Restoring a holsters luster.

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I have a tan bianchi holster for my model 60. Decided to "clean it" with a leather cleaner. It did the job, but also removed the beautiful shine that the holster had. Now, it has a dull look which is not too desirable.

Anyone know how I can restore the luster?

Thanks in advance!
 
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Tandy Eco-Flo Leather finish. It comes in high gloss and matt. You want the high gloss.
It will put that factory new finish shine back on it. Clear paste shoe wax will work also, but its not quite as glossy as the factory finish stuff.
Gary.
 
YUP! Black Kiwi works wonders on black holsters. I do my Kramer Horsehide Belt Scabbard holster, belt & ammo dump every few years or whenever it needs it. A little goes a long way and if you use a good quality microfiber cloth to really buff it well, then none of the Kiwi gets on your clothing. :)
 
As some one who has been in the saddle and gun leather business for 30 years I'll put my 2 cent's in ... Tandy products are junk and will not last ..period.
A little trick for you, if you are trying to get the "Shine" back waxes and polish will work .. A trick some use is to take some "mop & Glo" thin it at least 50/50 with water apply it very lightly with a slightly damp sponge, let dry .. repeat ... buff with a soft cloth.
Works wonders.
 
The leather may need some conditioning first with a product like Lexol or Fiebings 4Way. Do NOT use saddle soap or mink oil. I use Tandy Sheen which will put a finish on it that's nice and shiny as well as somewhat durable and a tad weather resistant.

If the leather is stained or otherwise nasty it may require cleaning before the conditioning product. I will defer to someone who knows more about that product mix.

I reserve the paste wax shoe polish to the inside of a non-lined holster. Put it on and then buff out. Makes it "slicker" and somewhat waterproof.
 
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Linseed oil. Apply liberally let it dry and then bath with a terrycloth towel.
 
Holster

I haven't tried it, but Ballistol Gun Cleaner advertises that it is good for renewing leather.:)
 
There are many choices so here is my take on it...

Anyone know how I can restore the luster?

Thanks in advance!

I make holsters and repair leather as a business so this is what I would do:

Tandy has 2 products from Eco-Flo called Super Shene and Satin Shene. For a person who just wants a quick and easy shine they are your best bet. Get the smallest quantity you can it doesn't take much.

The Super Shene is VERY glossy and to match Bianchi's original finish the Satin Shene is probably what you want. If you want the best finish I would use Fiebing's Atom Wax but you will have to buff that with some lambs wool or a shoe brush. Again a little goes a long way but the Atom Wax will match the old finish very closely.

The Eco-Flo products are Acrylic and will not need buffing but you can. They also must be applied with a wool dauber or what I use in the shop is a 1 inch foam paint brush available at WalMart in the paint department. Walmart's are better then Home Depot's in my opinion but that is just opinion.

One other thing... You cleaned it right? Not knowing what was in the cleaner you used and the fact that it took off the finish it sounds like it may have dried out the leather a little. I would carefully inspect the leather for dryness. No worries though but if you pulled some of the tanning oils out you might want to condition the leather first. Then put a finish on it.

Neats Foot oil will work and it is the choice of the older guys in the business but it often darkens the tan. Another choice is Fiebings Aussie conditioner also available at Tandy Leather. My personal choice for conditioning is Lexol and I have seen it in the Walmarts auto section for leather upholstery but I buy mine in bulk. It doesn't seem to darken as much as the other two will and it is a favorite with horse people for their expensive saddles.

Now that I have gone all scientific on you the simplest if the leather is still supple is to just throw the Atom Wax or Satin Shene on it and go. If the Satin Shene does not shine enough just put another coat on it and buff it.

If you would have bought one of my holsters you could have sent it back for a free refinish and only been out the cost of shipping. Archangelleather.com

Hope this helps other as well as you...
 
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A trick some use is to take some "mop & Glo" thin it at least 50/50 with water apply it very lightly with a slightly damp sponge, let dry .. repeat ... buff with a soft cloth.
Works wonders.

Tried that once and I am glad I didn't use it on one of my holsters or it would be in the trash.

And you call Tandy's products trash??? I have used every finish on the market and Tandy's are no better or worst then anyone else's. Angelus' and Fiebing's included. Personally the best I have found is Fiebing's Acrylic but it was only slightly better and more even in the application.

But Mop & Glo has ammonia in it and that is going to do wonders for the tanning oils. Plus getting an even finish with that trick did not work for me. Why not aim the poor guy at a product meant for the purpose? I thought I would save some money once and still got the bottle of Mop & Glo. The wife won't even use it on the floor.
 
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Apply and buff two coats of Kiwi neutral shoe polish. Didn't give the finish you want? Apply Fiebings deglaze and apply two coats of Tandy's Satin Shene with appropriate drying time between coats. Then use Kiwi neutral shoe polish brushed and buffed. Should look brand new.
 
The mop & glow thing was taught to me by an old saddle maker, it has to cut waaay down with water.I have not used it in over 20 years so maybe the stuff has changed since then, the best products in my opinion are tan kote, resoline or good old gum trag. My experience is that Tandy super sheen will eventually peel off of oiled leather. ... Resolene also needs to be cut 50/50 with water.
 
Yeah if oiled an acrylic in not a good choice...

The mop & glow thing was taught to me by an old saddle maker, it has to cut waaay down with water.I have not used it in over 20 years so maybe the stuff has changed since then, the best products in my opinion are tan kote, resoline or good old gum trag. My experience is that Tandy super sheen will eventually peel off of oiled leather. ... Resolene also needs to be cut 50/50 with water.

Resolene and Mop & Glo have a lot in common it would not surprise me that they come from the same manufacturer. The ammonia in them cuts the oil and that is why they hold up on oiled leather. But Neatsfoot oil has a smell that some of my customers have complained of and it takes a few days if not weeks to lighten up in color after application.

The folks suggesting shoe polish don't wear white shirts or pants either. Ever see the butt of someone using shoe polish on a saddle? Leatherwise nothing wrong with it the oils in shoe polish and shoe paste are good for the leather but remember the black marks on your momma's floor on Sunday morning after ya all polished your shoes for church.

Order from Springfield Leather or Tandy online and you can get anything you need in your mailbox in 2 or 3 days. Save an oil well by not driving all over looking for something not made for the purpose.
 
Now that we know how to clean and polish leather, how do we tighten a formed holster for a S/W j frame....
 
shrink for leather, not people

Made a few holsters and belts in my day but never liked the look of my hand stiching and didn't do enough work to warrant a sewing machine. So just do my own work and once in a while for friends. Back to the subject.

I shrink and form holsters by the following method. Spray gun liberally with G96 or Rem Oil. Wrap in at least three layers of plastic wrap. Throughly soak holster in luke warm water. Insert handgun, press and squeeze to form, allow to dry slowly with gun in place. After 24-48 hours you should have a nice snug fitting holster. Then go ahead and apply chosen finish.

Before anyone complains about soaking leather in water think of this. Does rain do any damage to the critter wearing the leather? :rolleyes:
 
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