Reproduction Lugers

HOUSTON RICK

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Is anyone building quality reproduction standard Lugers in 9mm for less than the real thing? I cannot afford $3,000 for a gun that I am afraid to shoot for impairing the value on. Do not want the 22 reproductions that I have seen, but if that is all there really is...

Thank you
 
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Thank you, the manufacturer suggested retail price of the Mitchell Lugers is double the real thing. The cost of making Lugers appears to have gone up a few times over the last century.
 
With careful shopping, you can find a perfectly acceptable original P08 in the low four figures ($1000-1500), even a little less if you don't mind mismatched parts. The market trend for such examples seems to be flat or lower over the past few years.
 
I would look for a shooter, they can be had anywhere from 8-12 hundred. You wouldn't want a collectible that you might end up breaking a part. It wouldn't be a collectible anymore, just an expensive shooter. I found the one below at Cabelas a few years ago for about 700. It was missing the sideplate but other than that all numbers were matching.
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Added a sideplate later on from ebay(about 50 bucks) and the result was a pretty good shooter. I have since gotten an armorers sideplate(un-numbered) for it to make it more "correct". It will take some work with a small file to get it fitted.
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You could also look for a 70's era Mauser, they seem to go for he same dollars as a "original" era shooter. Go join the Lugerforum and place a WTB, people looking for shooters have pretty good luck over there and those guys are top notch.
 
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$1000 +/- should buy a very nice shooter Luger. There are still guns available in the $6/700 range but you are getting into reblued, poor bores and modern replacement magazines alot of the time.
Not that the last item is really bad,,the MegGar repro Luger mags work great and I use many of them. Just don't pay orig gun & mag price and be getting a $25 modern repop magazine with it.

30Luger cal Commercial Luger pistols usually go for a bit less than their 9mmL counterparts. Just an ammo supply and cost thing. If you reload who cares, they are fun.

Matched parts,,you pay more obviously. But for a shooter you can go happily along with a phonebook luger and have it shoot just as well.

Standard WW1 and WW2 Germany issue Military Lugers are the most common and a nothing special piece is what those starting prices usualy reflect.
Get into rare variations, Contract pieces from different countrys, some of the Commercial and exported versions,,then you go up in price quickly.,,and all you wanted was a Luger to shoot.

The 70's Mauser remake of the Luger kind of stands in the middle of the collector field. Many still put it in it's own separate catagory from 'original Luger'. Others just see them as a continuation of Mauser mfg'd Luger pistols. It's a collector thing.
In pristine condition and w/box ect,,those do command some pretty good $$. A shooter grade of most any of the common variations made,,and they produced quite a few before production stopped,,can usually be had for a lot less.
But still not a give away price and not much below what those 'original' Lugers in shooter condition can be found in if you hunt for one long enough. Big if.

The stainless steel Mitchell brand Lugers were made at a company called Aimco in Tx. Mitchell was a start up by former Hi-Standard employees and they used Aimco's mfg facilitys to make the parts. Mostly all investment cast parts which brings some instant criticism alone from many.
The early production pistols were pretty nice. But they did have some problems with parts breakage particularly the safety lever and the trigger (both inv cast).
Fit and finish was good, but certainly not up to 1908 DWM standards and that is what they got compared too.
Mitchell got their Luger project bought out by Stoeger after a couple yrs.
Stoeger still owned/owns the 'Luger' trademark in N/American.
Stoeger continued to have Aimco make the pistols but now they were marked 'Luger' on the side,,probably the white shirted few figured their trademarked name would make the pistol a bigger seller. It didn't.

Quality crashed quite a bit under the Stoeger ownership though there are still some nicely fit up guns with their name on them out there. The Stoeger made Mitchell Lugers were hard to service for the simple reason you couldn't get parts from them. A shop I did work for then used to refuse any of the Mitchell/Stoeger Lugers for that reason.

For a shooter, I'd look for a Military mfg'd pistol, Wouldn't worry too much if the bore wasn't pristine (but I realize that is a real deal breaker for some).
Worn orig finish,,expect that. They get that way going thru Wars and such.
I'd stay away from a heavily buffed and reblued pistol. Unless you're in to repair and tinkering with these,,the heavy refinish usually tells you ahead of time of some problems. Not always,,but it better be cheap to allow for the possibility!

Have fun,,everybody needs a Luger.
 
regardless of price, i wouldnt own anything but the real deal. it defeats the purpose in my mind.
 
I recently got a military Luger in very good condition, MOSTELY matching part numbers and 1 mag was also number correct and it came with the holster and mag loader.

Took it to a decent gun show and got it appraised. I told them (3 different dealers that knew they way around Lugers) it was not for sale but interested in price. They all came back with numbers between $1,200 to $1,600. FWIW I made it a point of not telling the dealers what the other dealers quoted to keep it honest.

Its a very good shooter, but like most older German guns it prefers a higher power load to function right!
 
no offense, but mostly matching parts - is that like almost pregnant?

If its mismatched, unless say the grips or maybe a firing pin, it is a shooter and shooter price and most people won't pay above say, $1,000 for a mismatched, but nice looking WW2 luger. And that depends on the shooter, not a collector, as some would pay full price for one with a mismatched firing pin, but the vast majority of folks wouldn't.

Again, no offense, but unless you told them it was mismatched, that sounds like prices a dealer would tell you and most dealers aren't luger guys, or they are always very high, case in point, there was a ratty 1910 for years at the shows in the Philly area for $3500 and their comment was, its a 1910!

Did they take it completely apart or just look it over?
 
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no offense, but mostly matching parts - is that like almost pregnant?

If its mismatched, unless say the grips or maybe a firing pin, it is a shooter and shooter price and most people won't pay above say, $1,000 for a mismatched, but nice looking WW2 luger. And that depends on the shooter, not a collector, as some would pay full price for one with a mismatched firing pin, but the vast majority of folks wouldn't.

Again, no offense, but unless you told them it was mismatched, that sounds like prices a dealer would tell you and most dealers aren't luger guys, or they are always very high, case in point, there was a ratty 1910 for years at the shows in the Philly area for $3500 and their comment was, its a 1910!

Did they take it completely apart or just look it over?

No offense taken. Its a shooter grade, I know that but in very nice condition. Nicer than most shooter grade I have seen.

I purposely brought it to the show to let one military collector look at it. He field stripped it and it had about 80% matching parts. It was Luftwaffe. He remarked about how good of condition it was in.

The other two saw me walking around with the holster and asked me you got anything in that holster? I told them yes and I had XXXXXX look it over. Both other dealers said can I look it it, and what did he tell you . I told them what he said but withheld price, that is how I came up with the 3 numbers in my first post. I have seen Luger's (shooter grade) from about $700 to $ 1200, at different shows and LGSs recently in my area.

FWIW price is just for my knowledge, I have no reason to sell this gun.
 
Simpson's is a great place to shop for a shooter. You can find them cheaper, but unless you're buying in person it's a crapshoot....except at Simpson's. Very detailed descriptions, lots of closeup photos and the sales people on the phone will pull the gun from inventory and describe it to you.

I got mine for $1200 and it was all matching, in very good shape, but had Swedish grips instead of original. I bought a couple of MecGar mags and it shoots just fine.

EXCEPT, don't expect Walther Q5 or 1911 triggers. The trigger on mine is fair at best and I believe that's a trait common to the gun. It ain't for bullseye. That said, it fun to shoot.

Another source to buy is the Luger forum. Really knowledgeable people, reading it is an education you should have before you buy and they have a good buy/sell classified section almost as good as the one here.

Pistole Parabellum

Finally, the advice I got there was look for an S42 1938 Mauser shooter. Better steel than WWI (which tend to be more fragile), not degraded by wartime production problems, and the best value.

Good luck
 

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Bore condition is one consideration most people look at. I bought a beautiful 1939 Mauser 42. It is very accurate and functions flawlessly. The bore is pitted tho. Frosty bore I mean.
 
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OP;

I agree with all said above, especially if only looking for a shooter, and not worried about the collectable version. When I had my 41byf "Black Widow" (collectors term....nothing formal), it was all matching with a set of original black plastic Type 6 grips.

I like to shoot all that I own so I did the same as above, bought some MecGar mags, changed the grips for some well worn wooden ones found on flea-bay and had a great time shooting.

Definitely jump on the Jan Still Axis Power forum it is just like this forum.....you cannot help but learn every time you get on...even if you just lurk and hang out. I began to worry about broken springs, links, the toggle axle and all sorts of "matching number" parts so pulled out my Browning Hi-Power for shooting and put the Luger away. Then I went ahead and sold it on Armslist...had two hits the same day as listing and the first man bought it from out-of-State but moral is I don't think you can go wrong as long as you stick to your perceived price range...you will find it, you can shoot it, if you later worry about it, sell it and at minimum I'm sure you would break even.

Listen to Ed Tinker......I believe he wrote the book on Lugers.:)
 

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I too have a BYF41 with 3 correct magazines, and the original numbered wood stocks, plus the black plastic stocks, and a 41 dated holster with loading tool. I was told it is worth around $3500.00. I won't shoot it as I don't want to take a chance of breaking a numbered part. Have thought about selling it, but every time I take it out of the safe, I look at it, say nope, and put it back in the safe.

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I too have a BYF41 with 3 correct magazines, and the original numbered wood stocks, plus the black plastic stocks, and a 41 dated holster with loading tool. I was told it is worth around $3500.00. I won't shoot it as I don't want to take a chance of breaking a numbered part. Have thought about selling it, but every time I take it out of the safe, I look at it, say nope, and put it back in the safe.

VmfZPy5l.jpg


QHg32YSl.jpg


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Sell it. You are missing all the fun of shooting a Luger out of fear. You can buy a brick and keep it in a box with "Luger" written on the outside. It will be a lot cheaper, and the end result will be the same.:rolleyes:
 
no offense, but mostly matching parts - is that like almost pregnant?

If its mismatched, unless say the grips or maybe a firing pin, it is a shooter and shooter price and most people won't pay above say, $1,000 for a mismatched, but nice looking WW2 luger. And that depends on the shooter, not a collector, as some would pay full price for one with a mismatched firing pin, but the vast majority of folks wouldn't.

Again, no offense, but unless you told them it was mismatched, that sounds like prices a dealer would tell you and most dealers aren't luger guys, or they are always very high, case in point, there was a ratty 1910 for years at the shows in the Philly area for $3500 and their comment was, its a 1910!

Did they take it completely apart or just look it over?

No offense to you Ed, but you are thinking as a collector( which you are, and a very knowledge one, that you surely know I much respect) and not as a shooter.

There are, to me, 3 parts I accept as mismatch, that even if they ruin the value of a Luger as a "collection" piece will not affect it's value as a perfect shooter. Bear in mind that I won't even consider a DWM as a shooter in whatever condition it might be. I'll always go for Mauser made Lugers. 1st part. Rear toggle pin, numbered on Mausers, but it will be better with an unnumbered fitted pin. 3nd part. Firing pin, also numbered, but if you want to get a decent trigger pull, you will need another firing pin well fitted to the sear bar. 3rd part. Disassembling(locking) lever. It's fairly easy to adjust any of those to any particular pistol.

The other parts I prefer to be matching.:D

And there's "almost matching" for you.
 
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Even with today's technology, it is now essentially impossible to create a Luger of C97 Mauser pistol without it costing many thousands of dollars. We cannot match the incredible hand fitting of these old world firearms. The knowledge is lost, much like the recipe for concrete the ancient Romans had that has only recently been rediscovered.

You're better off getting an old one.
 
Even with today's technology, it is now essentially impossible to create a Luger or C96 Mauser pistol without it costing many thousands of dollars. We cannot match the incredible hand fitting of these old world firearms. The knowledge is lost, much like the recipe for concrete the ancient Romans had that has only recently been rediscovered.

You're better off getting an old one.

Fixed it for you.:D
 

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