replacement barrels for the M&P 10

Gas block/tube may have been ever so slightly off. Straightened em up, made sure they're nice and snug. Lubed up the bolt like it was in for a wild night between the sheets. Hopefully thats it, if not I may see about lightening the buffer/spring. Regardless, Getting out this weekend to really stretch out her legs. Hopefully pop my 1,000 yd cherry!
 
Then it is short stroking. Either ammo is not making enough pressure, system is leaking, or gas port diameter is too small. That is assuming that the mag locks back the bolt when the action is manually operated

It must have been the gas block being out of alignment. realigned it and lube up the bolt real good and she ran like a champ. Did 1,000 without breaking a sweat. Hit at 1,500 and was all around it at a mile.
 
I have a mp10 barrel, bolt, cam pin and firing pin w spring for sale. 16inch heavy barrel .308 with R5 rifling 1-10 twist and threaded. borescope says it is in great condition. 150.00 417-239-5392 thx
 
Has anyone had luck contacting S&W for a new barrel? I'm considering getting one, 18" lightweight. Mine was having cycling issues with 7.62x51 when it was new, so I opened the gas port from. 068" to .073" (at least that's what the gunsmith claims) but now it appears to be overgassed. I'm getting a ton of cycling and ejection issues. I have tried an XH buffer and spring, new extractor spring, adjustable gas block, and it's still jamming with live rounds and spent brass in the chamber. Very annoying.
So I'm considering trying again with a new barrel.
 
I haven't been back here in a while, but thought I'd leave an update. I followed the general guidance from jrabenius and replaced the S&W barrel with an 18" fluted stainless steel barrel from the fine folks at Juggernaut Tactical, along with one of their nickel-boron coated BCG packages. I went with an adjustable gas block (nearly every AR308 is way over-gassed), and my favorite Troy aluminum hand guard and lots of squid grip inserts. I capped the barrel with a threaded muzzle brake from SilencerCo. I replaced the charging handle with an ambi model, and kept the rifle length buffer tube and Luth-AR stock. I've put a hundred and twenty rounds through the rifle (without playing with the gas block yet). Results? The heavier barrel has brought my group sizes down from 1.5"+ at 100 yards to a consistent 1" or so with decent ammunition (Nosler 165 grain BT Ballistic Tip). Zero FTF or FTE so far with the Nosler .308 commercial 165 grain Ballistic Tip, the 147 grain Federal Surplus FMJ, or the PMC Bronze 147 grain FMJ ammunition.

What's next? I want to try the range again with some Federal Gold 175 grain SMK's. A friend has been telling me it's the most accurate factory load for his M&P 10 - and he's using the same barrel I am. Figure it's worth a shot before screwing around with tuning the gas block.

Was it worth it? That depends on how you frame the question I guess. I'm much happier with an M&P 10 that is DPMS pattern and can use similar DPMS pattern aftermarket components as my other AR308. It is a lot of money - and will probably cost even more if I go ahead with a plan to install a 2 stage Geisselle trigger. The rifle works beautifully, and with a bit more work might make it to a sub-MOA rifle with the application of time, effort and, of course, more money. How you answer that question is going to be up to you.

Regards;

Rick
 

Latest posts

Back
Top