Revolver questions

sniper

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I'd like to purchase a Smith& Wesson revolver...it's been too long since I owned one. I still have fond memories of my first Model 19..Young and dumb, I sold it to chase a Dan Wesson, which was also a good revolver.
I think I would like a 3" model 19 or 66, realizing there ain't no such animal among the newer offerings, and looking at the prices of the older guns, which can exceed the prices of the newer ones, wonder if the new ones, even with the lock opening, might be a better purchase.
A fellow on Youtube, GunBlue 490, Was a police armorer, sings the praises of the new Model 19s, compared to the older ones. I wonder if his enthusiasm extends to the new model 66?
Is it just me, or do the new 19 and 66 look, for want of a better description, "fatter" by a little than the older ones?
Guidance and opinions, please!
Thank you!
 
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Depends on why you want one.

A lot of the regular contributors here like the look and feel of the older revolvers, AND the idea that a craftsman at Smith & Wesson assembled it. I like knowing that some law enforcement officer carried and depending on my (now 50-year-old) Model 66, even though the same person would be now carry a plastic framed Glock today. Most people choose not to remember Model 19's and 66's had a few quality problems when they were new (infamous gas ring, eroded or cracked forcing cones, a few cracked frames, things that led to the development of the L-frame).

A modern K- or L-frame shoots just as well, AND you can send it to the factory for free (or almost) service. There are a few duds and quality issues, and some people don't like the look of the two-piece barrels, let alone the key hole, but you don't really think about those things while sending some lead downrange, :D;)

I suspect the new revolvers will never reach the same level of collectibility, or long-term value, but what's your goal? Fun at the range, or starting a collection? Are you going to shoot it, or just take it out now and then and look at it?
 
I have only handled one , never shot one. But the new model 66s have a 2.75 inch barrel so should have full empty case ejection. Depending on what you want it for. As a good all around hard use, accurate revolver I have to agree a 686 would be a good choice. It would not be my choice for an EDC gun but to have 1 revolver to shoot that would be a good choice.
 
Go over to the Smith and Wesson home page and see what model 19, 66 and 686 are currently available. Personally I think the 686/586 is the way to go for a range and home defense gun.
 
I own two 586's , a first year classic series six inch and a current production classic series in four inch.They are a little beefier than the originals. Not a fan of the hollow trigger from behind. and the toyish sound when dry firing it.Also both guns being years apart seem to have a less vibrant color tone in the red insert compared to the older guns.other than the lock they are fine sturdy revolvers.
 
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Watch the guns for sale classified ads on this website. You will find the K and L frame revolvers that are not in collector condition for very good prices. Working through a good ffl for shipping will only cost you about $30 and is vey little hassle. There is a section on things to look for in a seller on the forum also. I have never been unhappy with a purchase here.

You can also post in the want to buy section but a little more caution is necessary as this is an open forum. There are instructions on that also.
 
The new revolvers have been beefed up a little to better survive a lot of 125 gr. 357 Magnum shooting and just more 357 magnum shooting in general .
An old model 19 will not last the round count with magnum ammo the new ones will .
Back in the day you shot and practiced with 38 Special and carried 357 Magnum ... maybe shooting 5-10 rounds out of the box just to experience it .
Nowdays it's all shooting with 357 Magnum ... so you want the beefier build to hold up over time .
Gary
 
I have only handled one , never shot one. But the new model 66s have a 2.75 inch barrel so should have full empty case ejection. Depending on what you want it for. As a good all around hard use, accurate revolver I have to agree a 686 would be a good choice. It would not be my choice for an EDC gun but to have 1 revolver to shoot that would be a good choice.

One of the benefits of 3" over 2-3/4" is a full length ejector rod.
 
One of the benefits of 3" over 2-3/4" is a full length ejector rod.

I see no meaningful difference between the ejection stroke on my 2-3/4" M66-8 and my 5" 686-6, 327TRR8, or 627-5PC.

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OP, if you like a K-frame there's nothing wrong with the new model 66-8.

It is plenty strong to shoot all of the hot loads you can handle.

I love my M686 but the smaller framed 66 would be my choice for a more concealable revolver.

If you go with a longer barrel (than the snubbie) then definitely go with a M686.

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My personal opinion would be of you are intending to carry this revolver a whole lot and shoot it with full Magnum's a little, then the M19/66 would be the correct choice. It is a K Frame Revolver and not meant for a constant diet of Magnums. With 38 special ammo it will last a lifetime. An ocassional cylinder full of 158 grain Magnums is OK.

If you intend or desire to shoot a steady diet of Magnum ammunition, then get a heavier framed gun such as a M586/686, M27, M28. Those models are truly meant for a constant barrage of Magnum ammo and there should not be any issues.

If you intend on buying a vintage S&W (my favorites) please make SURE you know exactly how to check one out! If you are not very well acquainted with doing so, bring someone with you who is! This is ESPECIALLY important if you are buying a vintage M19/66 as these guns can be worn, out of spec. stretched or damaged by heavy firing of light weight Magnum ammo. Speaking of ammo weights, my suggestion is that if you do but a M19/66 then only use 158 grain weight magnums out of it. Lighter bullets (110 and 125 grain bullets) can and do cause havoc in the forcing cone area. Once that is cracked, compromised or damaged S&W will not repair or work on those vintage models so you are in a tough spot.

Your do-diligence will go a long way in purchasing a vintage S&W.
 
It is my understanding that the new Model 19/66 has more in common wiht the L-frame in terms of frame size than the originals, thus providing more room for a full forcing cone that is otherwise subject to cracking once in a while in the older guns. If you're looking for a shooter and want to shoot the hot 110-125 grain magnums that were blamed for causing said forcing cone cracks, then get the new model. I have only handled a new 66, and that has been a few years back. What I noted was that whatever S&W did to the action made it seem like it has a shorter trigger stroke and cycle than the original Ks. I have three pre-lock Ks, including a 66-1 and a 19-5 with action jobs performed, but both have observably longer trigger strokes than the new renditions - or it is just me imagining. I can't see anything wrong with a 2.75 inch 19 or 66, especially considering a three inch 19 or 66 is considerably rare and the 2.5s are up there in price.
 
I'd like to purchase a Smith& Wesson revolver...it's been too long since I owned one. I still have fond memories of my first Model 19..Young and dumb, I sold it to chase a Dan Wesson, which was also a good revolver.
I think I would like a 3" model 19 or 66, realizing there ain't no such animal among the newer offerings, and looking at the prices of the older guns, which can exceed the prices of the newer ones, wonder if the new ones, even with the lock opening, might be a better purchase.
A fellow on Youtube, GunBlue 490, Was a police armorer, sings the praises of the new Model 19s, compared to the older ones. I wonder if his enthusiasm extends to the new model 66?
Is it just me, or do the new 19 and 66 look, for want of a better description, "fatter" by a little than the older ones?
Guidance and opinions, please!
Thank you!

Why not just buy an older 19? I much prefer vintage Smiths to the new ones.
 
Go for a new 66. But inspect it well before buying it. I've seen a couple on dealer shelves where the barrel was cocked and/or the locking ball on the crane engaged nothing. I like the idea of the new lockup if done correctly. Other than the stupid lock hole and inconsistent craftmanship I like the new 19 and 66. I also love my older 4" and 6" 686s, other than the full underlug. If I knew of a competent smith I'd consider having the excessive underlug milled off. I wonder how much weight they would lose. Obviously the 6" would lose more. I also loved my old 66. It was my first duty gun and I shot it very well, but, assuming proper quality control, I think I like the new ones better (less the stupid hole).
 
PS:

It is my understanding that the new Model 19/66 has more in common wiht the L-frame in terms of frame size than the originals, thus providing more room for a full forcing cone that is otherwise subject to cracking once in a while in the older guns.

Definitely a step up in strength at the forcing cone & yoke for the new 66-8 over the old models.

I often re-chamfer the factory forcing cones if I don't like how they look. My 66-8 & 686-6 where ones I did & took pictures of.

As you can see, they have a similar beefy look.

PS: the M66-8 actually has a longer cylinder than the 686-8 so your cartridges can have a slightly longer COAL", which is good when handloading the Keith style 158gr or heavier bullets.

M66-8: cylinder: 1.669"L x 1.447"W

M686-6: cylinder: 1.625"L x 1.555"W

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M66-8, 2-3/4"
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M686-6+ TALO, 5"
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I own a few S&W revolvers. If a Model 28 Highway Patrolman meets your needs, it might be a good way to go. They have historically been priced lower than its peers and every bit as good - even if it does not look like a Colt. Just a suggestion.
 

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