finish 100%, it also will show any minute surface scratches mainly on blue and stainless etc.. which you cant and wont see if oil is applied!

So afterwards I used (which I do for light wiping) a Kiwi neutral silicone impregnated Shoe Sponge and immediately the nice looking finishes on all of my Guns came back!

Now this Junk Renaissance Wax may be good for "Preservation" but it makes things look like dull and crappy instead of like it says bring them back to live!

I truly doubt I will ever use it on or for anything else! He-l No!

If I was to look at 2 NIB Guns 1 cleaned with this junk and the other oiled then I would think the Renaissance Waxed 1 was used or stored rough! So if you have a gun and want to sell it and get top $$$$ then lightly oil and wipe down and never use the Renaissance **** on it!

So $23. wasted, which could have been a box of top defense ammo!

 

[markeb]

Send it to me, I'll pay the shipping.

 

[markyboy57]

Did you let it dry completely and then buff it?
It is a paste wax like auto wax and works the same way.
I have always had good results with it, sorry for your disappointment.

 

[Warren Sear]

User error.

 

[Laketime]

My guess would be that one coat of ren wax was not enough to remove the kiwi shoe care product that you have been using.Thats another issue by itself.Try using a good solvent made for firearms to deep clean the surface,then use the Ren wax.This product and Johnsons wax proballay coat a million dollars worth of collectible firearms here alone.

 

[akdude]

Yes very easy to apply and wipe off, did 8 guns and it dulled the "Finish" on every one no matter what type finish it was and even dull Flat Black and made each gun look used till I then wiped them with a silicone sponge!

This Stuff might be good for Storage but in my opinion it turns a NIB Gun which looks a 10 in to one which looks like a 6 or 7 at best!

Honestly don't know what to do with it? I will stick with my CLP and for long term storage I used for yrs. Outers Choke Lube & Gun Grease!

 

[caddy2507]

Something is wrong with the way you are applying the
product. It's best used on nickel or blued finishes. It
doesn't really belong or improve any of the newer finishes
such as Tenifer, Melonite, Cerakote, etc.

I suspect that your guns have a small amount of oil left
on them (you can't see it) that is giving the wax a cloudy
or "streaky" appearance. You have to degrease the finish
first with something like Gun Scrubber. Fail to do this and
it will not "set up" right.

Then apply one coat, rub it off using a cloth (microfiber
is best) then reapply a second coat. It should shine like
a mirror. Don't wait too long before polishing the wax off
as it will be VERY hard to remove. The label states this
clearly -- no need to wait.

 

[akdude]

My guess would be that one coat of ren wax was not enough to remove the kiwi shoe care product that you have been using.Thats another issue by itself.Try using a good solvent made for firearms to deep clean the surface,then use the Ren wax.This product and Johnsons wax proballay coat a million dollars worth of collectible firearms here alone.

As I had said I wiped all oil off each gun! I always use good gun oil and use a Kiwi Shoe Sponge to quickly give a gun a quick wipe down every so often.

I actually tried the Renaissance wax 2 x on each gun 30 minutes after the 1st time and the only gun finish it did not seem to dull was on my very early 20 yr. old Ruger Super Redhawk which has a type of Gunmetal gray enamel type finish, which always does look shiny!

 

[BruceM]

Operator error-plain & simple.

Bruce

 

[akdude]

A few of the guns I used it on have original Blue finishes from WW2 and the Renaissance wax brought out minute scratches which I never saw using gun oil and also made them look very dull!

Also used it an Original Czech VZ 58 rifle with a baked on Enamel Gray finish which is always shiny/glossy and it didn't dull its finish!

 

[Gunhacker]

Yeah, Ren Wax ruined these guys....

Ren Wax on both the gun and the Birdseye Maple stocks, really brought out the Birdseye figure. Punched up the color case on the CVA 1860 Army black powder revolver. Did equally well on the Marlin 444 wood and bluing.

Have used it for almost 15 years on firearms, knives, wood, leather, etc... the results you got are definitely not typical.

Sure makes me wonder what happened?

 

[akdude]

I am sure it did no "Damage" to any of my guns except it did simply dull the shine on 99% of them, but it did surely (?) add some base protection and the shine came right back as soon as a lubricant was applied!

I had read it should truly bring out the color in "Blued" guns and add a Sheen which it just didn't do also it did not smell as bad/strong as most had said!

 

[joeintexas]

You stated you used CLP on all your guns, good stuff but did you clean it off before you added the Ren wax? If not the wax is just competing with the CLP. I have had very good results using Ren wax if I clean the oil off first. Good luck with this, hope it works out good for you.

 

[akdude]

As stated in 1st post I did wipe any & all CLP from all of the guns, but did not and never do use any degreaser on anything!

 

[olskool]

I have never used Renaissance Wax but I can follow instructions, the folks above that use it has said over and over "degrease the gun"! so if you as stated, "never do use any degreaser on anything!" duh,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

[NewToGuns17]

You can't expect products on anything to work properly if any oil is on the surface. You wouldn't paint metal or add anything adhesive to an oiled surface, it won't work for this either. It's actually not a bad idea to degrease once in a while to get new lubricant into the metal pores and clean the old stuff off as oil gets sticky over time. Same with car paint and it's wax. I wood do as suggested and degrease and apply two coats. Then if it still looks bad, come back and complain about the product. But don't defile it simply because you can't follow instructions.

 

[MichiganScott]

Used it on parked, blued, stainless, polycoated , anodized and several other finishes and to me every gun lost its shine and this **** dulled the finish 100%, it also will show any minute surface scratches mainly on blue and stainless etc.. which you cant and wont see if oil is applied!

So afterwards I used (which I do for light wiping) a Kiwi neutral silicone impregnated Shoe Sponge and immediately the nice looking finishes on all of my Guns came back!

I've never observed a shiny parkerized finish. It could just be me because I've only collected US military rifles for just 40 years.

If the OP likes a shiny silicone finish on his firearms he should just buy a cheap spray can of WD-40 silicone and hose everything down. Much less labor intensive than using Ren Wax or a shoe sponge.

I'm guessing the OP is either trolling or posting tongue in cheek. Why would someone continue to apply a product to varying guns and finishes if they are so dissatisfied with the results on the first gun?

 

[ben_g1]

As stated in 1st post I did wipe any & all CLP from all of the guns, but did not and never do use any degreaser on anything!

Bingo!!!!!

 

[BE Mike]

I cleaned my S&W model 19-3 yesterday, after getting it back from the gunsmith and a shooting session at the range. I had put Eezox on the revolver before it went to the smith for work. Last night I used Hoppe's Elite on the revolver to clean the cylinder holes and barrel, as well as carbon buildup on the frame. After I was done cleaning it, I used an old t-shirt to wipe it down. Since I was going to put the revolver back in the safe for probably an extended period, I put Renaisance Wax on it, using the same old t-shirt. I didn't wait but a few seconds to buff the gun a final time. The old bluing popped, like before. Your unconventional sponge wipe probably is the problem, as well as, using Renaisance Wax on finishes that aren't either blued, nickel or stainless steel. There is way too much evidence over many years extolling the benefits of Renaisance Wax on blued, nickel and stainless firearms to think that your results are valid.

 

[iPac]

You stated you used CLP on all your guns, good stuff but did you clean it off before you added the Ren wax? If not the wax is just competing with the CLP. I have had very good results using Ren wax if I clean the oil off first. Good luck with this, hope it works out good for you.

Honestly, you guys are making WAY too big a deal of the "oil presence". It's probably the shoe sponge silicone if anything.

By the time I'm done cleaning a revolver of mine, the entire outside has either H9 or CLP all over it. The only thing I do to remove that is to wipe clean with cotton cloth. I use absolutely no degreaser, never have never will.

After I'm done wiping with cotton cloth, I then apply RenWax. For my daily carry, I will put a light coat on it, leave it dry, then throw it in my holster. Gives better protection if not buffed off. If I go to the range, I will give the gun a quick microfiber cloth buffing to get the wax coating mostly off, as it will melt and flow during fire.

On any other gun that is getting stored, I clean them the same way, then apply the RenWax the same, but this time after the wax has dried (pretty much instant and it's supposed to be dried before you buff off) I use the microfiber cloth to buff the excess off. What remains is a microcrystalline layer of protection, that just so happens to really enhance TRUE gun finishes, like blue, nickel, CCH. Granted it is used properly. It's not going to do anything to parkerized finishes.

Someone offered to take that crappy wax off your hands OP, if you despise it so much then I would pass it along. Sounds like a shoe sponge is working great for you, so I would stick with that.