I have purchased 2 new J frames through online dealer(GofG). One is a model 640 and the other is a 638. The rifling on both revolvers is very faint. I've sent the 640 back to S&W for new barrel. It wasn't any better than the first upon return. Just wondering what is going on. Anybody else experience this on new purchase? Thanks.
Rifling in new snubbies
- Thread starter Sladane
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gunnails
Member
I think it's normal as I have 2" 637 that has a different look to it's rifling then my 686. But the gun shoots straight, at least up to 25 feet.
Hows your gun shoot?
Hows your gun shoot?
I bought a 3" Model 60 which is the same way ... looks like some weird shiny/twisty effect when looking down the barrel. Way diffferent from any of my other S&W revolvers. There have been other recent posts with similar observations.
Mine shoots fine, so I haven't worried about it.
Mine shoots fine, so I haven't worried about it.
Pisgah
Member
OLDSTER
Member
S&W has changed to "polygonal" rifling in some snubs( at least those I'm aware of). My 360J exhibits "polygonal", but neither my 617 nor 442 have it. Polygonal is also used in Glock, Kahr, and I'm sure others as well
shoot back
Member
I just sent my 4" 686 back to smith and wesson with the same trouble. Mine would shoot about 12" to the left with 158 grn. at 25 yards. Could hardly see any rifling in the barrel. Shoots like a smooth bore. Hope it comes back with a barrel that has some rifling in it.
Targets Guy
US Veteran
I've been wondering about my Model 60-15. I'll have to take a look.
Saw the same thing in a Colt Detective Special at the LGS. Looks like a smooth bore, maybe a hint of polygonal rifling.
I just looked at my 431PD, which shipped April 2016, and it has that nice distinct cut rifling that my older S&W's all have. It is a two piece barrel current mfg. so I am wondering why, (it's possible the barrel is 10+ years old, as this model was discontinued in 2005).
AZretired
Member
First, shoot the 638. Then shoot both with jacketed & lead bullets and check accuracy before you judge too harshly.
Second I just compared my 642-1 (made in 2014) and my 638 (made in'08) with my M10-5 (made in '73) and my 65-2 (made in '79) and while the 642 & 638 seem to very slightly shallower rifling, it certainly does not affect accuracy. Both are capable of shooting 2-3" groups at 25 yards and have never shown any tendency to key hole rounds.
What, we're suppose to actually shoot these things'? 
Kidding aside, I wish that were the only issue with the newer stock. I just purchased a new 48 Classic and never mind the rifling as it arrived with an over/under clocked barrel. Smith' made it good and then some. Shoots very well with 40gr so I trust the newer rifling, I just hate the hole.
Kidding aside, I wish that were the only issue with the newer stock. I just purchased a new 48 Classic and never mind the rifling as it arrived with an over/under clocked barrel. Smith' made it good and then some. Shoots very well with 40gr so I trust the newer rifling, I just hate the hole.
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Most modern Smith and Wesson revolvers have barrels that were ECM rifled, they are not polygonal
This is not new, it has been going on for many years now
Visually ECM rifling is much shallower than cut rifling. On the plus side ECM rifling has far less of a chance of leading due to the much smoother bore.
This is not new, it has been going on for many years now
Visually ECM rifling is much shallower than cut rifling. On the plus side ECM rifling has far less of a chance of leading due to the much smoother bore.
Pef
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How did the 640 shoot before you sent it back?
It shot okay but the swaging cone on the start of the rifling was gouged way deep in the barrel and was only on one side. The barrel they sent back shoots okay. Like many of the posts said above you're not shooting long range (25yrds +). Shooting plated 158's and 125's. Got some regular jacketed on the way. Will do a comparison when I get them loaded up.
scooter123
Member
My model 620 purchased new in 2008 features an ECM rifled barrel. It also features a 2 piece Tensioned barrel. The following picture is a result of shooting it with a 1.75 X Handgun scope at 50 yards (150 feet). The group of 4 hits on the left were from the first 5 rounds fired and the flyer way right was a result of my snatching the trigger on the 4th shot. The two on the right were the last 2 rounds of ammunition I had with me and were the result of what I later found to be a scope mount that shot loose from the rail.
So, it took me 6 weeks of practicing twice a week to refine my trigger skills to the point where I was able to shoot a 7/8 inch group at 50 yards. My goal was to see exactly what my 620 is capable of and I feel I failed in that attempt. IMO my 620 is probably capable of 1/2 inch or smaller groups at 50 yards but I just don't have the patience to put in the many hours it would take to get to the point where I could do that. Fact is that after achieving this group I took that scope off my 620 and today am perfectly happy to shoot 4 to 5 inch groups with it in double action at 30 feet with a 1/4 second split time.
So, it took me 6 weeks of practicing twice a week to refine my trigger skills to the point where I was able to shoot a 7/8 inch group at 50 yards. My goal was to see exactly what my 620 is capable of and I feel I failed in that attempt. IMO my 620 is probably capable of 1/2 inch or smaller groups at 50 yards but I just don't have the patience to put in the many hours it would take to get to the point where I could do that. Fact is that after achieving this group I took that scope off my 620 and today am perfectly happy to shoot 4 to 5 inch groups with it in double action at 30 feet with a 1/4 second split time.
