Restoring And Shooting Antique Revolvers

JohnHenryD

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Awhile back I posted on here about shooting a 32-44 NM #3 with smokeless 32 S&W longs and someone quoted something about David Chicoine warning about shooting these, etc. the inherent danger, strecthing frames, etc. I went to Chicoine's website and looked at some of the work he does restoring these old guns {which looked great, BTW} and the thought occured to me after looking at some of them which were undoubtedly filled with weld, dressed off, etc. removing metal, how safe would one of these be to shoot now? Does Chicoine issue any warning with these guns as to the fact they have been welded up, etc? Just wondering.
 
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Awhile back I posted on here about shooting a 32-44 NM #3 with smokeless 32 S&W longs and someone quoted something about David Chicoine warning about shooting these, etc. the inherent danger, strecthing frames, etc. I went to Chicoine's website and looked at some of the work he does restoring these old guns {which looked great, BTW} and the thought occured to me after looking at some of them which were undoubtedly filled with weld, dressed off, etc. removing metal, how safe would one of these be to shoot now? Does Chicoine issue any warning with these guns as to the fact they have been welded up, etc? Just wondering.
 
Some people out there are still doing handloads using black powder for the old guns. Probably somewhere out there all the correct data you need is there for the 32-44. I'd be more inclined to look in to black powder if I was determined to shoot some of the obsolete calibers.
 
Does Chicoine issue any warning with these guns as to the fact they have been welded up, etc? Just wondering.
I imagine that that is between Dave and the owner of the gun. You already mentioned his warning about shooting the old ones. Whether or not this information gets passed on if the gun is sold, who knows?

BTW, loading BP is easy. you don't need to weigh it as a simple scoop will work. Just fill the case to the point that the seated bullet crushes the load ever so slightly. In fact, DON'T leave any empty space in the case. If you want to reduce the load, use some kind of filler to fill it the rest of the way up. Corn meal or oatmeal works well. Some folks use kapok or a cotton wad. The disadvantage of BP is that it is dirty and you will need to detail clean the same day. (It doesn't take long to start rust) Also clean your brass right away (hot soapy water) or it will stain badly.
BP substitute lessens some of the problems, but doesn't smell as neat.
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Originally posted by JohnHenryD: Does Chicoine issue any warning with these guns as to the fact they have been welded up, etc? Just wondering.
He's a most Honest Gunsmith and I very sure he has these sorts of conversations with all his customers. Both before and after doing the work he does.

But, once the gun passes out of the hands of that original owner then it becomes just like any other very old gun and should be treated the way it was designed and not used and abused with smokeless powder loads. I seen a number of people using smokeless loads in old Damascus shotgun barrels and other Antique firearms and I've warned my share but some simply won't learn from others and just have to wait for the gun to blow up in their faces. Once someone like that shows up I figure it is time for me to leave the Range or at the very least move as far away as possible.

In my Book, this is something like driving the Wrong Way on the Freeway - just because it can be done, doesn't mean it will have a Happy Ending!

I've talked more than one Customer out of having me do something "Kustom" to their gun simply because just because they like it that way doesn't mean somebody else will. I've even told a few to take their job to someone else because I don't do certain things to any gun no matter how much the Customer offers. The Customer isn't always right - at least, not in the Gunsmithing business.
 

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