restoring a S&W 1905

[georgej]

I came into some money recently and have an old 1905 that I had lettered as being manufactured in nickel, and shipped in 1916. The gun has already been refinished. The question is should I bother restoring it, If so, Does anyone know of a gunsmith that would be able to restore the finish and mechanically repair the revolver to like new condition.

 

[georgej]

I came into some money recently and have an old 1905 that I had lettered as being manufactured in nickel, and shipped in 1916. The gun has already been refinished. The question is should I bother restoring it, If so, Does anyone know of a gunsmith that would be able to restore the finish and mechanically repair the revolver to like new condition.

 

[mikepriwer]

Unless there is something important about the gun, it is not worthwhile to
get it refinished. If you want a better-condition gun, sell this one and
buy a better one.

I don't know what is on the gun now - whatever it is has be be stripped off,
and if it is chrome or nickel, that is not free. Then, the surface has to be
prepped, to get rid of any rust, dings, nicks, etc. Looks like the hammer and
trigger would need to be stripped, and re-case-colored. And the grips would
need to be recheckered. Its a minimum of $300, more like $400, for a $150 gun.

If you spent all this money, and then later went to sell the gun, it would only
be a refinished $200 gun - something like that. Does that make sense to you ?

If the gun were a family heirloom, and your grandfather used it in WW1 and your
father in WW2, and you planned to hand it down to you kids, or grandkids, then
economics is not an issue. Otherwise, and I've responded this way so many times
that other know what my response will be, why bother ?

Later, Mike Priwer

 

[Bell Charter Oak Holsters]

I agree with Mike. Unless it has some special significance as a family heirloom, it would make very little sense to restore this otherwise, clean looking shooter. I'd go one step further though. The grips probably would be worth restoration. I'd hold them in reserve in the event you find a better condition 1905 which may not have the correct period grips. Personally, I'd sell the gun and trade up for a better original condition specimen. Best of luck!

 

[DHENRY]

georgej
Mike offers good advice.
To his, I would add this: In an effort to bring back an old gun, a commonly-overlooked area is that of rollstamping, logo and patent-date engraving.
Generally, you're looking at $ 8/per letter of rollstamping for hand-engraving, PLUS lots more for a logo, and even more for any small letters like the patent dates on top of a barrel.
'SMITH & WESSON' = over $ 100 for just one side of the barrel.
Your pre-finish preparation could easily hit $ 400 before the reblue.
It can be done, but it'll be REAL costly!
Don

 

[Onomea]

I've done what you describe. I was trying to find my old post on it, as I went into it in great detail, why I did it and how I did it, but I couldn't turn it up. (I think it was about August 2005, but I can't find it.)

Here's the before picture:

And here's an after:

The guy who did the work is Gene Williams. He's been focusing on rifles recently, and also builds 1911s, but when he sets his mind to a restoration he's pretty good.

I had a lot of fun with the restoration, and learned a lot in the process. It provided me with entertainment for months, and now I have a good lookin' TL shooter. Mine is SN 590, if I recall correctly, and originally shipped in March of 1905.

It makes no financial sense at all, as everyone is telling you, and collectors abhor a refinish, especially a non-factory refinish. But we all spend our money for different reasons, and if in this case you do not spend it as an investment or as a means of impressing others, but simply because it would please you to do so, have at it!

Leaving value aside, as refinished guns are valued at less than a poor condition original finish, and considering only good looks, to buy a TL with an original finish in truly excellent condition would cost much more than a restoration. And then you couldn't shoot it, or at least most people would not want to shoot it and lower its value. So a restored gun would be good lookin' and shootable, as it were.

In my own case, for the pleasure it gave me in process, for what I learned along the way, and the people I met, I am glad that I did it. It was a very worthwhile experience.

Yours must be a 5" tho in the pic it looks shorter than mine, which is also a 5". I was thinking maybe it is a 4 ½" but I can't find that length listed in SCSW. Or is yours the elusive 4"?

 

[georgej]

thank you gentlemen for your honesty. According to my letter it was shipped with a 4 inch barrel nickel finish and checkered walnut grips. I guess I will leave it alone. I have had it for about 6 months and have not fired it yet. Perhaps someone could recommend a good gunsmith in the central Texas are to check it out and tune it up before I shoot it.

 

[mikepriwer]

Arlo

His is a 4" barrel, and they are far from elusive, except from maybe a
couple guys roaming loose in Hawaii !

4" barrels are easy to spot. The rear edge of the forged front base sits
just a tad forward of the front leading edge of extractor lug. A 5" barrel
has an extra inch in that area.

Regards, Mike Priwer

 

[Onomea]

Thanks, Mike, as always, for the education! At the moment I'm in Tokyo, and I assure you that 4" TLs are indeed very, very elusive here. (Then again, so is every other length of every other model as well... Sigh... Good thing I have this forum, my pix, and my books, huh?!

)

 

[DHENRY]

Ed,
I had Gene 'do' this M 1917 for me, and that's how I came to know all that arcane stuff about re-engraving costs.
Was it money well-spent?
Probably not (in the strictest sense of the word)...
BUT it was a great education (yes, Gene should charge more for the entertainment) and NOBODY at the range has ever seen a like-new M 1917 shooter!
Don