Restoring Factory "Brushed Stainless" Finish?

[Robinett_11B]

While searching google I came upon this older thread about stainless refinishing: http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-re...-stainless-refinish-examples-pics-please.html

In it was a post from member 'BUFF' that described my questions pretty succinctly...

What does a S&W factory refinish of a stainless gun look like? The common brush finish, not a bead blast finish.

Does the factory even offer this?

Anybody have one?

I am not too handy and my attempts to "restore" that look are dismal failures!

Does anyone know if S&W or any other refinishing company offers a restoration of the original "brushed" stainless look...found on, say, an early 90's Model 640? I checked S&W's site, but it looks like they only offer either bead blasting or high polish on stainless guns. I may of missed something though.


Thanks.

 

[Smithsrevenge]

While searching google I came upon this older thread about stainless refinishing: http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-re...-stainless-refinish-examples-pics-please.html

In it was a post from member 'BUFF' that described my questions pretty succinctly...



Does anyone know if S&W or any other refinishing company offers a restoration of the original "brushed" stainless look...found on, say, an early 90's Model 640?


Thanks.

I would think they would.

I used to Make fixtures at a factory for cabinets etc.

The process of making brushed steel. I just that. You take steel and you brush it to give it a very fine scratched look.

How we did this was take the steel blanks and take a variable speed grinding wheel. One side had a grinder, which would would make a rough finish with at about 200RPM, then we would flip over to the very VERY thick steel brush side and crank the RPM's up to 350-400 and just tool it in, after that we would take it to another brush, brass and hit it at 550RPM. which would give it a shine, skip the brass if you dont want shiny brushed steel.

The outcome is perfected brushed steel.

The key is when grinding to REALLY grid it to heat up the metal, warm metal takes a better brushed finish than cold metal.

I would imagine you could do it yourself with a dremel or other type of rotary tool. But I'd find the same type of steel that your pistol is made out of, find a junk blank and test the waters before your attacked the weapon.

But to the original question, I dont see why the manufacturer cant re brush it, We used to re brush door handles, knobs, and other fixtures for like a buck a pop

Hope this helps.

 

[Hapworth]

If you want to take your own hand to it, read this link (and the links in the link) -- it's quite doable.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-sm...sh-stainless-without-losing-matte-finish.html

 

[cocojo]

I used a green scotch pad for pot and pans, without soap of course. The thin green pads are in your market and they work fine.

 

[Laketime]

I use a 3 M metal finishing pad ( brown ) it cuts a nice brush to the surface.Then soften it with with a scotch brute pad. The 3 m pad will leave it a frosted look if you don't soften it a bit.

 

[dant]

After polishing out any and all "marks, nicks, etc, we always finished up with any of the 3M Scotchbrite pads, no matter the color, once they are "used" ( new one can be very aggressive if you push or rub too hard)......not much pressure is needed, let the "pad" do the work, and it makes a difference the directions you do polish...try and do it the same pattern ( direction) as the factory does, for a "good" proper job.
Stay away from any and ALL power equipment ,unless you KNOW what you are doing