Repair scratched up 629-4 .44 Magnum cylinder

[strictlypromenade]

Looking for a way to repair the scratched surface of my 629-4 cylinder. There's a bunch of scratches on the outside of the cylinder. No idea how it happened, but its ugly on an otherwise good condition revolver. Any ideas out there how I can try to repair it without destroying surface/making it worse?

 

[D Brown]

You're going to have to remove a little bit of metal to get those scratches to disappear. Sanding, stoning, whatever you're most comfortable doing.

Then, you will need to acquire some Scotch Brite Type S Ultra Fine Pads, they're the gray ones, may be product number 37448, and very carefully try to match the original finish.

Best of luck to you!

 

[D Brown]

By the way, the Model 629-4 is my very favorite Stainless .44 Magnum!

Model 629-4, 4" Barrel, Shipped 1997

 

[strictlypromenade]

By the way, the Model 629-4 is my very favorite Stainless .44 Magnum!

Model 629-4, 4" Barrel, Shipped 1997

That's a beautiful gun!!

I actually made a typo... mines a 629-6, so ugly lock included :-(
I hope now Smith & Wesson is becoming a separate company they will ditch the lock hole (they'd sell a TON more revolvers if they did).

Thank you for the advice above. I'm apprehensive about working on the thing... don't want to make it worse.. Maybe I should send it to a professional to repair, although don't want to spend hundreds on a revolver I'm planning to trade in for either a 460, 500 or BFR in 450 Mar.

 

[D Brown]

Hi strictlypromenade,

Thank you so much for the compliment on my Model 629-4. I do really like the gun!

So far as the method I described above on restoring your 629-6, there's really nothing difficult about it. Anyone with average mechanical ability should be able to accomplish the task and end up with a vastly better looking revolver than what you have now.

Again, best of luck, whichever way you decide to proceed!

 

[Rule3]

Wet dry sand paper (wet)
Start with 220,or 320 then 400, 600. Then use some Flitz or other metal polish and a rag.(depends on how deep those scratches are on which grit paper to start with. You are not gonna hurt it. Go front to back(length wise) not around
Yes you can use the same grits in 3M pads but paper is easier to find at the hardware


Easy to do

 

[Dieseltech56]

I would be apt to just replace the cylinder and reuse the original extractor. I'm not keen on metal refinishing though

 

[ken158]

Other then the bad scratches, I see some possible issues on the cylinder notches... looks like a best repair would be a new cylinder with a new hand for proper timing to bring it back right. Reusing the ratchet would be of no help.

 

[2152hq]

The scratches on the cylinder are a 20 to 30minute removal thing and bring the polish back to match the rest of the cylinder. You'll never remove enough metal to remove those scratches and get to a dangerous point as far as removing too much.
Imagine sinking a graver into that area and chiseling out a full coverage relief pattern of scroll engraving and maybe inlaying some gold into the metal.
It's commonly done. Those engraving cuts aren't scratches and they don't weaken the piece.

The drag line can be gone too, polished away and a very lightly 'broken & polished edge' to the bolt on the lead edge will help prevent excessive digging itself into the cylinder.
The far side of the notches are a bit battered. Not all that unusual especially on N frames. Carefully peen the metal back into place before you start and clean up any sign of the work with the same polish methods you use to fix the scratches.

Go tight to 400 paper, backed with a file to keep things flat. Don't worry about directional grit lines yet. Infact cross polishing will get you results faster and cleaner than doing the work in all on direction. Plus it will show any heavier grit marks missed so you can go back and clean them up.
Go progressivly up to maybe 800,,what ever you need to get the match. Do that final polish with the paper in the direction wou want the grit lines to go. It'll change them as you want very easily.
Then the final polish is burnished over with the Scotbrite, or a lightly oiled metal surface can be wire wheel burnished to get the same effect.

Timing I don't know, don't have it in hand and it wasn't mentioned unless I missed it. ,,but that's entirely possible! of late..

 

[ACORN]

I'd break out the sandpaper as posted. I have a 66 that was pitted and I sanded the pits out. As said it's not that hard to do. Use a backer for the paper to keep the edges sharp. The hardest part for me was overcoming the pucker factor. If you mess it up real bad you can look to replacing the cyl. As it is a couple bucks worth of sandpaper and a scotch bright and maybe an hour of your time and you should be good. Work slow starting with the coarsest paper then go to the next grit. Easy peazy.
2152 nailed it.
I have a nice heavy barrel 64 I bought that had some bad scratches on the top strap. I took some sandpaper (I think 120) and sand across the scratches and then blended in to the undamaged parts. It's not perfect but not bad.

 

[Bill 76]

Too bad about this ugly damage. For what it's worth, here would be my approach to repair/refinish:
Remove and disassemble the cylinder.
Find or make a mandrel that fits the center hole of the cylinder.
Chuck the mandrel in your cordless drill making sure that the cylinder is locked onto the mandrel. Also, the whole thing needs to run reasonably true.
Work the scratches down starting with 350, 400, 600 and probably 1000 grit "wet or dry" paper. Important here is to tightly wrap the paper around something flat and hard. This will prevent rounding edges and corners.
I wouldn't run the drill too fast.
I would do a final polish using Hippich Simichrome Polish.
Work slowly and carefully
Good luck..

 

[2152hq]

If you're going to spin polish the cylinder and hand hold the abrasive against it, be aware that it will more than likely result in the edges of the flutes becoming dished out .
What ever you use to back up your abrasive as the cylinder is spinning around will dip into and then back out of those flute openings.
Going in will break down the entry edge and coming back out will do the same for that edge on the other side of the flute.

Even polishing a fluted cylinder against a 'hard wheel' by holding the cylinder in both hands and lightly passing it and rolling the surface against the spinning abrasive belt or wheel will get you the same damage.
You must learn to let up on the pressure against the area unsupported against the polishing wheel, belt or abrasive stick while maintaining pressure against the area of the cylinder just to the rear of the flute in order to polish that area nice and flat.
To be able to have the polish even and w/o any washed out edges around the flutes is difficult to do hand held while on a machine.
There's a reason the polishers were the highest paid labor in the Factory.

Touch up polish in one area like this is an easy job with the abrasive backed up with a file or other hard surface. Don't over think it.
Stainless makes it even an easier job to do as there's no metal finishing coloring to do and match.

 

[Rule3]

I would be apt to just replace the cylinder and reuse the original extractor. I'm not keen on metal refinishing though

For a few scratches you would REPLACE a cylinderWhy and for how much $$$?

 

[Dieseltech56]

Post 629-4 cylinders are common. When new ones are available for around $100

 

[spdguns]

Those scratches look pretty deep. I'd use emery cloth ON A SANDING BLOCK of hard rubber. Keep the paper wet with Hoppe's or WD-40, it will cut better. Then I'd use crocus cloth on a block, again keeping it wet. Then finish with coarse rouge on a slow soft buffing wheel. Iv'e had real good luck duplicating the factory "brushed" look using this technique.

 

[strictlypromenade]

Great advice in the posts here. Thank you everyone, great forum we have here.

I went with the new cylinder option and got an unfluted one! (I used to think these were just a gimmick, but recently got an M360 and I actually prefer them now because the cylinder feels more solid in the hand when holding the gun). Also added in a new hand and pin.

 

[BMCM]

Looking for a way to repair the scratched surface of my 629-4 cylinder. There's a bunch of scratches on the outside of the cylinder. No idea how it happened, but its ugly on an otherwise good condition revolver. Any ideas out there how I can try to repair it without destroying surface/making it worse?

Soft jaws in a lathe chuck to hold and spin the cylinder. Abrasive to use is Scotchbrite 7447 maroon pads or cloth backed machinsts abrasive roll. 320-400 grit. With the cylinder spinning at a moderate rate around 4-500 rpm... Hold the abrasive in an arc following the contour of the cylinder and only use light pressure. If you hold the abrasive flat or back it with a flat surface or use a lot of pressure you'll hollow out the flutes. Light pressure holding the contour, be patient and let the abrasive do the work.

M625 cylinder...That one was destined for a satin glass beaded finish so no need to go any further than this on the lathe. Done with 320 grit cloth backed roll 3/4" wide, about a 20 inch long piece I tore off the roll.

Cheers
Bill

 

[6string]

If you are going to trade it in, don't waste any money on the work. The dealer will screw you over anyway and you won't recoup your money.
You'd be better off listing it on the classifieds here with full disclosure, and keep the price somewhere below market value.
You'll still come out way ahead compared to the typical dealer low ball gouging you'd get.

Jim

 

[Rule3]

Great advice in the posts here. Thank you everyone, great forum we have here.

I went with the new cylinder option and got an unfluted one! (I used to think these were just a gimmick, but recently got an M360 and I actually prefer them now because the cylinder feels more solid in the hand when holding the gun). Also added in a new hand and pin.

Well heck you could have just bought a machinist lathe and fixed it for free.

 

[dant]

cyl repair

too bad you spent the money for a 'new ' cylinder, I could have repaired the scratches here in about 10-15 minutes TOPS !!!!
heck you send me the old one and I fix it for your for FREE, you pay the postage...I've polished MORE stainless guns in the past 54 years than one can imagine, let alone count.............