Restoring some stocks

[tlawler]

I picked up a 686-1 snubby over the weekend and the factory combat stocks on it were a little distressed, so I’ve been reading the stocks refinishing sticky and wanted to try my hand at it. I had acetone and denatured alcohol on hand, so I went ahead and got started. I located an appropriate pan and after removing the stocks, placed them in the pan and covered with acetone. What was left of the finish started flaking away immediately and I began scrubbing with an old toothbrush. Acetone is very volatile and gets cold from the vapor boiling off. I figured that if I could keep it at room temperature or warmer, the acetone would penetrate the old finish faster. I placed the grips in a ziplock sandwich bag and poured the acetone from the pan over it. I then filled the pan with warm water and let the baggie float around in it, sloshing it around periodically. I don’t know if it worked any better, but all of the old finish was gone when I was done. I let them dry and lightly rubbed them down with a green scotchbrite pad, then wiped with denatured alcohol.

The grain was as nice as I thought it would be, but I’ve got some black spotting that detracts from the grain. Especially at the butt where the grain is nicely bookended. Does anyone have an idea of how to get rid of the black spotting? It looks almost like ink.

I’ll pick up the rest of the supplies I need in the next few days and update the thread as I go along. Thanks for looking.

 

[SS336]

I like a “good do it yourself” project. Wish I could help with those black spots.
Seems odd, that they would appear now. Can not tell from the before picture if that was hidden by the original finish.
Will be keeping an eye out for future installments. Good luck.

I just looked again and can see the black spots in the left grip, original picture. Might be part of the grain.

 

[xsexcess]

restoring stocks

The exotic woods often have different chemistry than our typical woods. Could be the dark spots are a response to acid in the sweat of previous owner's hands.

Several approaches to this: 1. live with the color change...doesn't look that bad. Pick an out of the way spot and sand to see how deep it is. Might be able to scrape or lightly sand and get below it.

2. Try to bleach it. Q tips, try to control application to just the affected area, start with a weak oxydizer like hydrogen peroxide and see what works, working your way up to laundry bleach, and eventually......(I don't recommend this for your nice stocks) pool bleach which is VERY strong.

I've had some surprising success removing the blotchy stain from the cheap birch (10/22, Marlin, airgun etc) rifle stocks that usually drives refinishers nuts. I made a paste from granulated pool acid and painted it onto a set of birch Marlin stocks for a 336, and a model 60. Let it soak, re-apply every few hours. It took time, several days, but eventually all the factory stain went away leaving clear white birch wood as a place to start over.

The other 'miracle' bleach is oxyalic acid also known as wood acid. I've used it on iron-oxide based stains in oak with amazing success. Available pre-mixed into water (expires) or as crystals, mix your own (forever).

 

[fleabus101]

As the above member mentioned bleach is very strong and will soften wood if used over a few hrs soak to lighten wood tones. The oxilic acid helps on metal stained
wood areas around metal items in a stock.
It may be either a chemical stain on the wood
or..poss some kinda colored glue mix to fill
in blemished or other damage. You may just
need to work with it without doing more harm than good..
Best..

 

[chief38]

You will have to find out exactly how deep it goes. If it's strictly on the surface then it can be sanded out. If it goes into the grain or is part of the grain - don't even bother. From here I can not tell if your "spots" are a naturally occurring thing or it is indeed stained by something foreign.

 

[2152hq]

I'd use Wood Bleach,,Oxalic Acid,,on the wood.


It will remove dark spots in wood caused by water spotting on the surface and other chemicals and substances like some cleaners.

I usually put the entire grip into a jar of the stuff mixed up and then heated till just warm to the touch in the MicroWave. 30 to 40 seconds does it. Warm the soln in the MW,,then put the grip(s) in it...

The Oxalic Acid will lighten the wood over all as it's Bleach name implies, but in that it will even up the look of the wood. Any marks and spots are removed and then you can easily decide if you want to stain or just finish as it is.
It gives a nice clean starting point for finishing.

I also use it on entire gunstocks that have been stripped of old finish but still have marks and discoloration in the wood from water marks, oil and other unkn solns.

The stuff is safe to use on wood and won't damage the wood itself. No chance of causeing rust to the metal surfaces later on.

Plain laundry bleach will work but the oxidizer in it (sodium Hypochlorite) is a very strong one and can cause rust to metal in contact with the wood soaked in it long after it's use if humidity regenerates it.

People who have washed a musty gun case and put a bit of Laundry Bleach in the wash to get rid of the smell have found out later the hazard of that. A gun placed in the bleach/washed case can become a rust pile if humidity then gets into the mix.

Chlorine bleach doesn't do the wood much good either.

It will work in that it will 'bleach' out spots in the wood. But it's not on my list for gun stocks.

 

[BillBro]

You could also go to a hardware store and buy a product called wood bleach (italic acid) made by a company called Raunbow. Its dried crystalline italic acid. Take a bit and put it on the dampened wood, add a few more drops of water and rub with a cloth, brush or sponge. Stuff works wonders on all manner of stains.

 

[tlawler]

I stopped by Woodcraft on the way home and picked up Tru-Oil and some fine grit sanding pads. I asked about the Oxalic acid and they had never heard of it. I decided to try a 50/50 laundry bleach and water mixture on a couple of the same type of spots on the rear of the stocks to see if it had any effect. It may have lightened them some, but it also lightened the area around the spots. I don’t really want lightened spots with lighter rings around them, so I decided to forgo attempting any lightening of the spots and proceed with refinishing. I masked off the medallions and went over them with 600 grit, then cleaned with denatured alcohol and applied the first coat of Tru-Oil. I’m going to let them dry overnight and tomorrow, then resand with 800, clean, and recoat. I’ll repeat that until I’m satisfied with the finish.
Pictures:
1. Spot that I tried bleaching
2. After smoothing with 600 grit
3. Cleaned with denatured alcohol
4. First coat of Tru-Oil

 

[2152hq]

FWIW,,Oxalic Acid/ Wood Bleach has been in use for probably a century or 2. Used for a coule dozen other things as well.

The common OTC brand you can buy at places like HomeDepot is usually 'Savogran' Wood Bleach.
Comes in crystals that you mix in plain water.
Labled 'Oxalic Acid' right on the front of it.
A couple tbs/disolved per qt of water works well.

Here's another of many that are sold,,
Oxalic Acid Wood Bleach Remove Tough Stains from Wood
This product description also includes some other techniques for removing dark spots from wood, bleaching spots, ect.
May be helpful.



But as far as your project, I don't know if the spots are part of the natural grain of the wood or something else that can't be simply bleached away.
Not everything is that simple.
They are looking good with the simple sanding and one coat of finish already.

 

[oldgranddad]

I think you made a wise decision. Several coats of Tru-oil finish will will overshadow those "beauty" spots.

 

[Vtgw938]

I know you've started to finish them but I'd soak the **** out of them in Acetone. My S&W's only take an hour to four hours, but I have a pair of Colt Python grips that I'm doing and they must be coated with some super urethane because I've had them soaking for days... and days. I still had to go scrap and sand the finish but can't do that with the checkering. I fill up a glass jar with a cover so they are submerged. Hasn't done a thing to the wood except maybe lighten it a bit but probably just finish still coming out of the wood. It will eat any plastic seal on the jar obviously.

 

[tlawler]

I let them dry all day and even set them in the sun for an hour. I sanded with 800 grit, then cleaned with denatured alcohol and coat with Tru-Oil. They only had 600 and 800 at Woodcraft, so I’ll stop by Lowe’s tomorrow and see if they have any 1000 or 1200 for tomorrow’s sanding. Im pretty happy with the results so far. Tru-Oil is extremely easy to work with.

 

[tlawler]

I know you've started to finish them but I'd soak the **** out of them in Acetone. My S&W's only take an hour to four hours, but I have a pair of Colt Python grips that I'm doing and they must be coated with some super urethane because I've had them soaking for days... and days. I still had to go scrap and sand the finish but can't do that with the checkering. I fill up a glass jar with a cover so they are submerged. Hasn't done a thing to the wood except maybe lighten it a bit but probably just finish still coming out of the wood. It will eat any plastic seal on the jar obviously.

The old finish was beginning to flake off. With acetone, it came right off. I did warm up the stocks and acetone in a sealed baggie and I think that helped a lot.

 

[SS336]

Those are coming along nicely. They’ll look great on what ever you put them on.

 

[tlawler]

Picked up some 1000 grit paper and 0000 steel wool. Sanded for about 20 minutes on each stock, cleaned and put on the third coat of Tru-Oil. I’d like to get more of a satin finish, so I’ll let them dry overnight and put them in the sun for a couple hours, then go over them gently with the 4-ought wool. First picture is before I started. They look almost good to go already! Hopefully even better when I’m done.

2. Sanded
3. Cleaned
4. Coat of Tru-Oil

 

[ladder13]

Picked up some 1000 grit paper and 0000 steel wool. Sanded for about 20 minutes on each stock, cleaned and put on the third coat of Tru-Oil. I’d like to get more of a satin finish, so I’ll let them dry overnight and put them in the sun for a couple hours, then go over them gently with the 4-ought wool. First picture is before I started. They look almost good to go already! Hopefully even better when I’m done.

2. Sanded
3. Cleaned
4. Coat of Tru-Oil

They look darn good, nice job.

 

[dmn57]

I've spruced up several sets of K and N frame targets and magnas. Following my standard KISS philosophy, I first apply some type of aerosol stripping agent, usually whatever is least expensive at Home Depot, and let it sit for a day or so. The old finish wipes right off, and I use an old soft-bristled toothbrush for the checkering. I complete the clean-up with a good wipe down with an isopropyl-soaked rag. After a couple days of air drying I hit them with super fine sandpaper or 0000 steel wool and then apply 6 coats of tung oil, followed by 3 coats of an aerosol polyurethane spray. I've been pleased with the results.

The target set from my 14-3 was a bit more challenging. They had splits and a couple of holes drilled in the bottoms (what the heck??). I used the darkest wood putty I could find and then blended it with the grip wood using furniture colored markers prior to the tung oil/poly treatment. Took a number of passes but the end result was worth it.

 

[tlawler]

Here are the finished stocks back on the 686-1 they came on. I went over them with 0000 steel wool to knock the gloss down to a more satiny finish. They’re not perfect by any means, but I’m happy with my efforts. Definitely an improvement over the way I received them. Now to get that rear sight cleaned up and reinstalled and that side plate screw replaced.

 

[skywag]

Good looking!

 

[JH1951]

I dabble in stock refinishing/refurbing from time to time, and let me say "You have done a very nice job."