Renaissance wax VS Johnson Paste wax

Do you want to use a wax that has been chosen by the finest museums in the world or one that a chemical company produces for wood floors? What are your firearms worth?
Sorry about reviving a dead thread, but this post prompted me to.

I get the intent of the question, it implies one is far nicer than the other... but honestly, my answer is: I'd choose the floor wax.

The "finest museums in the world" are full of items that never get touched or handled, they are inside sterilized glass cases with controlled humidity and UV. Hardwood floors are walked on, heavy things are dragged across them, liquids get spilled on them. Sometimes, pretty nasty liquids.

What are my firearms worth? Enough, that if I were to choose to wax them for protection, I'd choose the product proven to resist dog pee, Coke, beer, and boots.
 
I've used both, but I stay with Johnson's because it's ALOT cheaper and I can get it at Lowes or Home Depot. The both do a good job though.
 
Yellow tint?

I've used both and now I use Johnson. Gives the same protection, doesn't leave a yellow haze, is lots cheaper and I can run down to Lowes or Home Depot and buy a 16 oz can for $7. As others have said, I don't only use it on guns and stocks. I use it on old toys, smoking pipes, antiques, furniture, heck, most anything I want to protect. It goes on easy and comes off easy.

I think your confusing Renaissance Wax with another brand, with all due respect I have applied hundred of coats of Ren wax on BLUED and SS revolvers and never seen a hint of a yellow tint. Unless you overly applied it a fine coat will dry quickly as a light white film, dries in a few minutes then lightly hand buff. No elbow grease needed. Is that simple enough?
 
Has anyone ever stopped to think a 20 year old can of Johnson's may go through some chemical changes. We all know how great those old style paint can lids seal. Geeze what difference does a few bucks make when it comes to protecting a several hundred dollar firearm. Ren wax also works great on old dull stocks.
 
I think your confusing Renaissance Wax with another brand, with all due respect I have applied hundred of coats of Ren wax on BLUED and SS revolvers and never seen a hint of a yellow tint. Unless you overly applied it a fine coat will dry quickly as a light white film, dries in a few minutes then lightly hand buff. No elbow grease needed. Is that simple enough?

I never said Renaissance wax had a yellow tint. I said that Johnsons didn't. I said that in response to what this member said.
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Originally Posted by MichiganScott View Post
I switched over to Renaissance from J&J because the Johnson's dries with an orange cast and the Ren wax dries clear or maybe with a bit of a white haze.

It helps to read the whole thread. That's simple enough for me!
 
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I just wipe mine..

I just wipe mine with a rag and a little gun oil. I've never had a problem, but that doesn't mean others won't.

And thanks DWalt for that thorough run down on pH.

Atmospheric contaminates can combine with moisture to form corrosive substances. We have a paper mill here that put out sulfates and probably some chlorine compounds that got all over peoples cars. If you didn't flush the stuff off THOROUGHLY it would just activate into acid or chlorine compounds and eat the daylights out of cars, especially around windows that that would trap the stuff in the chrome strip. They have cleaned up the output of industrial waste over the years, but it's still there.

Anyway, the bottom line is that there are some atmospheric pollutants that are corrosive to guns and any steel objects.

I have time for a funny. In that same mill, they were spending so much on painting that they decided to use 'weathering' Cor-Ten steel that would form a coating that would resist further corrosion. A memo went out to quit using the stuff because the new construction that they put in ended up looking worse than the structures it replaced.

'Weathering steel' is used for architectural purposes to give that desired 'rusty junkyard' look. An artist was commissioned to put a sculpture in Foley Plaza in Manhattan. He put in a long wall of Cor-Ten steel called "Tilted Arc". It was such a miserable sight that people go tired of it and the city made an artistic power play. A commissioned sculpture that is made for a location is supposed to stay in that location. But after a few years of rusting people hated it so much that they city cut it apart by night and removed it, causing a huge stir in the artistic community. Follow the link and judge for yourself:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tilted_Arc


Interesting to note:

Carbon steel doesn't like vinegar, sodium chloride (salt). If you live near salt water, the air can deposit enough salt on metal objects to cause a problem. One way to tell if a piano has spent time in a house near the beach is that the iron parts on the inside get pretty rusty.
 
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Ren wax is the way to go! It will never yellow or change. I even use it on my plastic-lensed perscription glasses for protection!

You'll never regret buying it.
 
I just read....

That Ren wax was developed by British museum laboratories for the restoring and conservation of antiques. That's a pretty good endorsement. Some take exception in that it has polyethylene in it. Well, it sounds like it would do very well on guns.
 
Has anyone ever stopped to think a 20 year old can of Johnson's may go through some chemical changes. We all know how great those old style paint can lids seal. Geeze what difference does a few bucks make when it comes to protecting a several hundred dollar firearm. Ren wax also works great on old dull stocks.

Well, it has water in it as well-- :rolleyes::p:eek:
 
I just bought a model 17-4 made in 1980. If I am willing to spend hundreds on an old firearm, then I am willing to pay an extra $10 to get a jar of Renaissance Wax instead of floor wax.

This is just my personal preference. I really don't care what any of you guys use. They aren't my guns!
 
You pays your money and you takes your choice.
Some folks have to drive Lexus cars while others do just fine with a Ford.
I drive a Chevy and wax with Johnson's or Mother's Pure Carnauba Gold wax , recently discovered this stuff after using it on my Chevelle.
The model 58 in my avatar is waxed with Mother's, but Johnson's was on it for years.
Gary
 
Since I don't believe in waxing a modern car finish, I'm not about to start waxing my guns. I will use my Johnson's on anything wood and not sealed with some kind of poly.
 
Just curious if the Johnson Floor Wax fans are willing to use it on their new cars as well.Or is there a line you won't cross and buy a wax made for metal.
 
I can't believe Johnson paste wax is still around, I remember that stuff from the 50s.

I don't know if I would have called that "paste" wax. As I recall, it was hard as a rock in the can. Waxing our Buick when I was a kid took my Dad, myself and my 3 siblings all day and we were worn out
 
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I too use the Ren wax. Nothing against Johnson wax. The big jar on Ren wax was under $ 20 and I figure it will last me at least 10 years, no more than it takes. Two bucks a year ain't too shabby. Not saying it's better, it's just what I use. Most of us spend more than that on a seating die.
 
Johnsons is kinda hard to find around here for some reason, so I've always used Minwax.

I've used a LOT of it to protect my cast iron WW tools from rust. You've got to be sure not to introduce silicone into to wood or it will contaminate it and it won't take a finish.

Lately I've switched to carnauba since it goes on easier & buffs easier, and I like the smell. It is slightly abrasive, so I wouldn't use it on a gun.
 
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