Revolver grease?

45NUTT

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Do you use a specific grease/lube on the hammer & trigger springs? I took the side plate off because it felt a little gummy and cleaned up white grease. What do you recommend using? I know there should be some lubricant there, but don't have anything other than some grease for fishing reels.
 
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I don't use any grease what so ever on any of my revolvers. I get them clean then put a tiny bit of synthetic motor oil on the hammer and trigger studs and bosses, the sides of the rebound slide, the yoke tube and call it good. Grease just attracts dirt and debris and solidifies. Plus, it gets way stiffer in the cold.

The rails of a Semi OK
 
I've used a variety, can't say I can tell a lot of difference. As to grease I've mostly used either the old Gunslick which I think is graphite based, or Lubriplate which is white lithium grease. I've also used Mobil 1 motor oil, which seems to work fine.
 
I have never used grease on revolvers that possibly would be used in cold weather. I have recently discovered an oil that works very well. When I first used it I immediately noticed a reduction in double-action trigger pull, which really amazed me! It also noticeably reduces friction between the frame and slide for semi-automatics Obviously it does nothing for recoil spring tension/racking pressure. The product is "Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil". This is a noticeably heavy weight oil.I usually do not recommend products because there are so many good ones, but I do highly recommend this oil by Lucas as it seems to live up to the makers claims for it!
 
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Factories often use grease in new revolver assembly. That’s why some shooters will open up a new revolver and thoroughly clean it and use new lubes in reassembly. I’ve seen many revolvers…and firearms in general…see the factory grease harden and gum up the action from sitting and lack of use.
 
The only place I use grease in a revolver is the spring inside the rebound slide and only because the Kuhnhausen S&W shop manual says to grease that spring when re-assembling. I use Brownells Action Magic which is either graphite or moly based (maybe both?) and synthetic so it should take more decades than I have left on the planet to dry out / harden up. Greasing a spring that slides back and forth in a roughly machined tunnel makes sense to me. Elsewhere under the hood a bare minimum of quality synthetic oil is all that's needed, trigger stud, hammer stud. Too much oil is a dirt and grit magnet.
 
Go back to steelslaver's post---#3. Heed his words! They're the same, only different as the factory's---especially these words: "a tiny bit".

I know those of you governed by the motto of "Some's good, more's better, and too much is just right!" will ignore his words of wisdom-----especially those who clean and lubricate their revolvers with the contents of spray cans, and liberal amounts of oil applied through the hole in front of a cocked hammer. I reckon that's from The Manual of Quick and Dirty Gun Care.

I've looked high and low to find where that procedure is recommended, and have come up empty. I did find the factory's recommendation---goes like this: "-------and this is best accomplished by removing the sideplate------."

They go on to tell you where the sideplate is, and how to remove it "without marring the frame". I thought that was thoughtful of them.

Ralph Tremaine

As an aside, they also say a few words about the oil: "Only a small amount of lubricant is necessary and this should be a light, non-gumming oil." Nary a word about grease---probably because it's already gummed.
 
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Grease in a revolver? No, I reserve that for the slide and receiver rails and locking block/cams on semi-auto pistols. For revolvers, a light oil is much better and it takes remarkably little oil to make them work properly.
 
I don't know why, but I like to put a little dab of grease on that part of the yoke that the cylinder spins on. But I can't defend it as necessary. Or logical. But I do it anyway. I never use grease on internals.

Somebody once told me grease is for things that slide, oil is for things that spin. But I can think of plenty of exceptions that exist in the mechanical world.

When I use grease I use Gunwerkz Ultra Gun Lube. Because I order other stuff from them and I got it while I was placing an order. My gun grease usually goes bad before I can use it up.
 
Lucas ... Red-N-Tacky in the automotive section... $6.98 - 14 ounces ... or

Lucas ... Extreme Duty Gun Grease ... $12.99 - 1 ounce .

They might be the same stuff ... but
You Pays your money and takes your pick .
Lucas Red-N-Tacky has worked quite well for 40 years !
Gary
 
I used to use Pistolsmith Chip McCormick's graphite grease which is no longer available. Now I use Ponsness Warren STOS.
 
A gun store owner once told me he though the best gun lube was S&W's brand which he said was no longer made. I had a tube or two years ago that I was given when I attended S&W armorer school. I may still have some...some stuff is still packed away from our relocating.
 
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