revolver "action job" idea

[Lou_NC]

I've read the Kuhnhausen book and several others on action work for a Smith revolver. I can't help but wonder whether there might be an effective alternative to some of the tedious stoning (polishing) work.

Would it be possible to disassemble and apply a fine grade of valve grinding compound to the rebound slide bearing surfaces and other areas to be polished, and then dry firing the action for a few hundred (or thousand) rounds? Then strip, clean, lubricate, and re-assemble.

Has this been discussed before? Does it work?

Lou

 

[Lou_NC]

I've read the Kuhnhausen book and several others on action work for a Smith revolver. I can't help but wonder whether there might be an effective alternative to some of the tedious stoning (polishing) work.

Would it be possible to disassemble and apply a fine grade of valve grinding compound to the rebound slide bearing surfaces and other areas to be polished, and then dry firing the action for a few hundred (or thousand) rounds? Then strip, clean, lubricate, and re-assemble.

Has this been discussed before? Does it work?

Lou

 

[john traveler]

The valve grinding compound idea has been hashed around before.

The problem with using quick-and-dirty processes instead of established proven techniques that require patience and a delicate touch is the fine line between "improvement" and "ruination". That valve grinding compound can easily get into the wrong contact points and wear through the case hardening with just a few cycles. Or, excessively wear trigger and hammer axles loose and leave surfaces gritty rough instead of close fitting.

I see the grinding compound method like the so-called "fire lapping" often promoted for smoothing rough barrel bores. I mean, who in their right mind would intentionally fire abrasive coated bullets through a good barrel? It is more likely to do permanent damage than improvement. Sort of a last ditch effort for an otherwise unserviceable barrel.

 

[tomcatt51]

I agree about useing abrasives in the action. Bad idea. There aren't that many areas that require attention and the amount of stoning required is really pretty small. As for fire lapping, I've done it on revolvers where the barrel has had threads that were excessively crushed in the frame. Rugers in particular are notorious for this, S&W much less so but I've seen S&W's with a "jog" in the rifleing because the barrel was over torqued. Last gun I firelapped was a Ruger .44 SBHH. Shot fine 25 yd groups but shot 2 ft 100 yd groups with some perfectly sideways bullet hits. 240 LSWC. Ruger SS barrels are a much tougher alloy than S&W SS barrels. After firelapping (100+ rds w/280 grit) it shot the same loads into 3 1/2" consistently (at 100 yds). Firelapping can be a good thing, but consider if you have a condition that warrants it.

 

[bountyhunter]

If you can find some abrasive compound that is smart enough to know what to grind on and what to stay away from...... until then, I vote no.

Action jobs are not that much work. A couple of hours tops, and I am really fanatical about getting every piece. To do just the rebound slide and frame surfaces, maybe 15 minutes.

 

[herbie1]

I used 1500, 2000 and 3000 grit sandpaper to polish the internals (everything but the SA sear) of my GP100. This can polish to a near mirror-like finish.

1500 and 2000 grits are available at auto parts stores. 3000 grit is available on-line from some knife sharpening supply sights. It is used for Knife sharpening.

Try it on a sample piece of steel, like silverware or something, before you use it on the internals of you gun.

H.

 

[tomcatt51]

Originally posted by bountyhunter:
If you can find some abrasive compound that is smart enough to know what to grind on and what to stay away from...... until then, I vote no.

Max pressure is early in the barrel with fast powders which is how you firelap to remove the constriction where the barrel screws into the frame. Taylor Throating will also cut out the tight (overly crushed) area. The abrasives aren't smart, you have to be.

 

[sceva]

Sounds like the old "toothpaste" action job. Supposedly you fill the action with toothpaste and dry fire letting the mild abrasive smooth things up. It would just make a minty mess in my opinion though.

 

[Stu454]

But the action would be a gleaming white with fresh breath!

 

[bountyhunter]

The detail stripping and 100% cleaning it would take to make sure that garbage is cleaned out of all the nooks and crannies of the action would probably be more work than a proper trigger job.

 

[Wayne M]

Hey sceva, how old are you? I remember this from gun mags in the '70's! Lou: Forget about action jobs except for maybe some spring work. Clean them, lube then, shoot them(a bunch), repeat, repeat....you get the idea. they'll slick right up, you won't wear through any surface hardening, and your gun will last longer than you.

 

[whizbang]

tedious stoning

?????????????

Tedious? A few gentle swipes is enough. Other wise you risk damaging the works.

My 617 had MAJOR burrs on every side of the rebound housing. I think I had it stoned smooth in less that 5 minutes.

Tedious is when you are still at it 4 hours later.

 

[n4zov]

Wayne M is right on. If you shoot an S&W enough, the action will be smooth and you will be a much better marksman! Not a bad combination.

 

[sceva]

Originally posted by Wayne M:
Hey sceva, how old are you? I remember this from gun mags in the '70's! Lou: Forget about action jobs except for maybe some spring work. Clean them, lube then, shoot them(a bunch), repeat, repeat....you get the idea. they'll slick right up, you won't wear through any surface hardening, and your gun will last longer than you.

Mid fifties. Yeah, I remember those articles. When I started working on my own guns I was smart enough to get some real reference books. First Nonte's Pistolsmithing and later the much better Kuhnhausen books.

 

[shovelwrench]

I have some diamond lapping compuond in 1500grit. It feels more like a thick grease. Quite often after stoning and deburing I'll put ever so slight an amout of it on the part I want to work in. It does'nt creep around the gun, just wears where you want ever so slowly. I'll use the gun or dry fire for a while and wash it out good. Works amazingly well.

 

[Stillwater788]

Originally posted by whizbang:

tedious stoning

?????????????

Tedious? A few gentle swipes is enough. Other wise you risk damaging the works.

My 617 had MAJOR burrs on every side of the rebound housing. I think I had it stoned smooth in less that 5 minutes.

Tedious is when you are still at it 4 hours later.

+1 I had never taken the sideplate off a revo before I got Jerry's Trigger Job DVD. Including assembly and disassembly, it took me about 2 hours to do my first action job - with excellent results. I can do one in about 45 minutes now. It is a simple, straightforward job and all you need is a good quality fine stone that will run you around $15.

 

[magnum12pm]

I like to use turtle wax light rubbing compound(it comes in liquid form in squirt bottle) on the rebound slide with a cotton buffer wheel on the dremel just to make it smooth as silk. I repeat cotton buffer wheel nothing else on a dremel. Before anyone blasts me to the moon remember this product is used on car paint, no way it will harm hardened steel lock work. Just slow and precise is the order of the day. I have done it to all my revolvers they are smooth pulling triggers that usually seem like less pull weight than the gauge says.

 

[bountyhunter]

Originally posted by magnum12pm:
I like to use turtle wax light rubbing compound(it comes in liquid form in squirt bottle) on the rebound slide with a cotton buffer wheel on the dremel just to make it smooth as silk. I repeat cotton buffer wheel nothing else on a dremel. Before anyone blasts me to the moon remember this product is used on car paint, no way it will harm hardened steel lock work. Just slow and precise is the order of the day. I have done it to all my revolvers they are smooth pulling triggers that usually seem like less pull weight than the gauge says.

It won't hurt anything. I use auto chrome polish on parts I want to mirror shine, but I suspect any polishing done to steel that is finer than 600# sandpaper is purely cosmetic.

 

[magnum12pm]

Your most likely right but it sure feels smoother than when I started.

Originally posted by bountyhunter:

Originally posted by magnum12pm:
I like to use turtle wax light rubbing compound(it comes in liquid form in squirt bottle) on the rebound slide with a cotton buffer wheel on the dremel just to make it smooth as silk. I repeat cotton buffer wheel nothing else on a dremel. Before anyone blasts me to the moon remember this product is used on car paint, no way it will harm hardened steel lock work. Just slow and precise is the order of the day. I have done it to all my revolvers they are smooth pulling triggers that usually seem like less pull weight than the gauge says.

It won't hurt anything. I use auto chrome polish on parts I want to mirror shine, but I suspect any polishing done to steel that is finer than 600# sandpaper is purely cosmetic.

 

[wheelgun1958]

Originally posted by Stu454:
But the action would be a gleaming white with fresh breath!

It might even get rid of 'cavities.'